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Tarps - Benefits and Basic Instructions |
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Written by Richard Halbert
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Page 3 of 3

Attach the front tie out to your trekking pole with a clove hitch and stake it out. Here is where you may need to adjust the distance between corner stakes. The pole should be about 2.5 feet from the tarp so that later you will have room to attach the beak to the pole. First tie a clove hitch on the pole, then tie another on the stake and push it into the ground. It is not necessary to push your pole into the ground.
It is tough to place the corner stakes diagonally at this time, so don't worry about it now as you can reset them later.
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Go around to the back and repeat the process that you just completed in front, attaching and staking the back of the tarp.
Attach and stake the side lifters, then the two stakes on each of the windward and leeward sides, and attach the beaks to your trekking poles.
Go around and check the corners and reset any stake lines that are not diagonal.
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Finished set up.
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Finished view from the back.
There are two more tie outs on each beak that are there if you need them. I have yet to use them. |
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More Tips:
If there are trees 15 - 20 feet apart or even one tree the job of setting up the tarp is very simple. Attach the front and back guy lines to the trees at the height you choose ( I always have the front higher than the back), stake out the corners, attach the lifters on the sides, stake the sides and you are done. I generally use a couple of quick release half hitches to secure the back to a tree, and a tautline hitch in front. That way I can adjust the tension as needed.
My Golite tarp also works well with the open configurations that I sometimes prefer - One Pole, Two Poles
If you expect to use any tarp in different configurations it is helpful to attach the lines that you expect to shift so they are easily removed and reattached. For these make a loop in the end of each line with either a bowline or simple overhand loop. Pass the loop through the loop or grommet of the tarp then pass the other end of the line (the standing part) through the loop in the free end of the line and pull it tight.The loop remains on the line and the line is now easily moved to another attachment point on the tarp.
Some people like to use one line that is a different color than all the other lines. This line, perhaps placed at the front ridgeline, makes it easy to orient the tarp when first pulled out of you pack.
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Taking It Down
Basically reverse the set up process. I like to pull the side stakes and lifters first, then the leeward corners, the ends next, and finally the windward corners. I do this in the same order each time mainly because it helps me keep track of the twelve stakes and, in a wind, the tarp will not blow away.
Pick up the collapsed tarp by grabbing the top in the middle of the tarp. Raise the tarp at this point and all the lines will fall neatly away at the bottom. Stuff it into its stow bag with the part you grabbed going in first. This will prevent any air pockets from forming. When you get to the edge of the fabric all the guy lines will be together. I coil these around my hand and place the coil in the bag last. The next time you pull out the tarp, chances are very good that there will not be any tangled line. Another possiblity is to remove all lines. In this case attach all lines to the tarp with the loops described above so they are easily removed and reattached.
Bug Protection: The Nest 1
The Golite Cave 1 is designed to work with the Nest1, a net tent that can be set up inside the Cave, and which attaches to it's tie out points. The Nest is 2' X 7' and weighs about the same as the tarp itself (13.5 oz). The advertised dimensions must be an average, at least for the width, for it is widest at the front and narrows toward the back. It has it's own floor eliminating the need for a ground sheet and instead of a zippered door, the netting at the door overlaps the floor. I found this to work well enough and eliminating the zipper keeps the weight down. I practiced setting this up three times before I was happy that this was going to be practical on a trip. I'll try to describe the set up and offer some tips based on my experiences.
1. Set up the Golite Cave
2. Take the Nest out of it's stow sack and lay it in the tarp with the floor down and the door at the front.
3. Attach the front: There are three cords with s-hooks at their ends which attach to the tie outs on the tarp, one at the top and two for the sides. There are barrel stays to tighten, but don't bother yet.
4. Crawl inside and all the way to the back where you repeat the process of attaching the s-hooks to the top and sides. You don't want to come back here again, so tighten the barrel stays. I found that these do not stay tightened by themselves, the barrel slides on the cord making these stays quite useless. My first fix for this was to attach an alligator clip on the cord next to each barrel. This effectively holds the barrel in place, but means you must add 8 alligator clips and about an ounce of weight to your gear list. Now I simply tie a slip knot (hitching tie) next to each barrel and that holds it. Since it is a slip knot all you need to do is pull on the cord to release it.
5. Crawl back to the front and secure the barrel stays there.
6. Crawl back to the middle and secure the two barrel stays that attach to the sides. To get the tent positioned correctly, I found it important to do the front and back before the middle.
7. At take down time, leave your slip knots in place. From now on set up should just be a matter of attaching the s-hooks which can now be accomplished from the outside, ie. no need to crawl inside the tent.
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Many Thanks to Richard Halbert. Taken from a tarp article on http://halbertri.tripod.com
Copyright ©2003-2007 Bushcraftuk.com

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Now I'm tempted to get myself a good tarp and leave the tent at home, might try it out next summer...