My new custom...
- Thread starter Martyn
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Love the design and execution of the sheaf from the mirrored scales carving through to the leather lacing and use of what I assume is a cow rib off cut for the toggle?
Cheers
Cheers
Correct mate yeah, the carving follows the same theme. The sheath is pretty simple, just a pouch jobbie. It's nice enough, but mebbe a bit too "Elven" for my taste. I think I'll get a custom job for it at some point that is mebbe a bit more "Saxon". I have in mind a dangler of somesort, maybe in antiqued rawhide, or a rawhide/veg tan combo, with some carving - I'm thinking of going with the Jörmungandr or Ragnarok theme. I may have to get Gerhard to fashion another toggle for it in the same bone.
At the risk of offending I think the leatherwork fully compliments what is an Elven-like knife. In fact have you not done a deal with the Costume Department of the next Lord of The Rings film?? All joshing aside it has a certain quality that would be difficult to maintain/compliment with a brutish Saxon theme!
But then its not as if youre going to bin the original sheaf.
Still a lovely knife even if it does have aspirations to fly with the fairies!
I'll get my gossamer-spun coat
Cheers
But then its not as if youre going to bin the original sheaf.
Still a lovely knife even if it does have aspirations to fly with the fairies!
I'll get my gossamer-spun coat
Cheers
Hi mate cool knife. Is the blade differentialy tempered to form the 'hamon'
If I were you I would get a japanese sword cleaning kit, that will keep your blade clean without harming the temper line.
Try http://www.ninecircles.co.uk/
Choji oil smells a bit mind.
Regards, Mart
PS, the temperline looks like castle rigg stone circle in a blizard.
If I were you I would get a japanese sword cleaning kit, that will keep your blade clean without harming the temper line.
Try http://www.ninecircles.co.uk/
Choji oil smells a bit mind.
Regards, Mart
PS, the temperline looks like castle rigg stone circle in a blizard.
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Just glad to have one that you havent got mate.
Unfortunately, there are way too many of those.
Unfortunately, there are way too many of those.
Aye, but you need to be congratulated for a sterling effort.
robin wood
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
As someone who has handled quite a bit of Saxon craftwork I just can't see the words "brutish" and Saxon going together and am sure the sheath Martin describes would be far from brutish.
I am glad this thread keeps popping back up so I can have another look.
Would it be rude to ask how much it cost Martyn? It would probably help stop me fantasising.
Aye, but you need to be congratulated for a sterling effort.
I get a thank you note every month from Visa.
As someone who has handled quite a bit of Saxon craftwork I just can't see the words "brutish" and Saxon going together and am sure the sheath Martin describes would be far from brutish.
I am glad this thread keeps popping back up so I can have another look.
Would it be rude to ask how much it cost Martyn? It would probably help stop me fantasising.
You'll get a ballpark from his site...
http://www.wieland-der-schmied.de/03_1_messer.html
I think that is the most defined Knife, scales and sheath design that I have ever seen, they just flow from one to the other. Don't you dare change out the sheath, that would be close to sacrilege.
Oh well I haven't bought a knife in a while, he may be my next, stunning, elvish or not
Cheers
Stephen
Oh well I haven't bought a knife in a while, he may be my next, stunning, elvish or not
Cheers
Stephen
Actually I already have a sword cleaning kit (I use it to clean my swords
), but it's not really necessary for this knife. The blade is actually differentially hardened (tempering is a different process) and yeah, it's that process that creates the hamon.
The blade is covered in clay, thick clay on the spine and thin clay on the edge. Then the blade is heated and when the crystaline structure of the steel changes, the blade is quenched in either oil or brine. If the steel cools very quickly, then the hard crystals that formed are "locked" into place, if the steel cools slowly, those crystals are lost and the steel returns to being relatively soft. Where the clay is thick on the spine, you get a softer, tougher bit of blade because it cooled slower and where the clay was thin, you get a hard, sharp bit of blade because it cooled fast. The hamon is the transition zone between the 2 areas.
In traditional Japanese blades, the blade is "polished" with a very, very fine abrasive until the hamon pops out. But with my knife, the hamon has been revealed with an acid etch. That makes it much easier to look after and if the hamon goes faint, I just wipe the blade with some acid again to bring it back.
Sooooooo..... no need for posh Japanese polishing kits.
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I think that is the most defined Knife, scales and sheath design that I have ever seen, they just flow from one to the other. Don't you dare change out the sheath, that would be close to sacrilege.
Oh well I haven't bought a knife in a while, he may be my next, stunning, elvish or not
Cheers
Stephen
It isnt that I dont like the sheath, I do, but it's perhaps not the most functional. The showstopper is the knife, it's a thing of absolute beauty.
But back to the sheath, there is no reason why a knife cant have a working coat as well as a sunday best.
Originally Posted by mart
Hi mate cool knife. Is the blade differentialy tempered to form the 'hamon'
If I were you I would get a japanese sword cleaning kit, that will keep your blade clean without harming the temper line.
Try http://www.ninecircles.co.uk/
Choji oil smells a bit mind.
Regards, Mart
PS, the temperline looks like castle rigg stone circle in a blizard.
Actually I already have a sword cleaning kit (I use it to clean my swords ), but it's not really necessary for this knife.
The blade is actually differentially hardened (tempering is a different process) and yeah, it's that process that creates the hamon.
The blade is covered in clay, thick clay on the spine and thin clay on the edge. Then the blade is heated and when the crystaline structure of the steel changes, the blade is quenched in either oil or brine. If the steel cools very quickly, then the hard crystals that formed are "locked" into place, if the steel cools slowly, those crystals are lost and the steel returns to being relatively soft. Where the clay is thick on the spine, you get a softer, tougher bit of blade because it cooled slower and where the clay was thin, you get a hard, sharp bit of blade because it cooled fast. The hamon is the transition zone between the 2 areas.
In traditional Japanese blades, the blade is "polished" with a very, very fine abrasive until the hamon pops out. But with my knife, the hamon has been revealed with an acid etch. That makes it much easier to look after and if the hamon goes faint, I just wipe the blade with some acid again to bring it back.
Sooooooo..... no need for posh Japanese polishing kits.
So sorry, I thought hamon ment temperline or "Badge of the edge"
as does Yakiba.
Surely tempering not hardening the blade creates the wavy line along the edge
that in japan is called a hamon.
Regards, Mart.
Hi mate cool knife. Is the blade differentialy tempered to form the 'hamon'
If I were you I would get a japanese sword cleaning kit, that will keep your blade clean without harming the temper line.
Try http://www.ninecircles.co.uk/
Choji oil smells a bit mind.
Regards, Mart
PS, the temperline looks like castle rigg stone circle in a blizard.
Actually I already have a sword cleaning kit (I use it to clean my swords ), but it's not really necessary for this knife.
The blade is actually differentially hardened (tempering is a different process) and yeah, it's that process that creates the hamon.
The blade is covered in clay, thick clay on the spine and thin clay on the edge. Then the blade is heated and when the crystaline structure of the steel changes, the blade is quenched in either oil or brine. If the steel cools very quickly, then the hard crystals that formed are "locked" into place, if the steel cools slowly, those crystals are lost and the steel returns to being relatively soft. Where the clay is thick on the spine, you get a softer, tougher bit of blade because it cooled slower and where the clay was thin, you get a hard, sharp bit of blade because it cooled fast. The hamon is the transition zone between the 2 areas.
In traditional Japanese blades, the blade is "polished" with a very, very fine abrasive until the hamon pops out. But with my knife, the hamon has been revealed with an acid etch. That makes it much easier to look after and if the hamon goes faint, I just wipe the blade with some acid again to bring it back.
Sooooooo..... no need for posh Japanese polishing kits.
So sorry, I thought hamon ment temperline or "Badge of the edge"
as does Yakiba.
Surely tempering not hardening the blade creates the wavy line along the edge
that in japan is called a hamon.
Regards, Mart.
No mate, tempering is done at low temperatures which subtely "tune" the degree to which a blade edge has been hardened, a process that is done to steel which has already been hardened. For example, you would temper a hardened carbon steel blade at around 200C for an hour or so to temper it down to about 59 rockwell. You can get a crude temper line by playing a blowtorch on the spine of a hardened blade and watching the colours, but this is not a hamon. You dont get these bright crisp hamons with all the crystaline activity by tempering. The hamon is created by the hardening process, when the martensite crystals get locked into place with a rapid quench and the hamon is the transition from hard martensite to the soft pearlite of the spine.
You can sometimes get a temper line as mentioned, but the bright hamons of Japanese swords (and this knife) are created by hardening. The Japanese use clay as I have described to achieve this.
Differential tempering and differential hardening are two different processes, hamons are created by differential hardening.
Wiki explains it better than me....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hamon_(swordsmithing)
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...actually, we were talking abouyt hamons on BB just the other day, check this out...
This is staggering.
Swordsmith Walter Sorrells' gallery, scroll down to the 3rd sword....
http://www.waltersorrells.com/blades/gallery.htm
That is the most amazing thing I've ever seen. Can you imagine the metallurgical voodoo required to get your hamon looking like that - intentionally?
Amazing.
This is staggering.
Swordsmith Walter Sorrells' gallery, scroll down to the 3rd sword....
http://www.waltersorrells.com/blades/gallery.htm
That is the most amazing thing I've ever seen. Can you imagine the metallurgical voodoo required to get your hamon looking like that - intentionally?
Amazing.