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http://www.highlandhorn.com/bone-gunsmithing-and-knifemakers-materials/10.htm

Yes, its got some imperfections so I get to keep it!!

One of these, the small blade is really useful.

It would depend but most stick tangs are quite narrow so a lot harder to create a makeshift handle. But a well made stick tang knife would be very strong for example if the tang was quite wide and thick and a very strong wood or plastic handle was used. But if I was stuck in the middle of...

Both are good from the strength point of view but the problem with stick tangs is you can't tell by looking at it if the tang has the thickness of a piece of spaghetti or its thick and robust. Also stick tangs for heavy use knives need a strong ferrule or metal collar for the handle to stop the...

My first go at this pattern. The little sheepfoot blade is surprisingly useful for sharpening pencils and opening packages. The long blade is good for boning chicken and slicing oranges Sits very easily in the pocket too.

I am about to put some blades for tempering, they got hardened this afternoon. Air hardening steel is much less messy than oil hardening.

Thanks guys, been carrying around today and refinished it to a smoother blade finish. Reminds me of an old knife I had as a kid. It was 99p in 1979 and kids could buy knives!

Rustic bone handled folder with O1 steel blade and thick brass liners. Its got the base of a Nato 7.62mm cartridge case for shield. Just under 3 inch long blade. I finished it with a fairly rough finish similar to other "primitive" or "frontier" style knives.

thanks, they are hollow ground on a big 20 inch diameter wheel so the hollow is quite shallow but it keeps the edge thickness fairly constant so you can sharpen it quite a bit without the edge getting too thick.

Yes, they are production models thanks

These are my new Explorer models. The one on top is the Explorer Standard and the larger one is the Explorer Max. Both knives are intended for all types of outdoor use from splitting wood for kindling to cutting veg for food. The large guard makes it much safer when used in cold wet conditions...

Nice bit of kit, is it variable speed?

Evenheat and Paragon both have distributors in the UK, they make purpose built knife kilns but like most kilns can be pricy. You also need liquid nitrogen or dry ice to temper RWL 34

http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Boxwood_Squares_26-35mm-p1.html

Its a timber race http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?72443-A-vintage-timber-Race-knife Its used to mark wooden objects like barrels and boxes especially for transportation.

Bone is quite easy to work, a bit smelly though. You can get stabilized giraffe bone or camel bone, just google for sources. Bone has tiny pores so dirt can lodge in them and make it look spotty. During finishing, coat with very thin super glue to fill in the pores.

800c soak for 5 minutes.

Its good to know they are being used.

Just had a look at Guy's site, its really good. www.shingcrafts.com