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Thread: Fly Fishing rods

  1. #1

    Default Fly Fishing rods

    My neighbour left these fly fishing rods to me a few years ago and I recently found them again in the attic.

    Does anyone know much about them? Are they worth anything? Not that I'm planning to sell them, I'd much rather use them. Wouls just be nice to know something about them

    Cheers!

  2. #2
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    Rod four looks like a split cane rod.. if so there's collectors out there who might be interested in it
    Man of Tanith (on the subject of meets)
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    Dont know anything about fly fishing,I only fish in the sea, but I know that the Bruce & Walker one could be worth a lot. They are hand made in England and some are hundreds of pounds !! Yes Really. Anything with Shimano on it is usually quite expensive as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Perrari View Post
    Dont know anything about fly fishing,I only fish in the sea, but I know that the Bruce & Walker one could be worth a lot. They are hand made in England and some are hundreds of pounds !! Yes Really. Anything with Shimano on it is usually quite expensive as well.
    Saltwater fly fishing is becoming extremely popular as well.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mesquite View Post
    Rod four looks like a split cane rod.. if so there's collectors out there who might be interested in it
    Thanks! Any idea of websites I could ask about this one? Collectors websites maybe?

    Quote Originally Posted by Perrari View Post
    Dont know anything about fly fishing,I only fish in the sea, but I know that the Bruce & Walker one could be worth a lot. They are hand made in England and some are hundreds of pounds !! Yes Really. Anything with Shimano on it is usually quite expensive as well.
    I just looked up a similar rod on ebay and got about £80 from it Not sure about the Shimano one yet though.

  6. #6
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    helpful lads on here that will help you

    http://www.flyforums.co.uk/

  7. #7

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    Hi

    They all appear to be single handed trout rods. What's important (as you're intending to use them rather than sell them) is the line rating mark. This would usually be a number followed by a # sign. This number is useful to give you an idea of the application the rod was intended, for example a 3# - 5# weight rod would usually be used for small streams up to small/medium rivers and stillwaters. A 6#-7# would be a good rod for most applications up to medium/large rivers and still waters, and anything above this would be good for large rivers and reservoirs. I wouldn't really want to use anything less than an 8# for saltwater.

    Regarding the collectors thing, a lot of people assume because something is old and made of cane that it's worth a lot, but this isn't necessarily the case. There's a lot of old cane rods out there that aren't worth a lot, and a lot of modern anglers choose to stay away from because they're a lot heavier than modern materials - but they're missing out because they can be great fun.

    The premium brands (Bruce & Walker already mentioned, Hardys, etc) will command decent prices, but rather than sell them please enjoy them!
    Last edited by Esox Lucius; 16-07-2012 at 18:26. Reason: didn't look at all the pics properly!

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Esox Lucius View Post
    Hi

    They all appear to be single handed trout rods. What's important (as you're intending to use them rather than sell them) is the line rating mark. This would usually be a number followed by a # sign. This number is useful to give you an idea of the application the rod was intended, for example a 3# - 5# weight rod would usually be used for small streams up to small/medium rivers and stillwaters. A 6#-7# would be a good rod for most applications up to medium/large rivers and still waters, and anything above this would be good for large rivers and reservoirs. I wouldn't really want to use anything less than an 8# for saltwater.

    Regarding the collectors thing, a lot of people assume because something is old and made of cane that it's worth a lot, but this isn't necessarily the case. There's a lot of old cane rods out there that aren't worth a lot, and a lot of modern anglers choose to stay away from because they're a lot heavier than modern materials - but they're missing out because they can be great fun.

    The premium brands (Bruce & Walker already mentioned, Hardys, etc) will command decent prices, but rather than sell them please enjoy them!
    All really helpful, thanks for the detail about where to use the rods. Is there certain line weights you would use with the different ones, or doesn't it matter?

    The smaller rod is the only one I have used, back when I was very young [maybe 14ish] so it was a brilliant size for me.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by whats wrong with you all View Post
    All really helpful, thanks for the detail about where to use the rods. Is there certain line weights you would use with the different ones, or doesn't it matter?

    The smaller rod is the only one I have used, back when I was very young [maybe 14ish] so it was a brilliant size for me.
    The rod's flexibility and length are paired with certain line weights. A better fly fisherman than me can explain it better but generally try to use the line weight the rod is marked with.

  10. #10

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    Do you have the whole of the cane rod or just the butt section?

    B&W rods can be worth a bit... but much like anything else, they're only worth what someone will pay for them. Rods like the Hexagraph can be worth a good portion of a mortgage payment in the right condition, others are worth only a few tens of pounds and, like a second hand jaguar (only without the fuel bills), they're much better off used than sold. The DT8 and ST9 on the Reservoirfly B&W refer, as santaman said, to the line rating of the rod - use a DT (double taper) 8 weight line, or a ST (Single taper, usually called a weight forward) 9 weight. This is a bit of a broomstick of a rod it seems as I would use those weights for pike on the fly with a massive lure, or for mackerel on the fly with a team of feathers.

    A complete, custom made, split cane rod could be worth a small fortune if you can prove it's provenance and it's something sought after. However, there's a lot out there which avid collectors wouldn't even use to hold the washing line up with. I would use it if it were mine, there are some lovely silk fly lines available from Thebault which would suit those lined rings well.

    Sadly the shimano and the shakespear were both at the budget end even when new... they might make a tenner or so each on Evilbay.

    Cheers!
    Adam.

    "Don’t take life so serious, son, it ain’t nohow permanent." Walt Kelly

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by santaman2000 View Post
    The rod's flexibility and length are paired with certain line weights. A better fly fisherman than me can explain it better but generally try to use the line weight the rod is marked with.
    Yep, that's basically it... the larger the line rating (i.e. line weight) the bigger the intended quarry and/or water.

    As a very rough guide 7-8 weights would be for reservoir fishing for large browns/ranbows, 4-6 weights would be small stillwaters/rivers for brown trout. 9 weight and above would generally be pike/salmon/salt water fish.

  12. #12
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    I always was under the impression that the line weights were to match specifically heavier rods. So that the balance made, casting easier.

    Windy
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    it's ploughing time again"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Filterhoose View Post
    I always was under the impression that the line weights were to match specifically heavier rods. So that the balance made, casting easier.

    Windy

    The combination of line weight (paired with a rod legth and flexibility to cast said line weight) is then chosen for the size fish. It also is important to choose a combination suitable for the environment you'll be fishing; a longer rod will work in an open environment whereas it might not be suitable from a bank overgrown with brush and overhanging branches.

  14. #14
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    Been reading this with interest

    i have never fly fished before and i'm looking for a fly rod for rivers/lakes/reservoirs

    what length would be good?

    regards
    max

  15. #15

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    Aldi have a travel fly rod in at the mo, no idea if it's any good.
    Great things are done when men and mountains meet.
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  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by max whitlock View Post
    Been reading this with interest

    i have never fly fished before and i'm looking for a fly rod for rivers/lakes/reservoirs

    what length would be good?

    regards
    max
    A 9'#5 or #6 makes for a good all round rod. 9'6" - 10' # 7 for bigger still waters and 7' - 8'6" #3 or #4 for finer river work.
    Having too many options gives you the option to get it wrong one day.

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    as the man say's

  18. #18

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    look for markings on the cane rod, i bought one at a car boot sale when i was a kid for 50p (my dad taught me coarse fishing and wasnt into fly but it was something i wanted to learn). At the age of about 13 i spent a summer teaching myself to cast with this old cane rod which resulted in me snapping it at the tip so i skipped it and because i put the time in learning to cast my dad bought me a modern outfit. The rod i had had hexagraph and weight number on it 5-6 i later learnt this rod was worth a fortune .
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  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by spiritwalker View Post
    hexagraph
    Your cane rod was actually a carbon... the 'graph' part of hexagraph stood for graphite, the 'hex' part for the mimicry of the hexagonal section of a traditional split cane rod.
    Adam.

    "Don’t take life so serious, son, it ain’t nohow permanent." Walt Kelly

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