Should they be varnished or not - I read that a good canoe paddle shouldn't be varnished, but rather treated with oil, to stop blisters.
Axe handles?
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No they shouldn't, just raw linseed oil rubbed in -- once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year for life.
When I get hold of axes from boot markets I take the varnish off with with a sharp blade, it comes off real easy using a draw action.
Then very fine sandpaper.
After that what ^ they said.
Mind you, recently I got hold of a few litres of teak oil, I tried it out on two that recently came my way, it absorbs very quickly and seem OK.
Then very fine sandpaper.
After that what ^ they said.
Mind you, recently I got hold of a few litres of teak oil, I tried it out on two that recently came my way, it absorbs very quickly and seem OK.
robin wood
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Not wrong mate! I think most bushcrafters would have a heart attach if they saw the state of most professional axe user's tools. Except when I'm selling the things I don't think i've ever bothered sanding and oiling my axe handles and I can't remember any having a problem
With respect boys, One axe that I picked from a boot market was really rusty, and the handle was as dry as a bone with lots of cracks in it all over, the handle was 34 inches long.
I took it of the seller, and with some work on it plenty of linseed oil.
The cracks disappeared.
Purchase price £1.00 selling price £14.00 with everybody happy.
I took it of the seller, and with some work on it plenty of linseed oil.
The cracks disappeared.
Purchase price £1.00 selling price £14.00 with everybody happy.
With respect, the cracks didn't "disappear" they are still there. You could of got the same effect by sticking it in a bucket of water for a day, which is what I do to my caulking hammer when I need to use it. I don't mind the odd shake in a piece of wood but I wouldn't want to use an axe that had a lot of them.
As for varnish, do you want to use it or look at it, if you use it enough the oils from your skin will be enough to keep it happy.
As I understand (and forgive me if if I'm talking out of my hat here), with canoe paddles, it's not about looks but rather the varnish gives you blisters. Now with axes it might be different in that, unless you're using it all day, the aggravation from the varnish and sweat rubbing against your skin might not be that bad, but with a canoe paddle, the first rule seems to be, sand off the varnish and oil it to avoid blisters. It's practicality rather than aesthetics.
Not wrong mate! I think most bushcrafters would have a heart attach if they saw the state of most professional axe user's tools. Except when I'm selling the things I don't think i've ever bothered sanding and oiling my axe handles and I can't remember any having a problem
im sure back in the day of timber fallers that used axes looked after their's to the point of obsesion but im kinda with you. i like to look after my tools, i fixed up a splitting maul which i have now split countless loads with and keep telling myself 'i should really sand this handle down and soak the head again,' but it still hasnt happened
i may, because of this post give my maul a bit of tlc, but then again, will i?
lolpete
the strongest axe ive ever used is my uncles. oval pto shaft. will need something hard to brake that. don't need oil eather
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