Initial sharpening of a Grohmann Boat knife?

[simonsays]

Ok folks, heres my question. My lovely new Grohmann knife arrived this morning (Cheers Tomtom!) and I see it comes factory sharpened with a small secondary bevel. The included instructions advise that this secondary bevel is maintained as it increases the working life of the edge. This seems to go against much of the advice I have read and also against the instruction I was given on a recent bushcraft course. Sooooo, assuming I intend to put the knife to 'average' bushcraft duties (Some carving, food prep and maybe some battoning) am I better off keeping or getting rid of the secondary bevel?

I'm reasonably happy maintaining a single beveled edge using waterstones and a strop, my £15 Mora is now 'interestingly' sharp but have no real experience of looking after secondary bevels.

Cheers,
Simon

ps Anyone who met me at the recent 'Greenhorn' course will see where my new avatar is coming from.........

 

[Andy]

removing the secondary bevel will weaken the edge. The steel is amazing so I don't quite know how it will hold up. I intend to put mine on a belt sander to change the bevel. My concern is if you just lay the main bevel flat on a stone the angle may be very shallow. 20degrees is popular for bushcraft knives so if you sharpen it at that and then blend it into the main bevel by convexing it you may be on to a winner.
Are you using the handle slabs that came with it? at the moment I put a para cord wrap on it until I go home. We have some beach which I may use.

 

[simonsays]

removing the secondary bevel will weaken the edge. The steel is amazing so I don't quite know how it will hold up. I intend to put mine on a belt sander to change the bevel. My concern is if you just lay the main bevel flat on a stone the angle may be very shallow. 20degrees is popular for bushcraft knives so if you sharpen it at that and then blend it into the main bevel by convexing it you may be on to a winner.
Are you using the handle slabs that came with it? at the moment I put a para cord wrap on it until I go home. We have some beach which I may use.

I'm going to use the supplied scales as I've decided to keep this knife as near to 'stock' as possible. I do intend to reshape the scales to make them a little rounder in some places but thats about it.
On the issue of sharpening.. It really seems bizzare that 6 months ago the only way to sharpen a knife in my house was to put it through the nasty electric sharpener. Now I live in a world of primary/secondary bevels,scandi and sabre grinds and concaving/convexing...... The sound of a knife being worked on a stone is quite relaxing to me but seems to drive SWMBO crackers!

simon

 

[Stew]

We have some beach which I may use.

for what? Flying a kite?

This is how I'm handling my flat ground #1.


Click for bigger version

 

[Hoodoo]

I would try using the knife first to see how it performs. If you want to boost the performance for cutting wood, you can 1) remove the secondary bevel entirely by flattening the grind or 2) convex the edge, which will greatly enhance the edge for woodcraft

I have a flat ground boat knife with a tiny secondary bevel that has been convexed and it carves wood wonderfully.

 

[Ravenn]

I'm with Hoodoo on using it first. I have a #3 that is sabre ground, that I carried for about 5 years, then made a "Hoodoo Hone" and convexed the edge. Doesn't cut as well as my North Star, but sure isn't far behind!

 

[tomtom]

I have a #3 that is sabre ground

with a secondry bevel?

 

[Ravenn]

Tomtom

I believe that is what is referred to as a secondary bevel in your area. To me, secondary bevel is the actual edge bevel.
A sabre grind would be where the blade stock thicknes is retained down about 1/2 of the blade, then it is ground down , and the "secondary"(edge) bevel added.
i'm probably being as clear as mud here

 

[Ravenn]

Like these

http://www.postknives.com/model280..jpg

 

[Stew]

To me, secondary bevel is the actual edge bevel.

That's what the generally accepted term is!