Wood cracking when carving spoons

[chris_irwin]

I haven't carved many spoons, but when I do, I usually do it over a period of a few days. Sometimes when I leave a half finished spoon over a day or two, it develops cracks.

How can I prevent this from happening?

The current spoon I'm carving is from a piece of Hazel that was still fairly green when I started.

 

[Muddypaws]

Try to keep even thicknesses all over the spoon as you carve, and don't leave one part of the spoon significantly thicker than the rest if you stop work for a while. This will enable the stresses created as the wood dries to dissipate naturally through subtle warping (but because a spoon is all curves the warping won't matter)

And make sure that you don't include any of the central pith, because radial cracks will start from there.

 

[Indoorsout]

You can also keep it sealed in a plastic bag between sessions to minimize moisture loss

 

[Retired Member southey]

Don't keep indoors if youngace centrall heating, very dry heat. Just leave it out side out of the elements.

 

[chris_irwin]

Try to keep even thicknesses all over the spoon as you carve, and don't leave one part of the spoon significantly thicker than the rest if you stop work for a while. This will enable the stresses created as the wood dries to dissipate naturally through subtle warping (but because a spoon is all curves the warping won't matter)

And make sure that you don't include any of the central pith, because radial cracks will start from there.

What do you mean by don't include any of the central pith? Do you mean don't use the centre of the wood?

 

[mrcharly]

I've made a few spoons that included the central pith, but only a bit of it. They worked out ok as long as the bowl was thin.

Stick it in a plastic bag with the whittlings in between sessions.

 

[Muddypaws]

What do you mean by don't include any of the central pith? Do you mean don't use the centre of the wood?

Yes that's right. For best results I split a branch in half and then remove a bit more of the newly exposed surface just to make sure I have removed all the spongy pith from the very centre of the branch. Some woods are more prone to cracking than others if you don't remove more of the central timber (IIRC I had an alder spoon crack at the edge of the bowl because of this)

 

[chris_irwin]

Yes that's right. For best results I split a branch in half and then remove a bit more of the newly exposed surface just to make sure I have removed all the spongy pith from the very centre of the branch. Some woods are more prone to cracking than others if you don't remove more of the central timber (IIRC I had an alder spoon crack at the edge of the bowl because of this)

Ah OK, I'll remember that in future. Thanks for all the tips so far guys. This spoon already has the damage done, but maybe It will work out better for the next one.

 

[adam-hob]

When ever I carve a spoon, generally I remove the central pith as this reduces the risk out the spoon cracking/splitting. Also save some of your shavings and put them in an air tight plastic bag (as stated below) with your spoon, this works very well for short periods of time a couple of days ideally. If you want to leave a project for a longer period, I get some paint and cover both ends (growth rings) of the projects, this helps to draw the moisture out of the wood from the side and reduces splitting and distortion.

You can always do a combination of the two.

Hope this is helpful.