Some of the very modern high end steels that are found on high end knives can be done both hard and tough. Very hard and they wear slowly when cutting abrasive substances like cardboard that has all sorts of rubbish in it. However, without toughness then impacting on hard objects with force or given prying lateral stresses and they tend to chip or snap. Any steel that is kept very keen and hits something stupid hard will take damage. So there are compromises to be made. Hard steels when they do take damage require hard sharpening grits like diamond to remove metal, or just a lot of time on softer wet stones. Milder tempered steels are easier to remove metal when sharpening, but wear faster. Softer steels edges roll faster though the blades are less likely to snap. Sadly, whatever is promised it really comes down to the luck in the blade if survives your use.
Exactly what is best, or what compromises have been made, and what results are found produces endless fire side discussion. Its the combination of steel, heat treatment and grinds and how its all been put together that give endless results... and how any user uses it. How hard, how tough, how strong, how keen it all can be kept, and what it takes to keep it working sharp? Plus how much luck is built into that blade. Occasionally a knife has no luck at all. Heck, if you lose it then no luck at all, though if someone finds it they might feel lucky.
Anyhow, as a good compromise knife the Terava's have my vote. From having having one then the quest for "something even better" can be taken. Better to get out there and practice your bushcraft skills with something half decent than have no tool at all from indecision and lack of finance to buy the sexiest light sabre that promises the earth. The Terava's are more than half decent. It won't be the last knife you buy.
Remember to budget for some sharpening kit. The Spyderco Sharpmaker ares good. The DMT red/green Diafold another good one too, and what I take into the field. Then there are loads of "system" sharpeners to be had. Paste and honing to be done too. I don't use, but others love, Japanese Waterstones. I do like Arkansas stones. Loads of ways to do it on the bench, even wet and dry sand paper as used for car bodywork.. I don't like the rip carbide systems though as they get through blade steel fast and leave a fragile edge. Really doesn't matter so long as the edge can be kept sharp and the grind kept keen. Steel or strop ten times for every full sharpen, little and often. Just budget for some choice sharpening kit.