Hiking the Albanian coastline (pic heavy)

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Nightfly

On a new journey
Dec 22, 2010
26
0
ANC
Had the pleasure of hiking the south Albanian coast this summer, not far from the Greek border in the Drino Valley. The idea was to hike south to Sarande, following the coastline as much as possible. This isn't always easy, as the coastline is volcanic in nature and consists of incredibly sharp serrated rock.
The forecast was rather good, clear blue skies and temperatures well into the 40 degree Centigrade range. So I'd be needing plenty of water to drink and frequent cooling off dips in the Adriatic. A friend of mine, who had sensibly chosen to do a more circuitous tour of Albania on a Ducati offroad bike, would meet me in Sarande, 9 days later, for the ride back to the airport.

I also wanted to try out the SeaPack desalination kit that claims to supply half a liter of drinkable water in about 6 hours. It did. No prize for taste, but it is supposed to be a life saver, not a refreshing drink to lift your spirits.

The coastline is dotted with deep caves and thick pine forest. I had done this once before, so I decided to travel light and only bring a wool blanket and a lightweight tarp for sleeping. The tarp was mainly used to keep the sun off of myself and sometimes as protection from getting brained by falling pine cones the size of mangoes. Cricket sound pollution also made me head for the caves. The caves provided a cool, quiet and mostly dry place to sleep.

Knife wise, I brought a multitool, a Mora 510 and a Mitchell Muntjac that I wanted to try out. Although probably perceived more as a hunting knife, I like the Muntjac for general purpose jobs as it is compact and lightweight and has a versatile blade shape.

The Mora had to do most of the work, as I did not want to expose the desert ironwood on the Mitchell to salt water...
The 510 pried limpets off the rocks and coped with all other tasks without a hitch, just a bit of staining and pitting on the blade, which cleaned up nicely once I got home.

I still have homework to do on Albania's geological past. I saw channels cut in the rock that must have been there for a very long time and were clearly man made geometric patterns.
The nature is quite stunning and still devoid of tourists. I had beautiful blue lagoons all to myself and it was nice not to have to worry about being scolded for lighting a fire. Progress was very slow in the heat of the day, but I did make it to Sarande in time and managed to secure my ride back to Tirana.

My daughter supplied the tiger for good luck and company. It worked.


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cbr6fs

Native
Mar 30, 2011
1,620
0
Athens, Greece
Great pics.

I do a fair bit of fishing around the coasts of Greece and can sympathise, it's REALLY tough going and the rocks are relentless in waiting to strip skin off or break your ankles.

I'm not much of a fan of the summer months so don't tend to camp out much in summer, if i do i always take earplugs as the crickets will drive you insane with their chirping.
 
Nov 29, 2004
7,808
23
Scotland
Great pics! Thanks for posting. :)

I have walked the coastlines of Greece and Turkey and imagine that Albania must be similar, it looks it in your photos. The plant life is quite hostile, bushes are always thorny and are very strong and springy, there are many 'chicken mesh' like thorny plants at foot level, these can easily prevent you moving in the direction you want and working your way around them isn't always easy. Insect life can be a pain, apart from the noisy crickets cbr6fs mentioned, mosquitos, a particularly aggressive flying beetle type thing and ants can make your nights a misery. The rocks are generally always very sharp and often treacherous under foot. If all of the above were not enough, the heat and lack of water can be a real killer.

With the above said, the landscape is quite beautiful, If you walk in the spring the flowers and butterflies in the high meadows can make you think you've stepped into paradise and with few exceptions the people are friendly and generous.

How did you cope with the insects?
How did your clothing and boots fare?
Did you meet many locals, how was that experience?

More pics please. :)
 
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Nightfly

On a new journey
Dec 22, 2010
26
0
ANC
Thanks folks, I appreciate the nice comments and always enjoy seeing pictures of your trips.

The insects were not too fierce, but as you said, the occasional blackfly or horsefly can be extremely annoying and persistent. My main adversaries were swarms of red ants and at night the mosquitos came out in droves. I used lots of repellent, a mozzie headnet for sleeping and as much smoke as I could bear. There's eucalyptus in abundance, which helped a great deal.

Sweat and seawater pretty much destroyed the cotton clothing, I brought gaiters to deal with some of the low vegetation, but they barely got used as it was way too hot. My boots took a royal beating. Mainly the soles though, they got cut up by the sharp rock but held up pretty well.

All local people met were friendly (some fishermen gave me 2 dorades and some large crayfish/shrimp neatly wrapped in waxed paper, refused payment for it). I did not see all that many along the coast but the people I did see mostly kept to themselves and so did I. I felt no hostility or other bad vibes. My tarp and waterproof stuff sack are brightly coloured in case I need to attract attention, but my clothing and pack were not. Just kept a low profile. I have some more pics I'll put up later (you asked! :))

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redandshane

Native
Oct 20, 2007
1,581
0
Batheaston
What a great destination Albania has always interested me
I have met a few Albanians in Greece and in UK and they are really nice people. Being Scottish we relate to each other quite well I find
More pics and details of your trip would be great
Thanks for sharing this
 
Nov 29, 2004
7,808
23
Scotland
"...Sweat and seawater pretty much destroyed the cotton clothing, I brought gaiters to deal with some of the low vegetation, but they barely got used as it was way too hot. My boots took a royal beating. Mainly the soles though, they got cut up by the sharp rock but held up pretty well..."

I know what you mean, after a while I was down to football shorts and leather sandals, after a few days you get used to the thorns. :)

"...Being Scottish we relate to each other quite well I find..."

Small country in Europe?
Overshadowed by more powerful neighbours?

:)
 
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