i want to try the hand drill method of fire lighting, but im not sure what the best wood(s) to use as a beginner. Can i use the same wood for the drill and the hearth?
hand drill help
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Clematis is a first rate hearth board, you can use it with elder, burdock stem or teasel stem to great effect. If the drill starts to glaze over, some sand dropped into the depression and then start the drilling will sort it out. If you have problems getting the drill in good straight sections, consider socketing onto a straight piece of wood.
My adventure with hand drill is only just starting after a recent course and having some success there. If you can find somebody to show you the technique it will make it so much easier. Good luck with it, it's inspiring when you finally get that elusive ember, and if your hands get sore, take a break for a day or two.
My adventure with hand drill is only just starting after a recent course and having some success there. If you can find somebody to show you the technique it will make it so much easier. Good luck with it, it's inspiring when you finally get that elusive ember, and if your hands get sore, take a break for a day or two.
I was using cat tail on willow until I tried using clematis. I was gonna try cat tail on lime, but an unfortunate and embarrassing knife related incident put paid to that! I will try it some time though! I've got a ton of teasel in the works van that I spotted today! The missus is gonna kill me when i drag that into the house!
Elder drill with Red Cedar base works well... unfortunately it takes a while to toughen up your hands especially for a girl like me! Perserverence and a few nasty blisters and you will get there!!
Don't I know it! Driving home this weekend was fun after a week of hand drilling! I thought I had quite tough hands from the work I do but oh how wrong I was! There is so much that can aid or hinder with hand drill, bow drill is very forgiving of bad technique or bad wood selection. Having a second to help you tandem on the hand drill is a good idea, even the Bushmen don't hand drill alone apparently!
ok elder sounds like a plan i have some of that growing near me, how thick does the drill need to be, socketing into a straighter piece of wood again is that with a elder tip? sorry i am asking some many questions!
thanks for all the feedback though much appreciated
thanks for all the feedback though much appreciated
Drill should be a bit thicker than a large pencil, for the socket you can simply carve a wedge on each tip, the drill and the tip, in a slant so that when bound together they will form a circle over an inch of contact along the length. You can also cut a step on each piece and join them that way.
The tip needs to be elder, I was told the best wood is from an elder growing in the shade of a larger tree such as a yew and to get 2nd year growth. That way, there isn't loads of pith but more wood, so a better drill.
I have a set in the making, when I get onto it properly I'll do some pictures. Many of the techniques can be used in other things so they are handy to know.
The tip needs to be elder, I was told the best wood is from an elder growing in the shade of a larger tree such as a yew and to get 2nd year growth. That way, there isn't loads of pith but more wood, so a better drill.
I have a set in the making, when I get onto it properly I'll do some pictures. Many of the techniques can be used in other things so they are handy to know.
I'm doing a hand drill workshop at the summer moot again.
I most commonly use elder drill on commerial pine (e.g. pallet wood) hearth. With this combination the range of diameters of drill tip can be from perhaps 8mm up to 15mm.
I make an initial square socket with a knife by making a couple of shallow cuts and prising out the wood in between.
How's your attempts going Agiles10?
I most commonly use elder drill on commerial pine (e.g. pallet wood) hearth. With this combination the range of diameters of drill tip can be from perhaps 8mm up to 15mm.
I make an initial square socket with a knife by making a couple of shallow cuts and prising out the wood in between.
How's your attempts going Agiles10?
Le Loup
Settler
Yes you can use the same wood for both drill bit and fireboard, and it has been my experience that soft woods work quicker than hard woods. I suggest you experiment, you may well find new woods and tinders yet unused.
A couple of tips to make things easier: First use a tinder board under the fireboard. This can be a flat piece of wood or a piece of bark. Secondly use some tinder to transport/transfere the smouldering ember from the tinder-dust to your kindling/grass nest. Take you time, get controle of your breathing before touching the tinder to the ember and blowing very gently. This tinder does not have to be charred, but it will catch quicker if it is charred.
Le Loup.
Can anyone, including Rich, describe Rich59's three phases of hand drill to me again? I found them really helpful and labour-saving at the moot....although that might also have been cos Charlie did most of the work 
Hi Relfy,
Stage 1 - drill fast and hard to get smoke
Stage 2 - drill just enough to get intermittent smoke for 2-3 minutes, this allows thorough drying out of the wood, and in theory you are only doing a little work and your muscles are recovering for the big effort of stage 3. (Good to delegate to Charlie if you are not able to do this with relative ease.)
Stage 3 - give it all you have got for perhaps 3-5 passes down the drill
Good luck
Stage 1 - drill fast and hard to get smoke
Stage 2 - drill just enough to get intermittent smoke for 2-3 minutes, this allows thorough drying out of the wood, and in theory you are only doing a little work and your muscles are recovering for the big effort of stage 3. (Good to delegate to Charlie if you are not able to do this with relative ease.)
Stage 3 - give it all you have got for perhaps 3-5 passes down the drill
Good luck
Thanks Richard! Wow that was a speedy reply! Poor Charlie
I only see him perhaps once a year, he might object to my using him for hard labour that short time. Its actually phases 1 and 2 i find hard - exerting downward pressure...but i guess i should keep practicing and the muscles will come.Have i got it right that the triangular notch in my hearth extends into the middle of the drill slot?
I am using greater mullein and old man's beard, so we'll see how it goes!
Re the notch:- I usually go for a notch that clearly breaks into the edge of the circular depression but not as far as the middle. But it isn't all that crucial.
Re "Its actually phases 1 and 2 i find hard - exerting downward pressure":- That is about getting a lot of things just right - posture, hand moisture, leaning your weight into it, diameter and shape of the drill tip, dry enough materials set up just right. It can be easier and more reliable than bow drilling if you get the technique sorted.
Go for it Relfy!
Re "Its actually phases 1 and 2 i find hard - exerting downward pressure":- That is about getting a lot of things just right - posture, hand moisture, leaning your weight into it, diameter and shape of the drill tip, dry enough materials set up just right. It can be easier and more reliable than bow drilling if you get the technique sorted.
Go for it Relfy!
V
Vector
Guest
Howdy rich59! I have used a device made with a rectangular pc. of leather aprox 1 1/2 inches by 3 inch with two thongs attached to each end.Each thong has loops for your thumbs to fit into.The leather(I use elk)cups over the spindle.Your thumbs through the loops provides down pressure while leaving the palms to spin the spindle.The length of the thongs depends on the length of the spindle stick and whats comfortable to you.Good luck
