My first carving knife

[ValeTudoGuy]

I bought a Mora 162 today with a mind to learning to make bowls, cups and spoons.

Firstly did I get the right tool? Secondly.... Where do I start??? I have some Birch and Sycamore, is a spoon the best place to start? Is there anything I need to know specifically or do I just crack on and mess a few up.

 

[SoldierPalmer]

I would sharpen it before you do anything my 162 came pretty blunt and they can take a nasty chunk out of you being double edged. Being lazy with the tool I put too much energy into a stoke once and buried into my tendon on my left index finger.

Its a rather small tool good for spoons and fine for final workings on bigger bowls and kasas. Just practise on scrap wood until you get used to it.

 

[Robson Valley]

Find some dowel or tubing approx 3/4" diameter. Wrap strips of abrasive (Fine automotive finishing sandpapers) 600/800/1000/1500 around those mandrels for sharpening.
Office filing cards and chrome green for honing will work well.

SoldierPalmer makes a crucial point = the double edge is dangerous with any lapse in attention. Leather glove when sharpening & honing.
Pacific Northwest native style carving knives are likewise double edged, so is a Mora #188. I have cut myself to the bone before I noticed.

If you're game to revise a bevel from 25 degrees to 12 degrees,
any farrier's crooked hoof knives make nice single-edged carving tools, Mora #171 and #172 as examples.

 

[ValeTudoGuy]

Thanks, I will have a go at sharpening it and have the stuff needed. I have only just got to a point where im happy with my sharpening of straight knives though.
I really don't want to hurt myself due to a blunt tool though.

 

[Robson Valley]

You'll do just fine. Sharpening straight and crooked/curved edges is just more valuable skills to learn.

 

[ValeTudoGuy]

Well I had a go. Even after taking into consideration the warnings here.... I ended up hitting a knot in the spoon and stupidly tried to just plough through it.... I deflected and hit my forearm. Luckily just a glancing scratch!





Getting there, just need some finishing and sanding.

 

[Robson Valley]

See if you can even up the rim and thin it in the process. Makes the bowl look bigger/deeper.
Do your best not to bleed on a carving, OK?. Practicaly impossible to carve off, wet or dry.

That's your first spoon? You must keep it above all others. Great start.

 

[mikehill]

A small hatchet can speed up the process, I found using a knife for roughing out tiresome. Also .. new toys to buy !

 

[Hammock Hamster]

Everyone has to sacrifice some blood to appease the carving gods once in a while, call it an occupational hazard.

Silly question but are you using the 162 for the whole carving?
Nothing wrong with that but a good knife will give you a lot more control and make the carving easier, a mora clipper or companion goes for £10-15 and you won't find much better for spoon carving.


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[ValeTudoGuy]

This is what I used to make it:


I managed not to bleed on it. Lol

It will be a keeper for sure, though I am far from finished with it.

Re kit, I already have plans on a Mora 106 or 120 and the Mora Draw knife.

The Hultafors did a pretty decent job but I also have plans for a Carpenters Axe and a Small Splitting Axe... Perhaps the Husqvarna pair?

Im also looking at the flexi cut knives.

 

[Robson Valley]

Do consider a spokeshave for shaping the handle. Many handles are spoke-shaped.
The design of a spokeshave makes the depth of the cut far easier to control than with a draw knife
which is OK for the rough part. I use a Stubai draw knife and adzes to round off split woods
Samona spokeshaves are cheap, easily adjusted and excellent blade steel.

 

[ValeTudoGuy]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I think this is the start of a really fun journey!

 

[Zingmo]

Despite how it often described, The Mora "draw knife" is actually sold as a "wood splitting knife", so may not be quite what you imagine.

https://morakniv.se/en/product-category/all-knives/woodcarving-knives/wood-splitting-knives/

Of course once you have a tool which requires both hands, you will need something to hold the work. Then you will be off into the world of shave horses and spoon mules...

Z

 

[Hammock Hamster]

I have the mora draw knife which many will tell you is a push only knife and as Zingmo says is marketed as a splitting knife. I use mine all the time for carving and have found it works well pushing away from yourself and as a draw knife pulling towards you, on a safety note make sure your elbows are locked to your sides when pulling towards yourself. If they are away from your body it is possible for the blade to hit your torso at speed if you slip.


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[MartiniDave]

I have a mora 162, simply couldn't get on with it as it came, so I removed the handle and replaced it with one about twice the length of the original one, I now find it much better.
I have to admit I stole the idea from Robin Wood, having seen his spoon knife designs.
I also sometimes use a spokeshave, a very versatile tool and a safe way to get youngsters involved in carving.

Dave