DIY Leather sharpening strop

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Charlz9mm

Forager
Jul 1, 2012
121
0
USA
I wanted a good sharpening strop.
The one I wanted was $70 USD.
Instead I decided to make one. This is not finished but I thought this might be interesting to someone.
I glued two free, large paint stir sticks together. I am then in the process of gluing some scrap leather to them.
I will finish the handle,trim the leather then apply sharpening compound to the leather. It should then be finisehd.


26067217941_96b6407e86.jpg
[/url]IMG_3802 by charlz9mm, on Flickr[/IMG]
IMG_3799 by charlz9mm, on Flickr
 

Charlz9mm

Forager
Jul 1, 2012
121
0
USA
Here is the finished product. This is an essential item to keep your fine knives sharp and polished.
This cost virtually nothing. The only significant cost is the polishing compound.
An old leather belt is an excellent source of leather.

26127011276_43cd00b1fc.jpg
[/url]photo by charlz9mm, on Flickr[/IMG]
 

2trapper

Forager
Apr 11, 2011
211
1
Italy
I'm planning to do one very similar. Just for my knowledge, is better the smooth or the rough side of the belt, in order to get a nice sharpening?
 

Nice65

Brilliant!
Apr 16, 2009
6,504
2,919
W.Sussex
I'm planning to do one very similar. Just for my knowledge, is better the smooth or the rough side of the belt, in order to get a nice sharpening?

Eternal question. In my opinion the rough side is exactly that, rougher. But not so much you'd really notice. It holds the compound better though, it takes longer for the leather to get a shiny glaze on it.

Thinner leather is best for bevelled edges as it doesn't compress so much under pressure. Thicker, like 3mm belt leather is better for convex edges as it curves under compression. Any strop, over time, will start to convex the edge.

A good source of the thinner stuff is old sofas.
 

Charlz9mm

Forager
Jul 1, 2012
121
0
USA
Eternal question. In my opinion the rough side is exactly that, rougher. But not so much you'd really notice. It holds the compound better though, it takes longer for the leather to get a shiny glaze on it.

Thinner leather is best for bevelled edges as it doesn't compress so much under pressure. Thicker, like 3mm belt leather is better for convex edges as it curves under compression. Any strop, over time, will start to convex the edge.

A good source of the thinner stuff is old sofas.

I would agree.
 

Janne

Sent off - Not allowed to play
Feb 10, 2016
12,330
2,294
Grand Cayman, Norway, Sweden
I fixed an old belt (about 2 inches wide, in good condition) to a wall, without any backing. The wall fixing has a svivel, so I can use both sides.
I never use any polishing compound, the barbers in the old days did not either, and it works well to get a fabulous edge.
 

Robson Valley

Full Member
Nov 24, 2014
9,959
2,666
McBride, BC
One obstacle with the store-bought ones is they never seem to be long enough.
Looks to me like you've overcome that flaw.

In a day of wood carving, I'm honing edges evey 30-60 minutes to sustain the fun.
I retired my leather strop after maybe 15 years.

Seems to me that the honing compound, such as CrOx/Alox, has the abrasive suspended in some sort of waxy carrier.
Even with raking and recharging, enough of that wax penetrated the leather and softened it. The compression effect was substantial.

Instead, I have a piece of polished granite stone countertop cutoff.
My strop is a length of cereal box card stock with the honing cpd scribbled on that.
Held on the stone with a bit of masking tape. Entirely practical to make up a dozen at a time.
 

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