Leather rivets

[Stanleythecat]

Hi All

Do you now what rivets GB use on their axe masks and what leather (or similar!). As their is now stitching I was wondering if this might be a quicker alternative... I need to make a couple up and any help would be really helpful.

Many thanks

Leo

 

[rancid badger]

I think they use some sort of cheap, tubular copper rivet, similar to these:http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/rivet-65., whatever they actually use,they are pretty useless, and the leather they use is frankly of shocking quality, given the price they charge for their tools-excellent though they are.

If you want to do a real job , that will actually protect both you from the axe cutting edge and the edge from damage, as well as pretty much last a liftime, then you need to use these:http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/copper-rivets.html
But if you want to use them, you also need this:http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/copper-rivet-tool.htm

Then of course you're going to need some decent hide, ideally oak or at least "vegetable" tanned and at least 3.5mm thick.

I'd suggest just simply copying the original mask, using it as a template. Don't forget to add a decent welt between the two sides of the mask and see where you end up.

Something like this;




Once you get the measure of these, it's a doddle but it's one of the leather working skills that takes time and patience to master. I practiced on scrap leather till I had it just so.

I must have gone through at least 15-20 rivets before mastering the skills required.

Might not sound much but these aren't exactly cheap and there's a bit more to it, than just sticking the rivet through a punched hole, putting the washer on and battering away with a hammer

good luck

Steve

 

[rancid badger]

Just a thought:

You can get away with just saddle stitching,:

but you need to ensure you have a well laminated welt, as well as a good distance from the edge of the blade to the edge of the mask(if that makes sense?)

cheers

Steve

 

[Stanleythecat]

Thanks guys.

I'm a complete novice when it comes to leather. I'm rehandling some restored old kent pattern axes and will need a couple so your advice is priceless.

What do you mean by welt? Is that the sandwich of leather around the edge?

Leo

Ps those masks are fantastic!

 

[rancid badger]

That's it yes. The welt is indeed sandwiched between the two outer layers.

The second mask has a particularly wide welt, which is why there is such a step between the mask and the metal.

 

[Stanleythecat]

Steve, I did ask this in an earlier thread but was daunted by my own ignorance! What tools would I need for the stitched mask?

Thanks again

Leo

 

[rancid badger]

Right then Leo,pm on it's way shortly

 

[leon-1]

Leo, leather craft tools are basic.

An awl with a rhombic blade rather than round, it's easier to push through the leather than a round blade.
Saddlers needles size 1 (they are good general purpose needle).
An adjustable stitch groover.
Craft knife and cutting mat.

For marking stitches you can use a pricking iron or pricking wheel, however they are quite expensive. Some people use overstitch wheels as an alternative. You could use a fork for marking your stitches.

For burnishing the edge I use a bone folder, but you can use any good smooth hard plastic. A Bic biro works.

The saddlers rivets (the copper ones) have quite a technique to use, but do a search for videos by the duluth pack company. You can find ones which show someone setting saddlers rivets so you'll get the idea.

 

[Stanleythecat]

Thanks Leon-1. Really appreciate the advice. Can iask the reason for burnishing?

Leo

 

[leon-1]

Thanks Leon-1. Really appreciate the advice. Can i ask the reason for burnishing?

Leo

Hi Leo, you burnish the edge to seal it.

A lot of people use things like edgecote to finish an edge, but edgecote invariably won't match the colour of the dye that you have chosen. Commercially edgecote is just one option, but you can also buy gum tragacanth. You can also use sugared water to glaze the edge or just lick the edge to moisten it and use the sugars which are in your saliva to help do the job.

I use gum tragacanth for any commercial product. I then use an acrylic sealant over the top called resolene. Finally I wax the whole thing and rub down after the wax has had time to set, I'll rub the leather down until I get no more wax coming off on a cloth. This will produce a good glossy shine.

 

[tommy the cat]

Some great advice guys.
I made a sheath for a knife I made and really enjoyed the process. I keep thinking I should makes some more stuff maybe to sell as money is a bit tight!!! Mind I can see why prices for leather goods arnt cheap 😳 even the materials now cost an arm and a leg!!

 

[leon-1]

Some great advice guys.
I made a sheath for a knife I made and really enjoyed the process. I keep thinking I should makes some more stuff maybe to sell as money is a bit tight!!! Mind I can see why prices for leather goods arnt cheap  even the materials now cost an arm and a leg!!

Yeah, there's the cost of materials, but to be honest it's the time that's a killer, between the cutting out, grooving, stitch marking, dying, punching, stitching, edgeing, burnishing of edges polishing / waxing and final burnishing a possibles pouch can take days to make (even weeks if the weather isn't with you). In many ways it's easier to do in bulk as it's all done as a process with one thing following another.

 

[tommy the cat]

Leon I quite agree my one sheath took an age..... I guess once a pattern in sorted then at least there is a process that can be repeated... If love to be able to do some of the embossing and carving I've seen 😳 d

 

[rancid badger]

Anyone wanting to get into leather working:- buy Al Stohlmans "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" it tells you everything you need to know to get going and beyond.

It'll cost you a tenner plus postage and save you, potentially, many times that amount.

Steve

 

[leon-1]

Anyone wanting to get into leather working:- buy Al Stohlmans "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" it tells you everything you need to know to get going and beyond.

It'll cost you a tenner plus postage and save you, potentially, many times that amount.

Steve

Yeah the Al kit is cool. His belts are unreal. His kit sells for £300 plus at this day and age for the real basic stuff.

The big thing is really stitching, you change the way you stitch and it looks like a sack of poo. It's a process and keeping that as a basic is actually more difficult more than most people think, especially when stitching the likes of a lined ranger belt.

 

[Pignut]

Hi All

Do you now what rivets GB use on their axe masks and what leather (or similar!). As their is now stitching I was wondering if this might be a quicker alternative... I need to make a couple up and any help would be really helpful.

Many thanks

Leo

I use copper nails to make my own rivets (for leather work or light steel) I could pop up a "how to" if your interested.

Looks like this when done (bad picture)

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