Pruning cut method

[THOaken]

http://www2.arborday.org/media/graphics/storm-recovery/d1-pruning-cuts.jpg

http://www.woodland-ways.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/spoon1-copy-300x213.jpg

Which would you recommend? I'm going to collect greenwood, but I'd very much like to do it properly. It looks rather simple, but I imagine there's a few snags I might come across? I don't wish to damage the tree.

On picture one cut A is to act as a stopping point, correct?

Thank you.

 

[Shewie]

I've only done the second method, works well and easy to tidy up

 

[Samon]

..I have heard it's best to leave the cut messy, as this promotes (bare with me here..) the correct blank cells needed to start the regrowth and repair?

 

[THOaken]

I've only done the second method, works well and easy to tidy up

Cut three is an angular cut so that it'll be a flat surface, yes? So two stop cuts - one on the bottom, one on the top, and then an angular cut for a clean face that will grow again?

 

[Shewie]

Cut three is an angular cut so that it'll be a flat surface, yes? So two stop cuts - one on the bottom, one on the top, and then an angular cut for a clean face that will grow again?

The way I got taught was to make the third cut as close to the trunk as possible so the bark can heal over the cut.

 

[copper_head]

You wan't to reduce the surface area of cut wood that you leave, so as you say a flat cut for a clean face. The important bit is to cut it close the to the bark scar where the branch extends from the tree, without cutting through it. This area contains fungicidal and antibacterial and leaving this intact gives the tree its best chance for recovery.

 

[Clouston98]

You wan't to reduce the surface area of cut wood that you leave, so as you say a flat cut for a clean face. The important bit is to cut it close the to the bark scar where the branch extends from the tree, without cutting through it. This area contains fungicidal and antibacterial and leaving this intact gives the tree its best chance for recovery.

+1 to that .

 

[Stew]

both look basically the same to me? just depends on if you want the first cut to be above the or below the top cut. I find the picture with the cuts as letters works better for me.

 

[THOaken]

Made a diagram of my own.

 

[Toddy]

Yet the folks who mechanically shear hedges say that the messy cut actually promotes new growth rather than simply scab.


I leave as small and tidy as I can, try not to leave the cut face so that rain water pools on it and make real efforts not to rip back bark.

I don't think there's ever one cut will suit every branch. I do think that there's a lot of sense in being aware of what you're doing rather than only doing it by rote.

cheers,
M

p.s. THOaken, those two cuts are supposed to stop the underside bark tearing but not to leave a step like that.

 

[Shewie]

Made a diagram of my own.

That works for me

 

[copper_head]

That looks correct thoaken, depending on the size of the branch two cuts may not be necessary though.

 

[HillBill]

Yes, you put cut A in first to stop the branch tearing loads of fibres and bark out of the rest of the tree as it drops.

On picture one cut A is to act as a stopping point, correct?

Thank you.

 

[Mesquite]

The way I got taught was to make the third cut as close to the trunk as possible so the bark can heal over the cut.

Now I was taught slightly differently.

You don't want to cut as close to the trunk as possible because that will remove the actual bark that would grow over wound.

If you look at a branch you'll see there's like a small ridge of bark at the base and you want to cut just slightly in front of that.

This is a better illustration of how to prune a branch

 

[HillBill]

One stop cut, one main cut, and one tidy up cut.

 

[THOaken]

Now I was taught slightly differently.

You don't want to cut as close to the trunk as possible because that will remove the actual bark that would grow over wound.

If you look at a branch you'll see there's like a small ridge of bark at the base and you want to cut just slightly in front of that.

This is a better illustration of how to prune a branch

The collar, you mean? Cut just ahead of the collar?
Edit: great picture.

I think that's enough info I need.
Thanks everyone.

 

[stuey]

Finishing cut should be 2-3 mm ahead (outboard) of the branch bark ridge or collar. You should cut perpendicular to the branch you are removing to leave a flat smooth surface. Imagine the annular rings of the branch looking like a target. Infact, the process is called target pruning for just that reason.

So step cut first 5-6 inches away from finishing cut assuming branch is less than 5 inches or so diamter. Undercut, top cut further outboard. Carefully snap the step to remove bulk of branch.

Finishing cut as above making sure you hold on to the stub as you near completion of the cut to prevent it from falling and possibly tearing into the branch bark ridge.



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[THOaken]

Thanks everyone.

May I ask an off topic question? How long does greenwood stay green for? For as long as it retains moisture? I might harvest a piece of sycamore but would not be able to work on it today. Does greenwood retain moisture for several days?

 

[Clouston98]

Yes, the longer you leave it the drier and harder it gets really .

 

[shaggystu]

Thanks everyone.

May I ask an off topic question? How long does greenwood stay green for? For as long as it retains moisture? I might harvest a piece of sycamore but would not be able to work on it today. Does greenwood retain moisture for several days?

Don't split it, don't remove the bark, leave it somewhere cool and out of the sun (in the shed for example) and it'll be definitely be fine for a few days. There are ways of slowing down the seasoning process but they're not really needed at this time of year, certainly not if you're only talking a few days anyway.

HTH

Stuart.