Marlinspiking
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A marlin spike is a spike used in splicing ropes, it is like a thick metal pencil or a "dibber" usually and it can be used to open knots too.
Some penknives have a marlin spike on them (eg british army jack knife) and it is used by sticking the pointy end through the knot or the rope and wiggling to loosen the knot, or rope to splice.
http://www.boatsafe.com/marlinespike/index.htm
Very similar to a fid which is used in a similar way.
Some penknives have a marlin spike on them (eg british army jack knife) and it is used by sticking the pointy end through the knot or the rope and wiggling to loosen the knot, or rope to splice.
http://www.boatsafe.com/marlinespike/index.htm
Very similar to a fid which is used in a similar way.
I noticed that too, new one on me!arctic hobo said:That link made me laugh "block and tackle (pronounced taykle)"
Not round here it isn't!
Might have been taught by someone with a speech impediment!
I dare say Chris Kavanaugh will know if it is an American pronounciation!
Tackle .
It was always pronounced as taykle , in British Nautical schools and was the common form in the "Merch".
Just a few words of caution about the jack-knife marlinspike . I would advise against using them for any kind of splicing. The design is just not suited.
And please dont use em as an implement for striking a point into something, I can assure everyone, that they almost always close shut on the hand of the user.
Be safe.
Seagull
It was always pronounced as taykle , in British Nautical schools and was the common form in the "Merch".
Just a few words of caution about the jack-knife marlinspike . I would advise against using them for any kind of splicing. The design is just not suited.
And please dont use em as an implement for striking a point into something, I can assure everyone, that they almost always close shut on the hand of the user.
Be safe.
Seagull
There is a knot called a marlins spike hitch which some tree surgeons use to send tools up the tree.
You can put a karabiner or other item though the loop and it will tighten around it, then when the krab or whatever is removed the knot will pull out by itself. I will see if I can find a pic
You can put a karabiner or other item though the loop and it will tighten around it, then when the krab or whatever is removed the knot will pull out by itself. I will see if I can find a pic
the knot toddy is talking about is very useful i use it as she said it is also easy enouth to be tied one handed
http://www.troop7.org/Knots/Marlinspike.html
http://www.troop7.org/Knots/Marlinspike.html
I think the constrictor knot is used to tie the bowstring on a longbow, and it is excellent for whipping an end.Biddlesby said:
As always make up your own mind about the jack knife marlin spike, Been using mine for splicing for the last 31 years (when it was issued to me) . I have all sorts of sizes and types of marlin splike and fid and its the one I use the most . As always horses for courses.
Mind you whilst giving a demo last week completly forgot how to tie a crown knot felt a complete wally.
Mind you whilst giving a demo last week completly forgot how to tie a crown knot felt a complete wally.
I've still got my old boy scout penknife with a single sheepsfoot blade and a fairly blunt marlin spike. It was extremely useful for opening up the strands of a rope for back-splicing and whipping the ends - this was in the days, of course, when ropes were made of strands of natural materials, not polypropylene or whatever! The marlin spike is not much use for anything else, though I have got stones out of a horses hoof with it, but if youre working with real ropes its invaluable.
Tight ropes,
Ted W
Tight ropes,
Ted W
Just to elaborate more on the marlin spike and constrictor knot
The knot is not advised as a bow string knot, though it will not slip readily it will not lie parallel with the limbs.
It is the perfect semi permanent knot when used for whipping, if it's done right you should need to cut it off. or take absolutely ages.
It can be used losely to temporarily to fix cordage materials to saplings.
It makes a great rope ladder knot, slips slightly less than a clove hitch.
It is easy to tie and learn being similar to the clove hitch.
It can be tied on the bight if you learn the form, this is quite tricky but well worth it, when tying up double guy lines on shelters etc.
It can make a quick emergency tie for arterial bleeding, especially if you carry one preready on your hat in strong cord. with masking tape taped edges so it doesn't loosen.
Is a great binder for spear making using knives etc, a few small ones will hold very well, reducing the need for longer lashing and longer cords, meaning you have less cord to make.
Great for the ends of longer whippings, eg storage of paracord on knife handles. thread around torches etc. Especially if you want easy access to it, unlike the common bow nocking wrap.
Marlin spike hitching and use
Marlin spike hitch, start to make a simple slip knot place the marlin spike through the loop made and pull back to tighten, can be made one handed whilst holding the spike.
Used for and especially good for tightly tying a wrap/whipping/lashing etc whilst saving the blisters on your hands from starting.
Can be used on thinner straps for compression bags to get a real good grip and shrink.
It has many more uses in splicing, rope making by preturning all strands, you can count the rotations this way
Hope this has helped some.
The knot is not advised as a bow string knot, though it will not slip readily it will not lie parallel with the limbs.
It is the perfect semi permanent knot when used for whipping, if it's done right you should need to cut it off. or take absolutely ages.
It can be used losely to temporarily to fix cordage materials to saplings.
It makes a great rope ladder knot, slips slightly less than a clove hitch.
It is easy to tie and learn being similar to the clove hitch.
It can be tied on the bight if you learn the form, this is quite tricky but well worth it, when tying up double guy lines on shelters etc.
It can make a quick emergency tie for arterial bleeding, especially if you carry one preready on your hat in strong cord. with masking tape taped edges so it doesn't loosen.
Is a great binder for spear making using knives etc, a few small ones will hold very well, reducing the need for longer lashing and longer cords, meaning you have less cord to make.
Great for the ends of longer whippings, eg storage of paracord on knife handles. thread around torches etc. Especially if you want easy access to it, unlike the common bow nocking wrap.
Marlin spike hitching and use
Marlin spike hitch, start to make a simple slip knot place the marlin spike through the loop made and pull back to tighten, can be made one handed whilst holding the spike.
Used for and especially good for tightly tying a wrap/whipping/lashing etc whilst saving the blisters on your hands from starting.
Can be used on thinner straps for compression bags to get a real good grip and shrink.
It has many more uses in splicing, rope making by preturning all strands, you can count the rotations this way
Hope this has helped some.
Seagull said:
While I agree in the main, there are exceptions. When, as a young man, I was commercial fishing in Alaska, I found a very good sailors knife with fid (or marlin spike) that worked very well. I found it in a pawn shop.
It came in very handy in my job - which required a lot of splicing. It was quite a large knife with the blade set up as a "switchblade (though it looked nothing like a stilleto)." Very handy in that work as you often did not have a free hand. It was a very old knife, however, and may well have been home made.
PG
Sold it to a buddy when I left Alaska. He still has it and will not sell it back.
Closed, it was about eight inches long. The blade was quite broad, and had a very shallow degree point (must be a better way to put that). When opened, the fid was on one end and the blade on the other. When you hit the "switchblade" toggle - it would about throw the knife out of your hand. Very strong spring. It had a toggle and a safety button for the switchblade.
The fid locked in place - as did the blade. It had steel mountings and wood scales. The blade would sharpen up very nice. If you needed to cut a line - you could do it with one swipe. A very nice old knife.
PG
Closed, it was about eight inches long. The blade was quite broad, and had a very shallow degree point (must be a better way to put that). When opened, the fid was on one end and the blade on the other. When you hit the "switchblade" toggle - it would about throw the knife out of your hand. Very strong spring. It had a toggle and a safety button for the switchblade.
The fid locked in place - as did the blade. It had steel mountings and wood scales. The blade would sharpen up very nice. If you needed to cut a line - you could do it with one swipe. A very nice old knife.
PG
Biddlesby said:
An interesting (and probably useless) bit of info on marlin spikes. The original marlin spikes were long wooden objects used in tall ships (imagine something like a truncheon with a wide collar below the hand grip). Marlin spikes were inserted into holes (often found around the gunwale or masts). Halliards and sheets were secured to the marlin spikes. The relative line could be released by withdrawing the marlin spike (wheras untying the rope when under extreme load would have been very difficult). You can see how the knot was useful for this purpose.
Red
With out being to pedantic Redcross
What you are talking about is a belay(ing) pin not a marlinspike which has always been a pointed (tapered) metal spike for seperating strands, poking holes in canvas etc as apposed to a fid which is a wooden one doing the same job.
The main point being that Marlinspikes and Fids need to be tapered to work and Belay pins do not work if they are tapered.
What you are talking about is a belay(ing) pin not a marlinspike which has always been a pointed (tapered) metal spike for seperating strands, poking holes in canvas etc as apposed to a fid which is a wooden one doing the same job.
The main point being that Marlinspikes and Fids need to be tapered to work and Belay pins do not work if they are tapered.
tedw said:
Are you sure that was a marlin spike and not an Awl???
Most Boy Scout knives have and Awl to punch holes in leather and wood.
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