How do you get the most out of your Swedish lk35 Rucksack? Any tricks?

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I have several of these packs and have used them when I am able. I have used them mostly for day hikes and for several weekend trips.

I hope this thread can be used as a tool to get the most you can out of the pack and that people can share some tricks or tips they have learned to get the most out of this small, but indestructable pack.

Before I share some of the ways I have modified or used my pack, I have a few questions. Hopefully, someone here has used the pack in the miltiary and can answer these simple questions.

1. Why are there four loops of different lengths at the top of the pack to connect to the frame? Is the second set of loops a back up if the the first ones tear out? Is the longer set of loops used to move the pack away from the frame so that materials can be stored between the pack and the frame?
2. Why is the frame curved at the bottom? What purpose does that serve? Was the intention in the design to store items between the bottome of the pack and the frame or, tie items onto the bottom of the frame?
3. Why are the frame tiedowns at the bottom of the pack so long? Were they designed so that the pack could be further away from the frame to store materials between the pack and frame?
4. What was designed to fit on the two loops on the back of the backpack? An icepick? An Axe? What do all of you store in those two loops? Why?
5. What is the purpose of the small rectangular frames on each side of the pack frame? Are they meant as guide holders for straps?

Any help with these questions would be appreciated.

My modifications:

1. First, I upgraded the shoulderstraps. This can be done in two different ways. The first option is called "super straps." These are designed for US ALICE packs, but work perfectly on lk 35 packs:

http://www.tacticaltailor.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=22p://

The second option (and much cheaper) are standard ALICE straps:

http://www.armynavydeals.com/asp/products_details.asp?SKU=2261&ST=2


2. Second, I added a waist belt or "kidney pad". This did add comfort:

http://www.hsgear.biz/ProductInfo~productid~25-KIDNEYPAD.html

A more expensive, but better made version is here:

http://www.tacticaltailor.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=23

I have used the pad on and off, depending on my mood.

3. I removed the water bladder from my hydration pack and inserted the plastic bladder into the compartment inside the pack. I then run the hose out from under the pack cover and attach it onto my shoulder strap.

4. I added a British DPM shoulder bag to the pack. This is a very narrow, square bag with a basic shoulder strap. It has a metal ring at the bottom corner of side to tie the bag securely around your waist. I tie it around the pack for an external compartment. I then adjust the shoulder strap so that it goes around the top of the frame. It secures well and can hold maps or first aid items for easy access. The shoulder bag was designed to hold either rolled maps or some kind of long shells. It has a hard plastic insert in the bottom of the bag that can be removed and it is made out of cordura. What is nice, is that I can leave pack at camp and keep the shoulder bag on me to move about. It carries field guides, notepads and binoculars quite well.

Well, that is what I have to add. I really like these little packs and have bought several over the years. I have given one to my son and I always keep a loaded pack in my car for emergencies.

What can you add? Pics of your modifications, tricks, tips and set ups?

How do you pack your lk35 bag???
 

big_swede

Native
Sep 22, 2006
1,452
8
41
W Yorkshire
I used this pack as a multidaypack during basic training.

For the questions:
1: I don't have one in front of me now, and I don't own one, it sounds like you are talking about the loose loops on the top? We used them to attach sleeping mats, LAWs, demolition gear etc..
2: To attach boxes of different kinds and for easier storage of grenade tubes (e.g. grenades for this). Also for radios etc.
3: Yes, exactly.
4: A shovel/entrenchment tool.
5: If you're talking about what I think you are, then yes.

The modification I would like to do is to weld a handle to the frame. The handle could then be used to throw it away as far as you can. :D

It's a nice backpack, but too heavy, and a pack of that size doesn't really need a load bearing system that heavy. Unless your hauling military gear. But then this is the wrong forum.
 
Thanks Big Swede.

I realize that the pack is heavy and overbuilt, but these are exactly the reasons why I like it.

So many items made today seem to be "throw away" items. When something is overbuilt, repairable and rugged, I just seem to be drawn to it.

I always keep one of the packs in my car for emergencies and it has come in handy twice during the winters here in Maine.

I buy alot of Swedish surplus gear for camping only because I know it is well built and practical.

Any tips on how to get the most out of this little pack would be appreciated.
 

Traper

Tenderfoot
Mar 13, 2008
67
0
Poland
Can anybody post a picture with this rucksack on somebodies back? I just wonder how high it "sits". Can you attach a bed roll ( sleeping bag, thermarest, bivy bag) to it without modifications?
 

big_swede

Native
Sep 22, 2006
1,452
8
41
W Yorkshire
Can anybody post a picture with this rucksack on somebodies back? I just wonder how high it "sits". Can you attach a bed roll ( sleeping bag, thermarest, bivy bag) to it without modifications?

Yes, you can attach most things on it, it has long straps for the lid, and even longer on top of the lid.

Best pic I could find.
lk35.png
 

forestwalker

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
1. Why are there four loops of different lengths at the top of the pack to connect to the frame? Is the second set of loops a back up if the the first ones tear out? Is the longer set of loops used to move the pack away from the frame so that materials can be stored between the pack and the frame?

When you carried the old standard radio set (15 kg!) that was attached under the pack, towards the frame, and then the pack was hung "outside" this. Then the longer loops were needed (probably also for other kinds of extra "toys").

IIRC there was two versions, one 35 L and one 70 L, both with the same frame.

One more thing about it; if one makes the "compression" straps longer one can open the pack without completely undoing the buckles, which makes life much easier.

1. It was much, much, better than what preceded it (WW2 era, IIRC).

2. It is a rather horrid pack by modern standards, though a waist belt improves things (it was only issued with the 70 L version)

3. I own one, and sort of like it.
 

slasha9

Forager
Nov 28, 2004
183
3
54
Cannock
woodlife.ning.com
I bought one of these on evil-Bay and have got more use out of it in three months than most of my packs that I have had for years, it's old fashioned, ugly, bulky and has no fancy tricks to impress anyone, so why do I love mine?

Because it's simple, will accommodate pretty much any kit that you can string onto the frame and will take any amount of beating.

Would love to find out if there were any LK70 packs in the UK if anyone knows where they are hiding?
 

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