Carving tools

[Teal]

So...I am moving on from spoons to bowls (and have a massive load of oak-see other thread) and I want to expand my tools collection to suit.

Currently I have a couple of mora 106's, a mora hook knife, a Robin Wood axe and a husqvarna hatchet (which I use for splitting etc). I also have a range of saws; normal DIY stuff and a bahco bowsaw.

I have just taken delivery of a Bulgarian made bowl adze off amazon, hopefully it will be ok but I can't justify a £150 adze anyway. Review will follow in due course.

What else should I add? I think some gouges, but do I need to be spending £50 a gouge on Hans Karlsson or will a wider range of pfeil gouges be better value? Which designs and sizes do people find most useful?

I'm also looking at draw knives, will a standard Ray Illes 8" be ok? Again, one can spend a lot more!

Froes- I kind of want one for its old fashion randomness, but do they really offer any advantage for splitting?

Finally, and less immediately, are cheap chainsaws ever worth it?

 

[Wayne]

Lot of questions there to provoke a healthy discussion.

I have a number of pfiel gouges. They work well and I am rather fond of their draw knife as well.

I have around 20 draw knives. Lots of different designs. I don't own a a ray Iles one but there other tools are pretty good so I can't see why their drawknife should be an different. I source mine from eBay, junk shops and car boot sales.

A good froe is a fantastic tool. I own several for different tasks. I cleave my bow staves using a froe on 10 inch diameter 8 foot long logs. Also used when I'm pole lathe turning and a smaller one for Kelly kettle fuel and fan birds.

I use a Stilh MS261 but whilst I don't chainsaw often when I do its for 8 hours at a time. A smaller Stilh or Husky will not be too expensive but remember proper PPE adds up. Plus get some training on their use. Chainsaws always win in a fight with skin. The cheaper chainsaws will be fine for occassional light use but you may struggle to source parts etc.

 

[forrestdweller]

cheap chainsaws (or tool in general) : you get what you pay for, I'd recommend saving up for a good one if you really​ need one. AND make sure how to use it safely and ​get proper safety equipment as well!


a splitting wedge (and sledgehammer) might come in handy for splitting bigger pieces to size.....

 

[mrcharly]

I wouldn't rush to buy more tools.

First I'd do a lot of reading of Robin Woods site - and concentrate on making a workshop area. Do some practise bowls and work out what type you are likely to want to make.

TBH, whenever I do any woodwork, I find myself pretty much using the same few favourite tools. It's with use that you'll find out which are your favourites.

 

[ceryni]

Froes are always favoured by pros for their hardcore splitting abilities and control. I know a guy that has a dozen of different ones. He shingles entire houses with oak tiles.


I definitely second the chainsaw training. Even if you don't own one yet. Should be the first thing .

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[Teal]

Thanks guys- with respect to chainsaws; I am not that keen, frankly they scare the crap out of me, (I have seen a few nasty industrial accidents that leave me in no doubt how wrong it could.go) but I am pondering doing a course as I can see the utility, especially for firewood etc. My question was really promptwd by seeing a 2 stroke aldi chainsaw for £80 last night whilst shopping, is that ever going to be a good idea for anyone?!

 

[Teal]

Thanks for your thought so far. which gouges do people own/favour? I wouldn't plan to own more than a couple but I am not sure which size/curvature/neck type combo is most useful?

Ending up with lots of expensive tools is exactly what I want to avoid. I think I'm looking at adding a draw knife and a gouge.

Workshop etc is cool, i have half a garage and I have built a low holdfast bench for holding stuff in place. I also have sledge and wedges.

 

[Macaroon]

I wouldn't rush to buy more tools.

First I'd do a lot of reading of Robin Woods site - and concentrate on making a workshop area. Do some practise bowls and work out what type you are likely to want to make.

TBH, whenever I do any woodwork, I find myself pretty much using the same few favourite tools. It's with use that you'll find out which are your favourites.

You won't get better advice than this.

 

[Hammock Hamster]

+1 on a selection of pfiel gouges, I also have several and I wouldn't move away from them.
Froes are an excellent piece of kit and really to help both in terms of speed and control if you are splitting down timber for carving blanks.
As already mentioned a draw knife is also a really handy addition for stripping bark and general shaping, you can pick them up from boot fairs or evilbay for a reasonable cost.


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[baggins]

you could also have a look at the Fexicut gouges, 1 handle and a range of different blades to suit, a much cheaper option and gives you a chance to work out what type of gouge you prefer without breaking the bank. they are a bit short though, so can be tricky in larger, deeper bowls.

 

[Robson Valley]

Bowl carving, especially big ones, seems to go in several stages:
Wood shaping: debarking a log piece, splitting and trimming. All good advice above for draw knives and froes.
Rough out: You need an adze with either a lip or a gutter profile. I use a Stubai, the edge is about 7/75.
Shaping: If you're experienced, keep going with the adze. If like me, time to switch to gouges, Pfeil are top quality tools.
With a mallet, use a 9/15 or bigger then a 5/35 then a 2/30 ought to bring the form to a nice surface.
Finishing: this is a task for a crooked knife, several with different sweeps. Scandanavian designs seem to have very little in the way of useful variety.
I owe them nothing but at least look at the variety from competent bladesmiths like Kestrel Tool and North Bay Forge.

Most importantly, you have to be consistent and sustain "carving sharp" edges otherwise, the enjoyment of this project will go into the toilet very quickly.