building a wannigan

[drewdunnrespect]

anyone built one of these? Are they any good? Any advice for novice builder?

heres a link to a set of instructions i found and also what got me interested in building one

http://nwwoodsman.com/Articales/Wannigan.html

 

[Fraxinus]

Drew, birch ply is very pricey, if you need something that will be used in damp conditions I suggest using a far eastern wbp grade ply. It's available at most good builders merchants and wood yards, though normally in 8'x4' sheets.
The site linked to looks interesting, will look further later. The Titebond glues referred to are excellent( just wish they used them in our workshop) and available from Axminster if you get stuck( no pun intended)
Wide boards of pine are hard to obtain so you may need the glue to make up the width with rubbed joints or by cramping several widths together. Hope this is of help.

 

[ForgeCorvus]

This sort of thing?
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1035/1407150836_9a7a9fb799.jpg?v=0

Its one of mine made from recycled pallet (with hand cut T&G edges on the planks the make up the boards) and cost me 5 quid for the metal bits
Thats an 8 X12 inch square on top BTW



Having problems with this picture lark

 

[sandbender]

anyone built one of these? Are they any good? Any advice for novice builder?
http://nwwoodsman.com/Articales/Wannigan.html

Great link thanks

Some time ago I built two wooden trunks to keep my gear in. I worked to plans described in an old camping book, I'll look it out for you.

Here is someone else who made some simple boxes to keep his gear organised...
http://www.blissonwheels.com/tentipi/in-the-tent.html#fryingpan
http://www.blissonwheels.com/tentipi/index.html

And here is a very pretty, but possibly heavy and not very water resistant wannigan...
http://www.gloversvillelibrary.org/fleischut3.jpg
http://www.gloversvillelibrary.org/fleischut2.jpg

 

[Sainty]

Looks nice and a good project. The only thing I would suggest is that it would be so much nicer to use dowels (hand cut by preference) instead of screws and mortice and tenon joints on the frame. I can't stand seeing screws on good joinery.

Martin

 

[drewdunnrespect]

thanx guys all advie really appeciated

 

[sandbender]

I constructed my 'wannigan's' using the dimensions mentioned in Horace Kephart's excellent book 'Camping and Woodcraft" published by University of the West Indies Press (ISBN-13: 978-0870495564).

This is the relevant paragraph...


"Camp chests are very convenient when it is
practicable to carry them. In fixed camp an old
trunk will do; but if you are traveling from place
to place, the boxes should be small, weighing not
over fifty or sixty pounds each when packed, so that
one man can easilv handle them unassisted. If they
are specially made, cottonwood is the best material
(if thoroughly seasoned boards can be had-other-
wise it warps abominably). It is the strongest and
toughest wood for its weight that we have, and
will not splinter. For the ends and lids of small
chests, 5/8-inch stuff is thick enough, and 3/8-inch
for the sides, bottoms and trays. The bottom
should have a pair of 5/8-inch cleats for risers and
the top a similar pair to keep it from warping, un-
less the chests are to go on pack animals. Strap-
hinges and hasp, a brass padlock and broad leather
end-straps (not drop-handles) should be provided,
and the chest painted.
The best size is 24 x 18 x 9 inches, this being
convenient for canoes and pack-saddles. A pine
grocery box of this size, with 3/4-inch ends and
3/8-inch sides, top, and bottom, weighs only 10
pounds, and will answer the purpose very well.
Screw a wooden handle on each end, say 5 x 2
inches, with a hand-hold gouged out of the under
side.

Chests intended to be used as hanging cupboard?
in camp should have shelf boards packed in them,
and a bread board for rolling out biscuit dough and
pastry. One box should be selected with a view
to using it as a camp refrigerator or spring box
(see Chapter XII). For a trip by wagon a regu-
lar " chuck box" may be built, with a drop front
for serving table (held by light chains when open).
This box is carried upright at the rear end of the
wagon a la cow outfit.
When cruising where there are no portages it
saves lots of time and bother if you build before-
hand a light mess chest partitioned to hold utensils
and all the food needed for, say, a week. This
may be fitted with detachable legs, and the lid
so fitted that. it is supported level when opened,
forming a table."

A search of this forum brought up these earlier threads which are also worth a browse...

http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34544
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10424

 

[BIGWOLFY]

hope this helps see link Teepee Plans 10' by Ernest Thompson Seton
http://www.inquiry.net/outdoor/native/skills/teepee.htm

good luck bigwolfy

 

[Humpback]

............. One box should be selected with a view
to using it as a camp refrigerator or spring box
(see Chapter XII).
quote]

Sandbender, any chance of you printing this section?
Alan

 

[sandbender]

Sandbender, any chance of you printing this section?
Alan

Taken from Horace Kephart's 'Camping and Woodcraft" published by University of the West Indies Press (ISBN-13: 978-0870495564)...

...At a cabin in the Smokies, where I lived alone
for three years, I had a spring box like the one
shown in Fig. 112, which kept things cool and safe
in the warmest weather, yet was easy for me to get

into. A short iron pipe at A entered the spring;
the box inclined slightly toward the outlet B; pails
and jars sat on flat rocks inside; the top was fas-
tened by the round stick C passing through auger
holes in the upright cleats...

 

[Ridge Runner]

If you can find a surplus U.S.A. 20mm ammo can it makes the perfect, watertight, wannigan for a canoe or for camping.

It is lightweight, sturdy, lockable and can be used with a trumpline. I can find them here in the states for under $20 USD.

Here is what they look like and dimensions:

http://west.loadup.com/military/surplus/1190.html

By the way, they make an excellent seat by the fire.

 

[bushwacker bob]

Looks nice and a good project. The only thing I would suggest is that it would be so much nicer to use dowels (hand cut by preference) instead of screws and mortice and tenon joints on the frame. I can't stand seeing screws on good joinery.

Martin

There arn't screws in good quality joinery.
If you see screws, its not good quality.