Login

Partners

Bushcraft Ventures 
Bushcraft Expeditions 
Dryad Bushcraft 
Greenman Bushcraft 
Wildside Survival 
Woodcraft School 
Woodsmoke 
 
A Note on Indian Bow Making Print E-mail
Written by Dick Baugh   
Article Index
A Note on Indian Bow Making
Page 2

The engineer in me took over. What are the material properties which will yield a superior bow and how can I measure them? The things which matter are the elastic modulus (how much it stretches with a given tension), the tensile strength (how much tension is needed to break it), and how much it shrinks when it dries. In addition, it helps to define some other useful terms:

Potential energy: the ability to do work. When you pull the bowstring back you store potential energy in the bow limbs. The available potential energy is equal to the distance you pull the string back multiplied by the average force that it took to pull the string back to full draw. When you release the string the potential energy is transferred to the arrow, giving it . . .

Kinetic energy: the energy of motion. A perfectly efficient bow would transfer all of the available potential energy stored in the bow limbs into kinetic energy of the arrow.

Elastic modulus: a measure of how stiff a material is. Make a one inch cube out of the material and stretch it with a known force. The cube will get slightly longer. The elastic modulus is the force times the length of the block, divided by the area of the block times the distance the block stretched. Steel has an elastic modulus of 30 million psi (pounds per square inch), hickory has an elastic modulus of 2.2 million psi, black locust has 2.1 million psi, and the measurements I have made on yew wood give a figure of 1.2 million psi.

Tensile strength: keep pulling on that one inch cube of material and eventually you will pull it apart. The force per square inch that it takes to pull something apart is the tensile strength. For tempered steel the number is 400,000 psi, for hickory it is 20,000 psi.

For those of you who wonder: yes, it is very impractical to make these measurements on a one inch cube of material. The one inch cube was cited to emphasize the force per unit area nature of the experiment. In actual practice a much skinnier specimen of the material would be tested.

My measurement of the elastic modulus of a dried, solid horse tendon gave a figure of 411,000 psi. Similar measurements on yew wood yielded 1.16 million psi. This said, much to my surprise, that under the best of circumstances sinew had only 21 to 35 percent of the elastic modulus of wood. Put in other words, and leaving out the mathematical formulas, if you make a yew wood bow of 50 pounds pull and add more yew wood on the back to make the limbs 5 percent thicker, the resultant bow will have a 15 percent stronger pull or 57.5 pounds. If, instead of adding more wood on the back of the bow, you make the bow limb 5 percent thicker by adding sinew, the increase in draw with would only be 2.2 percent or an additional 1.8 pounds. Why bother adding a material to the back of the bow which doesn't add much to its strength? The other 'secret' ingredient must be shrinkage.
sinew3.jpgI was pretty well convinced that sinew shrank while it dried and this put the sinew backing under great tension. Did the amount of shrinkage depend on the type of glue used? The experiment to find this out was to glue sinew on the backs of two identical strips of 1/8 inch balsa wood. On the first one, the sinew was glued on with hide glue, on the second, the sinew was glued with Elmer's carpenter's glue. The two samples behaved identically. As the sinew dried and shrank it pulled the wood into a curved shape. This experiment showed little difference between the two types of glue, only that the sinew shrank as it dried. Again I took two identical 1/8 inch strips of balsa wood and put a thick strip of hide glue on one and a similar strip of Elmer's on the other (no sinew on either). This time there was a pronounced difference between the two. The hide glue shrank and curved the wood just as much as the sinew, and the Elmer's glue did not shrink at all. Moral of the story: don't use anything but hide glue for applying the sinew. Furthermore hide glue is 'compatible' with sinew since on a molecular level they are identical. The last experiment with sinew was to see exactly how much it shrank when it dried. I pinned one end of a strip of wet sinew to a piece of plywood, and pinned the other end to the short end of a stick that pivoted at one end. Now, when the sinew shrank, the long end of the lever would move through a greater distance and make the shrinkage easier to see. The result was that the sinew shrank 3 percent upon drying.
In conclusion one can say that the benefits of sinew backing on wood bows come from a combination of severalsinew4.jpg effects acting together. They are:
1. As the sinew dries and shrinks it puts the back of the bow under compression. As a consequence, the wood fibers on the back of the bow are not stressed as highly when the bow is drawn.
2. The sinew protects the back of the bow where it doesn't follow the grain.
3. The back of the bow, which is stretched a great deal at full draw, is now a material which can stretch 5 percent before breaking (wood can only stretch about 1 percent before breaking).

 


REFERENCES

Saxton T. Pope
1980
Bows and Arrows
University of California Press.

Reginald and Gladys Laubin
1923
American Indian Archery
University of Oklahoma Press



This article was first published in The Bulletin of Primitive Technology (Vol. 1 Spring 1994, #7)

Many thanks to Dick Baugh from www.primitiveways.com for supplying this article.

Comments (0)add
You must be logged in to a comment. Please register if you do not have an account yet.

busy

 

Latest Articles

Photography - Back to Basics (08.12.2008)

thumb_k10d.jpg We all love to take photographs and keep a record of what we've done and where we have been.  Michelle Jones  has written this article is for those starting out into photography so that you can get the most from your camera and what you are trying to capture.

Back to Basics is about getting more from your outdoor experience by increasing your skills in an area you might not have thought of before.

Fish Trap (01.04.2008)
thumb_fishtrap9.jpgI used Hazel wood. Choose the thin long shoots of wood which i would think are a couple of years old. If you don't catch anything at first don't worry. It may just be a case of changing a few things.
Birch Tar - How to collect it (23.02.2008)
thumb_tar13.jpg Most bushcrafters know that Birch bark is fantastic for fire lighting because of all the oil concealed within it. This tutorial guides you through the process of extracting that tar from the bark.
Wild Wine (Part 8) (28.11.2007)
thumb_wildwine6.jpgNow we could bung a label on (which should always say they type of wine and when it was bottled). I suggest you cross-reference to a book of recipes and notes so that when you get a cracking wine you can recreate it. We are going to add a little something to the presentation of the wine by putting a foil cap over the neck. First we drop a foil cap (available for a couple of pence from a wine shop) over the bottle neck.
Wild Wine (Part 7) (26.11.2007)
thumb_wildwine1.jpgRight, we now have clean, fined and filtered wine. We pour it into clean (yes and sterilised) bottles with a funnel. We need to cork it. Its possible to put corks in with a mallet. I use a corking gun and waxed corks that do not need to be soaked (plain corks do)
Wild Wine )Part 6) (23.11.2007)
thumb_wildwine1.jpgWell, the finings have worked – the wine is beautifully clear.

Most Popular Articles

Paracord Bracelet Tutorial (23.04.2007)
thumb_paracordbracelet16.jpgAs soon as I'd finished my Paracord Bracelet, I'd decided to write a tutorial on making one. A good thing considering the majority of the responses since I posted it were asking me how to do it! Here goes.. You will need approximately 3 metres of paracord with the ends already sealed/melted, and something to make a temporary knot - a twist tie or piece of string should suffice.
Tarps - Benefits and Basic Instructions (16.07.2007)

thumb_tarp1.jpgWhy a Tarp? In my quest to lighten my backpack I considered and, at first, rejected the use of a tarp instead of a tent. I liked the idea of a tarp, after all there are great advantages like....

How to Sharpen an Axe (09.07.2007)
thumb_axesharpening21.jpgI have been asked a number of times recently to provide some advice of guidance on the best way to sharpen an axe. Whilst I am always happy to provide input, I thought that it might be worthwhile to put together a tutorial on the basic techniques. The techniques used in here are intended to provide not only a sharp axe but also a safe and efficient axe.
Bannock (05.04.2007)
thumb_bannock1.jpg There was a period in my life where I lived out of a pack for months at a time and this was one of my staples. I like to coil it like a rope on a stick and bake it over hot coals...
Berry Picker (23.04.2007)
thumb_berrypicker10.jpgThere are many different ways you can make a berry picker but this is just a design i came up with which uses a packet of kebab skiewers and some discs of wood.
Fire By Friction - Using a fire-kit made with stone tools (31.05.2007)
thumb_firefrictionwhitcombe2.jpgThe whole kit took less than three hours to finally pull together — though that really overlooks by far the most time-consuming aspect, the preparation of materials. In fact, preparation has two components, actually. The first is the selection of materials. The second is the actual preparation.