classier then a zip-top

[climberslacker]

hey all!

I saw a video about leather draw string bags, and how to make them and it got me wondering. I am looking for a bag to keep my dry bannok mix (sometimes I just use flour, baking powder and salt) and I was wonderign if anyone knew how I could make a bag that would hold it, but not be a zip-top bag, and prefrably be in leather. Any closing methods, or construction methods would be appreciated. Thanks!!

 

[pwb]

I remembered seeing a leather bag with a roll down top like a canoe dry bag, here's a link to the post :
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=477609&postcount=4

Looks like it wouldn't let the flour escape .

I suppose you could maybe also substitute the plastic clip for a toggle and loop or other closure method if you wanted to be more traditional.

Cheers, Pete.

 

[drewdunnrespect]

well you could allways use a conoe dry bag methord but with velco on the last turn which might work cheers drew

 

[John Fenna]

Make a pouch of length "X" at a point halfway down one side "1/2X" sew a thong long enough to tie around the pouch.
To close the pouch securely tie the thong tightly around the pouch.
Then twist the pouch above "1/2X" into a tight spiral.
Fold the spiral at a point just below halfway between the top and "1/2X" and tie the spiral to the first tie around the pouch at "1/2X" very tightly.
Aint nuthin getting out of that closure - I have used it to close floatation bags the size of bivvi bags (full of dry gear) and swum it across rivers with no leakage......
It is a good idea to wax seal the seams in leather pouches if you want them to be watertight. For food use I would line the leather pouch with a cotton or silk bag to keep the food untainted by prevoius foods....

 

[Retired Member southey]

could you have a drybag style roll down that when close was beneath the level of the draw cord, I gueass the bag would need an extra upturnt skirt to form the draw cord section, the roll down would close the bag and the draw cord would hold the roll down down, If this dosent make sense please could we do a Vulcan mind meld as i think it would be the only way of explaining whats in my head.

 

[Hetzen]

Is leather water/moisture proof? I didn't think it was.

 

[John Fenna]

It is if you oil it or wax it - think of leather boots/oilskins etc....

 

[forestwalker]

I've used fabric bags for all kinds of goods for years, but I line mine with plastic bags (high quality freezer bags). Better for hygiene IMHO. The fabric protects the plastic pretty well.

If one ties a "more-than-eight2 figure of eight knot it will be tight even if you don't pull it very hard, and still easy to open.

As JF said, well waxed/oiled leather is pretty "proof" on its own (make sure to put a welt in the seams, or use one of the "magic" seams the Inuit use on waterpoof footwear).

 

[climberslacker]

caould you describe this "magic seam"? it sounds very interesting

 

[forestwalker]

caould you describe this "magic seam"? it sounds very interesting

Not really, unfortunately. Basically it is a way of folding-sewing skins with sinews such that when the sinew gets wet and shinks it pulls the seam thigther. Edna Wilder shows in in her book on skin sewing but does not get into much detail in the text. I'll see if I get a chance to test it with some moose gut this autumn.

Trying: but the two edges next to each other. Fold both sides down, and then back again 90 degrees. You then have a fold in your hand, sticking up from two pieces of material that meet, with the edges down and two ridges next to each other (a bit like a french folded seam, I think). Sew a lock-stich sideways through this fold (four layers, using sinew as the bit that goes through the skins, and something else (I can't recall exactly what and the book is packed) to turn it over. Imagine the result if you had used way too much tension on the bottom thread on a sewing machine.

 

[climberslacker]

what do you recomend oiling it with? or waxing... but the bag doesnt have to be waterproof... just flour proof

 

[climberslacker]

also, would a speedy stitcher work? ( http://www.speedystitcher.com/ ) Or should I go out and buy an awl, and saddle stictch it? I have very thin leather, that is very supple (not veg tan) Thanks for all the help!!

 

[John Fenna]

Most of my thin leather is capable of being sewn with a domestic sewing machine!

 

[ForgeCorvus]

Or if you don't have a sewing machine and the leather is fairly thin you could use what I call "Stitch and a half"
You use one harness needle and one glover's needle (the type with a three bladed point), the only snag is you have to always lead with the glover's needle (coz thats whats making the holes), I don't have a problem with doing this but I am (fairly) ambidextrous......I don't know how you Mono-handers would get on, can someone try it and share


BTW I quite often use this to sew up to four thicknesses of 1mm leather, a small pair of pliers helps