Gransfors brucks Splitting Axe...

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AndyP

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Sep 30, 2005
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I've got the large and smaller version and yeah they are awesome pieces of kit, bombproof too if you look after the haft/handle with a little linseed oil.
 

Peter_t

Native
Oct 13, 2007
1,353
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East Sussex
personally i don't think it is worth the money. we do a lot of firewood at work (was today in fact!) and i have worked with a few other companies an nobody used GB axes. splitting maul is the way to go imo, people think they are hard work because of the weight but for a 10 inch log you barely have to force it at all.

you can get a maul for £20 and then replace the handle when necassary (even expensive axes break after heavy use.



pete
 

Martyn

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 7, 2003
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personally i don't think it is worth the money. we do a lot of firewood at work (was today in fact!) and i have worked with a few other companies an nobody used GB axes. splitting maul is the way to go imo, people think they are hard work because of the weight but for a 10 inch log you barely have to force it at all.

you can get a maul for £20 and then replace the handle when necassary (even expensive axes break after heavy use.



pete

Have you ever tried using a 5lb maul with a 31" handle to cross cut a log, or limb branches?

If it's your business to process lots of logs, then a splitting maul is the way to go. There is no finesse about them because there doesnt need to be, they are simple, brute force physics. A wedge with an edge.

The splitting axe is an axe with a splitting bias. If you are out camping and are processing firewood for your campfire - and also possible making a shelter or whatever, then these splitting axes are superb. But hey, all I'm saying is try one. Most of those who have, are saying they are brilliant. :)
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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I think thats a fairly invidious argument Martyn. If I wanted to cross cut a log, I certainly wouldn't reach for a splitting axe - with hand tools, you aren't going to beat a misery whip - in the real world, a chainsaw, for limbing a Scandinavian axe is far better. I do own all of the above and have done all the tasks with them. That splitting axe is much too obtuse for a good limbing axe. The shape and weight and bit size do not lend themselves to cross fibre cutting.

I do not dispute that the GB splitting axe is a good tool. The 20" helve version is a splitting oriented version of a Limbing or boys axe. For most, that orientation is useful, for a few, those who carve or work wood, it is less useful.

It isn't a "silver bullet, do it all" axe though. Like all tools, it is a compromise oriented to a certain task set. It doesn't replace a real splitter (maul & wedge) or a real cutter (double bit or scandy axe in the GB range) - its just a tool oriented to processing small fire wood. Its good at that. Thats enough surely?

Red
 

Martyn

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 7, 2003
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I think thats a fairly invidious argument Martyn. If I wanted to cross cut a log, I certainly wouldn't reach for a splitting axe - with hand tools, you aren't going to beat a misery whip - in the real world, a chainsaw, for limbing a Scandinavian axe is far better. I do own all of the above and have done all the tasks with them. That splitting axe is much too obtuse for a good limbing axe. The shape and weight and bit size do not lend themselves to cross fibre cutting.
Nonesense. Do you actually own one or have you actually used the axe in question, or is that derived wisdom?

I do not dispute that the GB splitting axe is a good tool. The 20" helve version is a splitting oriented version of a Limbing or boys axe. For most, that orientation is useful, for a few, those who carve or work wood, it is less useful.

It isn't a "silver bullet, do it all" axe though. Like all tools, it is a compromise oriented to a certain task set. It doesn't replace a real splitter (maul & wedge) or a real cutter (double bit or scandy axe in the GB range) - its just a tool oriented to processing small fire wood. Its good at that. Thats enough surely?

Red

I thought I just said that? :confused:
 
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salad

Full Member
Sep 24, 2008
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I got one that I use at home for our fire wood.
We get our wood in lengths normaly just over a metre long , I just lay them on there side on my chopping block and whack them . When they are about the thicknes I want them I cut the split wood into lenths suitable for our fire place with a hand saw.
The gransfors splitting axe cleaves all different types of wood like this with a bit of effort and as I dont own a chain saw to cut into suitable lenghts before splitting is a good solution for me as it means free wood when I get it in lenghths like that.
 
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British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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I thought I just said that? :confused:

Perhaps. I read from your question:

Have you ever tried using a 5lb maul with a 31" handle to cross cut a log, or limb branches?

that you were saying that the splitting axe was good at these tasks. Clearly it isn't - in fact its remarkably poor at either. Its good at splitting small rounds along the grain and, at best, average to poor at cross grain cutting.

Red
 

salad

Full Member
Sep 24, 2008
1,779
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In the Mountains
I found a better pic of the splitting axe head profile, you can see it's not just a sharp wedge, it's waisted like the other GB axes....

small_splitting_axe01.jpg

It looks like there are different head weights as my one seems fatter than the one in the pic you found
 

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Martyn

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 7, 2003
5,252
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Perhaps. I read from your question:



that you were saying that the splitting axe was good at these tasks. Clearly it isn't - in fact its remarkably poor at either.

You do actually have one then?

Ahh well, I was using one last week and found it to be very good, as did everyone else in our group. Perhaps we should meet up and we'll give you some pointers? :rolleyes:
 

salad

Full Member
Sep 24, 2008
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Yes there are, there is the "small (26")" 3.5lb head and the "large (31")" 3.5lb head and there is the "small (16")" 2.5lb head and the "large (20")" 2.5lb head.

OK now I understand how you would limb a tree with one if it had the 2.5 head.
I think it may be slightly harder with the big fat 3.5 head
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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Absolutely Martyn. I have some lovely 3' diameter tree trunks that need rendering down to stove lengths. How about you try to do that with a splitting axe and I'll time you. Then I'll get a team on a misery whip (crosscut saw) and you time that? Or even against my double bit working axe?

Yes I had one. It was okay but was not man enough for the splitting I needed. I keep a few axes now that include:

A double bit working,
A Scandinavian,
Three Ceggas,
Three Lee Reeves,
Two Wetterlings,
A six pound maul,
An eight pound maul,
8" and 10" wedge pairs,
wood grenades

etc.

Its a good tool, fine for splitting small diameter wood which is what its intended for. All tools are compromises - the splitting axe is intended for just that. If you think it cuts across grain better than any other axe, then yes. happy to meet up and you show me what a splitting axe can do against say a double bit working axe.

Red
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,715
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<sigh> whatever Martyn. You clearly, having never met me, know all about the axes I own and have used. Those that have, will know the difference between us.

Much as they know you by your consistent views on Landrover ownership.

Red
 

Martyn

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 7, 2003
5,252
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www.britishblades.com
Well you could post a picture of it and prove me wrong - mebbe with those fine duelling pistols of yours?

Failing that, thanks for your opinions Red, they are duly noted.

Moving on....
 
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