Should all the sheet bends be drawn tight orkept loose?
Should all the sheet bends be drawn tight orkept loose?
I work on making them tight, as I find any left loose will distort the shape of the final net.
What type of net are you making?
Ogri the trog
Improvise, Adapt & Overcome
www.Reddragonbushcraft.com
It had distorted a little having not fully tightened them but i wasnt able to get any shape at all when i tightened them.
Not sure its any particular type of net its just a square of diamond mesh. My first attempt at net making so i' m happy with it.
Is there any use for the net i described in fishing?
I agree with Ogri, keep the sheet bends tight. To explore the craft more completely take a look at the "Nets and Net Making" forum at http://pineapple.myfunforum.org/index.php?c=7. Over a dozen topics related to net making discussed. Netmakers of all skill levels are welcome. Tony
It's addictive, ive made mesh hammocks, fruit nets for the garden, even a couple of triangular nets for the runner beans to climb up as well as things like purse nets etc , once you start you cant stop im afraid.
Had a few we things i dont quite understand so thought id ask here rather than make a new thread.
When netting tubular should i cast the first loops onto the looped cord with a larks head knot or form the sheet bend below the looped cord which leaves them loose to move?
the guide im following says to cast them on loose but this makes it hard to open the net up when finished.
Also all my knots slip a little even after tightening them, is this normal?
Cheers
When making tubular nets I find it better to use a larks-head onto a hoop. I also cast-on what looks to be way too many loops so the net has the ability to swell below the hoop - or - to replace the hoop with something else that opens the mouth of the net to a larger opening and restrict it further down the net by stitching in a smaller circle of cord. If you use larks-heads, they will untwist and straighten out if you remove them from the hoop. Some books I have seen, say to cast-on with a clove hitch which will not untwist if you want to remove the hoop or extend the net by adding cord to the "top" edge.
As for slipping knots, what material are you using, man-made fibres tend to slip and so require a double knot, whereas natural fibres tend to bite together better and so you can use a single sheet-bend - that said, some slipping is almost normal - especially if you get into a fast rhythm and sacrifice a little quality for speed!
ATB
Ogri the trog
Improvise, Adapt & Overcome
www.Reddragonbushcraft.com
For making tubular nets:
When casting onto a support loop or stirrup I use the clove hitch as described here for making a basketball net. Adjust mesh size and numbers to your needs.
http://pineapple.myfunforum.org/about1839.html
I lately have been using the chain start for my tubular nets.
http://pineapple.myfunforum.org/about1402.html
which leaves all meshes the same size. With the clove hitch or larks head, the first loop is a little bigger because of the knot.
Your knots should not slip once tightened. Try some of the hints from that section of the forum
http://pineapple.myfunforum.org/about466.html
If you are using synthetic twine you should use the double knot as Ogri the Trog suggests.
If you are making a closed end tube - casting onto a metal ring - I use the clove hitch
If you are making a closed end tube - without a ring - the grommet start is ideal
http://pineapple.myfunforum.org/about1715.html
There are a lot of other parts of the forum worth exploring and other net makers there with different ideas. Tony
Last edited by asemery; 13-07-2012 at 21:48.