Frosts Fanclub
- Thread starter Wilderbeast
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These knives are a lot stronger than many people think.
I do break an odd one but it's usually when i have been hammering them, sometimes it's easier to use my knife than go and get a chisel
This one broke when i used it as a lever and bent it past 90 degrees, the handle didn't fail , nor did it show any sign of failing.
A full tang version of the same knife would not have faired any better.
Try splitting a handle, i have several times and in the end i ran this through a bandsaw to get inside
I do break an odd one but it's usually when i have been hammering them, sometimes it's easier to use my knife than go and get a chisel
This one broke when i used it as a lever and bent it past 90 degrees, the handle didn't fail , nor did it show any sign of failing.
A full tang version of the same knife would not have faired any better.
Try splitting a handle, i have several times and in the end i ran this through a bandsaw to get inside
that is why A/. I dont like battoning and carry an axe for wood splitting....and B/. use a wooden handled (of my own making) Jonssons Mora blade If I was looking for a knife to use for battoning I too would like a full tang model - but then I tend not to batton much even when using my full tang blades....
But no nice nessies with a full antler crown handle
Darn...... I never thought anybody would remember!!!!.. The blade is still waiting for the right crown to come along 
Blade did not bend on mine, it just tore through the handle.
I just don't get why they don't put another 2in of metal in the handle.
The reason why I wish it was full tang is because for me the knife is my primary tool. I always have it on my belt, inlike my axe and saw. That is why I like a robust knife that I can depend on even when I don't have my pack with all the other tools. I would not feel comfortable in the woods with just a 3 or 4 in Mora and no axe. It would be a much more viable option for me if they had a full tang model. The only similar knives with full tang seem to be customs, at 20 times the price of a mora.
I just don't get why they don't put another 2in of metal in the handle.
The reason why I wish it was full tang is because for me the knife is my primary tool. I always have it on my belt, inlike my axe and saw. That is why I like a robust knife that I can depend on even when I don't have my pack with all the other tools. I would not feel comfortable in the woods with just a 3 or 4 in Mora and no axe. It would be a much more viable option for me if they had a full tang model. The only similar knives with full tang seem to be customs, at 20 times the price of a mora.
So were you thumping the spine when it went ?
I have really pushed the clippers but never tested a Mora to destruction, must give it a go.
I rarely batton a knife right through a piece of wood, i usually make a few wedges and only use the knife to start the split, the wedges do all the work, that way you can split massive logs with a little stick tang.
I am reminded of the old saying, " you can scratch your bum without breaking the skin"
Which models? I would love to have a look.
I know that I can get around with a small tang if I had to, but my point was why should we have to do that when it would take maybe another $1 to make a much stronger full tang knife.
I know that I can get around with a small tang if I had to, but my point was why should we have to do that when it would take maybe another $1 to make a much stronger full tang knife.
Blades only
http://www.attacc.com/acatalog/FROSTS_OF_MORA___KNIFE_MAKING.html
or they are available as finished knives
http://www.attacc.com/acatalog/FROSTS_OF_MORA___KNIFE_MAKING.html
or they are available as finished knives
Your quite right there is certainly an argument for a full tang or a more substantial mortised tang (Allen Blade used to do some really good ones).
I guess at the end of the day the Frosts knives are not specifically manufactured for bushcrafters who want to batton them is the answer to why they don't make them stronger.
They are made as utility knives and they probably exceed the specs for the tasks they were originally designed to do.
Ive got two (stainless & a carbon) and reckon they are great, im defo feeling the love for the Mora down in the South East!
annother mora lover here.
I use a clipper, and the origional sheath, with some duct tape on the back of the mouth area (the outward side of the belt clip) to improve retention. I also used some thin cord to wrap the handle (mainly because it looks better). while I would love a better sheath, for £10 who's complaining?
I use a clipper, and the origional sheath, with some duct tape on the back of the mouth area (the outward side of the belt clip) to improve retention. I also used some thin cord to wrap the handle (mainly because it looks better). while I would love a better sheath, for £10 who's complaining?
I am a proud owner of several Frosts blades. My orange/orange 760 finished a 200 lb. wild hog, with a little poke to the heart, then skinned, and quartered it, and only needed a bit of a strop to get back to shaving sharp. I love these blades, without a doubt some of the sharpest in my collection.
Why don't people like the sheaths? I've got a couple of the red wooden handled blades and they're great. You won't find another sheath which holds the blade so well, drains, protects you and the blade and is as light. The sheaths may be on the ugly sidce but they are far more practical than a lot of manufacturers sheaths are.
I don't like them because the retention on them is fairly useless (in the case of the clipper) after a short time of use, the locking bump on the sheath wears down, and youre left with a loosely fitting knife in a sheath that feels none to secure. but that could just be me, my ideal level of retention would allow me to hang it upside-down. my main worry is that I sometimes use it while climbing up stuff that is being built (treehouse style platforms made with pioneering poles for example) and I don't want it dropping out the sheath and hitting someone below.
