Bowdrill - what level are you?

[Col_M]

Not managed to get it to work yet, I've only tried once though and I just had oak to play with.

What sort of tension do you need in the cord for the bow? I'm not if it was too tight last time as it was tricky to get the drill in.

 

[Niels]

If I can just throw in a tip, if your near the sea, pop some seaweed/-lettuce into the socket.
It will give you the most slimy stuff in the hole and it will polish it almost immidiately. As for the tension it should be hard to get the drill in.
You shouldn't be able to (with your hand) make the drill travel along the cord without it spinning.

Oh, and don't forget, keep both your arms almost straight for good form

 

[cave_dweller]

Oh, and don't forget, keep both your arms almost straight for good form

Now that's intrigued me! I've only ever done it with my 'bowing arm' staight(ish), while the 'drill holding arm' is bent around my forward leg with my wrist locked. I can't picture how I'd manage to keep that arm straight. What am I missing?

 

[Niels]

Now that's intrigued me! I've only ever done it with my 'bowing arm' staight(ish), while the 'drill holding arm' is bent around my forward leg with my wrist locked. I can't picture how I'd manage to keep that arm straight. What am I missing?

Yes that's what I ment like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PlxujVPiN6U
See how the lady's arm is almost straight?
More straight than bent but not exactly straight.

 

[DaveBoon]

Yes that's what I ment like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PlxujVPiN6U.

Thanks for the advice - that video is great! I love the principle that if you can't do it within 45 seconds to a minute, that your technique needs tweaking. Using the guidance from the video and the suggestions of sand/grit to add friction (I actually used coal dust), I almost got an ember. I would probably have succeeded had the wife not complained that she couldn't hear the TV over the sound of the squealing wood .... maybe I'll have to practise outside!

 

[j111]

Thanks for the advice - that video is great! I love the principle that if you can't do it within 45 seconds to a minute, that your technique needs tweaking. Using the guidance from the video and the suggestions of sand/grit to add friction (I actually used coal dust), I almost got an ember. I would probably have succeeded had the wife not complained that she couldn't hear the TV over the sound of the squealing wood .... maybe I'll have to practise outside!

Push down harder if it's squeeling
Defo outside, it should be making loads of choking smoke.

 

[DaveBoon]

Push down harder if it's squeeling
Defo outside, it should be making loads of choking smoke.

Thanks - will give it another go over the weekend

 

[Niels]

+1 on pressing harder, when I made my first ember I told this to myself and I immediately got an ember.

 

[DaveBoon]

I'm finding that the cord used is becoming loose & slipping a lot. I've been using a bootlace. I've tried using a couple of laces together, tried holding the lace along with the bow to make it tighter etc. What's the best cord to use in people's opinion? Also, would leaving the bark on the majority of the drill help prevent slippage? Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

 

[Niels]

I'm finding that the cord used is becoming loose & slipping a lot. I've been using a bootlace. I've tried using a couple of laces together, tried holding the lace along with the bow to make it tighter etc. What's the best cord to use in people's opinion? Also, would leaving the bark on the majority of the drill help prevent slippage? Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

Slipping is due to either to much downward pressure or not tight enough cordage, probably the last one. The best cordage is easily paracord IMHO. You don't want to have to worry about both your technique and your cordage breaking if you've never made an ember before.

 

[DaveBoon]

The best cordage is easily paracord IMHO.

Thanks - have ordered some paracord. Hopefully that will help. So close, it's frustrating when I'm just starting to get smoke and then the drill starts slipping!

 

[leon-1]

The best cordage is easily paracord IMHO. You don't want to have to worry about both your technique and your cordage breaking if you've never made an ember before.

There are loads of different bits of cordage you can use. Proper Mil-C-5040 type 3 paracord is very good, but beware of the cheap stuff and there's a lot of it. 4mm climbing accessory and lawnmower pull cord both work as well as Paracord does.

When bowing try to keep your bow level, this should stop the bow string from running up and down the drill. Not too bad a problem if you're using a longer drill, but very important if you're using a shorter drill.

Squeaking can be caused by a number of things, moisture in your set, carbon build up / polishing and lack of pressure. All of these can stop you from getting a coal. Believe it or not even the amount of moisture in the air will effect how quickly you produce a coal.

 

[DaveBoon]

With a combination of paracord and changing the drill to a new piece with bark on (to reduce slippage) I've finally achieved level 3!

 

[Niels]

Well done, I´m really happy for you
Good luck with the next levels!

 

[Swallow]

Level	Drill set	Cordage	Weather
1	Bought	Synthetic	Dry
2	Bought	Synthetic	Wet
3	Made in advance	Synthetic	Dry
4	Made in advance	Synthetic	Wet
5	Made in advance	Natural	Dry
6	Made in advance	Natural	Wet
7	Foraged	Synthetic	Dry

Ummm. What is the difference between 3 & 7? And what score do you get if you forage in the local woods in the summer and then put it together in the back garden and get an ember?

 

[DaveBoon]

Ummm. What is the difference between 3 & 7? And what score do you get if you forage in the local woods in the summer and then put it together in the back garden and get an ember?

I'm guessing that with 7, you have to source all the elements of the bow (except for the cord) out in the "wild" somewhere, make the bow etc there and then and then get an ember. Whereas 3 is you've collected all the parts, but don't create the ember there and then - perhaps (like I did), you dry the component parts out for few days or weeks before use. Assume the difficult element with 7 over 3 would be sourcing materials to use for the heath & drill, that are dry enough to use immediately.