hi all ive just been given a helle laplander by my little sis. ive never used a HELLE knife before are they any good as this is my first sami pattern knife and dont want to waste my time if it no good ?????
helle laplander (sami pattern)
- Thread starter paulbibby
- Start date
-
Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.
No mate they are rubbish, send it to me and I'll get rid of it for you
They're good knives, if a trifle big (for me)
Helle are very good knives. Enjoy it.
Dave
Edited to add - I'd reccomend hot-waxing the sheath, they can sometimes be a bit flimsy, especially considering the edge a Helle can take and hold!
Dave
Edited to add - I'd reccomend hot-waxing the sheath, they can sometimes be a bit flimsy, especially considering the edge a Helle can take and hold!
i've got a Helle S80, stainless steel, curly birch handle and it hold an edge. I would take the factory grind off it though with a dc4 or whatever you've got.
Nothing fancy but useable knife.
Nothing fancy but useable knife.
I've never managed to get that good an edge on my fjellkniven any suggestions. I can however get my mora seriously sharp.
I either use the full waterstone/strop set up or a DC4 on my Helle Eggen. Never a problem getting a truly wicked edge. I do tend to strop little and often though.
Dave
Dave
cheers all im well impressed by your replies (i also thaught the sheath was a tad flimsy but i made a new liner for the sheath from 1.5mm kydex just to protect the leather)
Took my Helle Eggan with me on an 8 day bushcraft wilderness canoeing trip to Sweden in the summer.
It stood up realy well to some real battering,it was used for battoning every day and still had a very useable sharp edge (for food prep,and the like) at the end of the trip.
Not many better knives out there for the £50 mark,I would suggest!
Regards.
C da C.
It stood up realy well to some real battering,it was used for battoning every day and still had a very useable sharp edge (for food prep,and the like) at the end of the trip.
Not many better knives out there for the £50 mark,I would suggest!
Regards.
C da C.
Have used a Helle Fjellkniven for the last 4+ years: all over the place, and in all climates.
Excellent & reliable knife. Have had no problems with sharpening it . Use a course and fine diamond stones, then strop to finish. Shaves a treat!
Don't be tempted to buy one in Norway though - way more expensive that the UK!
Excellent & reliable knife. Have had no problems with sharpening it
. Use a course and fine diamond stones, then strop to finish. Shaves a treat! Don't be tempted to buy one in Norway though - way more expensive that the UK!
There used to be an excellent hot-waxing tutorial on the now defunct Outdoors Magazine site.
Basically melt some beeswax.
Gently - and I do mean gently - warm the leather of the sheath then with an old tootbrush or similar apply the melted wax.
When you first start it will quickly look pretty awful, you'll think "My god what have I done" but stick at it and keep brushing more wax on/into the leather.
Once the coating is even let it cool off, then give it a good buff up and maybe a coat of boot-polish to make it look pretty.
It's worth checking the knife fit while the sheat cools, as its possible to re-mould the sheath a bit for a better fit at this time. Also you can re-warm the sheath to adjust fit at a later time if you like.
Here's a link to an article on Ragnars Forge :-
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/index.php/Forums.html
Dave
Basically melt some beeswax.
Gently - and I do mean gently - warm the leather of the sheath then with an old tootbrush or similar apply the melted wax.
When you first start it will quickly look pretty awful, you'll think "My god what have I done" but stick at it and keep brushing more wax on/into the leather.
Once the coating is even let it cool off, then give it a good buff up and maybe a coat of boot-polish to make it look pretty.
It's worth checking the knife fit while the sheat cools, as its possible to re-mould the sheath a bit for a better fit at this time. Also you can re-warm the sheath to adjust fit at a later time if you like.
Here's a link to an article on Ragnars Forge :-
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/index.php/Forums.html
Dave
Similar threads
