Trouble with using an Awl!

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Hi Folks

Inspired by some wise words from members of this group I have finally purchased some leather working kit and have been working on a few projects. My biggest problem at the moment is my diamond awl... is it just me or are they super flimsy? Maybe I'm using it all wrong...

I am currently working on a small sheath for a mora 106 carving knife in 2.5mm-3mm leather. I shaved down the welt and the total thickness is about 8mm, quite chunky for a small knife I know! Am I wrong in trying to puch the awl through three layers of leather? It seems to be destroying the ridgidty of the leather.

Any help very much appreciated.

Leo
 

mrcharly

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 25, 2011
3,257
44
North Yorkshire, UK
8mm? I think you'd be better off using a leather punch.

Are you resting the leather on something when pushing the awl through?
 

leon-1

Full Member
Hi Leo, I punch through 25mm of leather using a rhombic / diamond awl. I don't rest the leather on anything as it is more difficult to control where the point of the awl will come through when you can't see where it's going.

Some rhombic blades are quite rough when you get them which can cause resistance when punching through multiple layers of leather. With mine I run them over wet and dry to smooth and to sharpen them after they have been fitted to the awl handle.

How long is the awl blade? I tend to use a shorter blade as it gives me more control, I am using mainly 25mm and 31mm blades (1 inch and 1.25 inch).

What style of sheath are you making, is it a pancake, western or scandi style??

If it's a scandi style sheath the stitching doesn't require a welt to protect it as the stitching runs along the flat of the blade rather than facing the cutting edge.

What type of leather are you trying to go through?

Oak bark tanned is probably the hardest, then veg tanned, then brain tanned and finally chrome tanned. Whichever leather you are using are you glueing it together? If so what adhesive are you using?
 
Thanks Guys

I'm using a 2" awl on 2-3mm veg tanned leather. I got the awl from Leprevo and thought it would be made of stouter stuff having to push through such a thickness of leather.

I did support the work using a keyboard mat but suspect it isn't quite firm enough as there is a little bit of give causing the leather to bend. How on earth do you push through that thickness of leather Leon-1?!

I did sharpen the awl and stab it in the wax every few holes but I never lose the feeling that it will bend at any moment.

Leo
 

Hibrion

Maker
Jan 11, 2012
1,230
7
Ireland
In my experience the awls from le prevo are not very strong. If you get a stronger diamond awl you should be able to punch through twice that without much problem. One thing to note is that you may have to sharpen an awl when you get it and you certainly have to keep it sharp; for leather at least.
 

Hibrion

Maker
Jan 11, 2012
1,230
7
Ireland
I havn't got a posh expensive one, but I got one from Tandy leather for a reasonable price that is very strong. It required a bit of a sharpen when I got it, but it's perfect now.
If you browse their site you will find a size you like. You can buy a blade and handle separately, or you can make your own. I've found Tandy in Northhampton to be very good to deal with and would recommend them.
 

craeg

Native
May 11, 2008
1,437
12
New Marske, North Yorkshire
Hi Leo
Like Leon said, a short awl is better but I have recently bought one of Andy's little awls (here) and it went through 1in of oak tanned bridle, no problems. He makes them when he is on-shore and so I would get one from him. Le Prevo ones are quite poor but are mass produced in China from 'ish steel but if you sand it totally smooth and razor sharp then cut it so only an inch protrudes from the handle it will be much better. When you get time, make yourself a stitching pony as you will have much more control and be able to stitch and awl at more or less the same time when you practice. The best thing about using a diamond awl for the right size of thread is that the holes close up and lock the stitch and IMHO looks really good. Have fun :)
 
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Hibrion

Maker
Jan 11, 2012
1,230
7
Ireland
Hi Leo
Like Leon said, a short awl is better but I have recently bought one of Andy's little awls (here) and it went through 1in of oak tanned bridle, no problems. He makes them when he is on-shore and so I would get one from him. Le Prevo ones are quite poor but are mass produced in China from 'ish steel but if you sand it totally smooth and razor sharp then cut it so only an inch protrudes from the handle it will be much better. When you get time, make yourself a stitching pony as you will have much more control and be able to stitch and awl at more or less the same time when you practice. The best thing about using a diamond awl for the right size of thread is that the holes close up and lock the stitch and IMHO looks really good. Have fun :)

The diamond version looks very good in the link you posted. It would be perfect for a travel kit. I think you may have made me part with some money :(
 

Tadpole

Full Member
Nov 12, 2005
2,842
21
60
Bristol
Bowstock will sell you a pre-sharpened/polished one for £8. it'll go through 20mm of veg tanned without much effort. Buy or Make a stitching pony to support the leather, and instead of pushing your awl in to some thing that will blunt it soon as look at it, try using a combination of stitching pony, and a block of bees wax (to support the leather as you push the awl) Work a treat. YMMV
 

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