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Thread: Knife Maintenance: advice needed.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Default Knife Maintenance: advice needed.

    Hello, just wondering how folks here clean their carbon steel knives.

    I recently purchased a Mora Clipper, and although I've found plenty of information about sharpening the blade, I'm unsure of how best to clean it.

    I used it for the first time the other day, and already it has some stains and marks on the blade. Is it safe to use soapy water? If so, what is best to use to scrub off the dirt?

    I also understand that oil can be used to create a protective layer on the blade?

    Thanks for reading, I'd love to hear any tips people have as it's my first proper bushcraft knife, and I want to maintain it properly!

  2. #2

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    A reasonably thorough clean will be affected if you strop the blade after use.
    If you have been using it to process raw meat, then soap & water is a good plan, but be uber-careful of the cutting edge- and dry it well before putting it back in its sheath.
    Any oil will protect the blade from corrosion, but choose one that will not taint any food that you intend to prepare with that blade.
    Lastly, carbon steel blades, if left unpolished, will eventually acquire a "patina" - a type of surface corrosion that will protect the steel underneath - this will have very little bearing on its performance and can be aesthetically pleasing too.

    ATB

    Ogri the trog
    Improvise, Adapt & Overcome
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  3. #3
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    Default

    If you want to polish it in the field I can recommend rough horestail. Actually, just about all of the Equisetum-species will work more or less.

  4. #4
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    Soap and water to clean it - if it realy needs it -but to protect the blade I would force a patina by leaving it wrapped in vinegar soaked tissue overnight.
    This can turn it almost black ( but more usually an attractive mottled grey/ brown )with a chemical layer that is rust resistant and - to my eyes - very atractive.
    Love makes the World go round......Lust makes it all go pear-shaped...

  5. #5
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    Default

    Thanks for all the info guys. Very much appreciated.

    I've just looked at the process of forcing a patina, but I think I prefer the idea of letting it happen over time.

    Does this mean that I'm in fact better off just not cleaning the blade too much (unless it has been used with raw meat); instead just wiping off any excess dirt and moisture but leaving the rest to form a patina?

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by s'étonner View Post
    Thanks for all the info guys.
    Ditto, I might force my old carbon frost as I'm toying with the re-handling idea...
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
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  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by forestwalker View Post
    If you want to polish it in the field I can recommend rough horestail. Actually, just about all of the Equisetum-species will work more or less.
    Good pan-scourers too . Occasionally I wish we had a thicker stemmed variety or two were native to the UK, a very useful plant .

    Quote Originally Posted by John Fenna View Post
    ... vinegar soaked tissue overnight...
    John, have you tried the peeling and cutting spuds method?
    Is this sausage dead yet?




  8. #8
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    I always put my blade under the tap when I get home (particularly if I have been on the beach) then let it dry before storing it. If I know I am not going to use it for a while I may put some olive/vegetable oil on it as well, but not neccessary if you keep it in a dry environment, (Bathroom & kitchen would not be good places). Washing it in clean water will remove salt/minerals but will not affect the Patina process unless you use abrasives e.g. Scourer.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by s'étonner View Post
    Does this mean that I'm in fact better off just not cleaning the blade too much (unless it has been used with raw meat); instead just wiping off any excess dirt and moisture but leaving the rest to form a patina?
    Cleaning any surface material off is good - particularly rust. If what you have is more like "staining" (often grey to black), just leave it be.
    Quote Originally Posted by Shambling Shaman on his Christmas wish list
    Yep, world peace, end to hunger,

    and possibly a new scope for my rifle.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Fenna View Post
    Soap and water to clean it - if it realy needs it -but to protect the blade I would force a patina by leaving it wrapped in vinegar soaked tissue overnight.
    This can turn it almost black ( but more usually an attractive mottled grey/ brown )with a chemical layer that is rust resistant and - to my eyes - very atractive.
    That's what I have done with most of my knives, I don't use stainless other than a pair of " GAK" that I have shortened the blades on for legal EDC.
    John

    experientia docet stultos.

  11. #11

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    Just for the sake of the argument I tried the uchiko powder, the same used for polishing katana from rust and dirt. I discovered high carbon steel is SO soft that the light scraping of the uchiko creates abrasion and also mantain the edge of the blade but is probably the worst way of polish

  12. #12
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    Just bouncing this thread because I have noticed some orange spots on the blade of my knife, even after gently cleaning it in soapy water. Could this be rust? The knife has barely been used.

    I'm thinking of just forcing a patina on this knife right now, but would it be wise to clean it with a scourer first to remove the orange spots?


    Thanks!

  13. #13
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    Sounds like rust ! Did you dry the knife off properly before storing it ? Also make sure the sheath is dry.Clean it off & oil it. If its only fine rust you could probably get away using a cloth with a bit of oil on it just to clean them off. I have never forced a patina on a knife so I cannot comment on that.

  14. #14
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    Just run some hot water over it and use a washing up sponge with the scouring pad on it. It'll get rid of the orange and leave it dark. Dry it off after and it's good to go. You could also throw some food grade oil on it to prevent rust. Veg oil, walnut, sesame and similar.
    Everybody's favorite redneck.

  15. #15
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    Default

    Thanks Perrari

    I dried the knife thoroughly after cleaning, but as I was camping in the rain on Saturday, using it to carve wood and cut up a few onions/tomatoes, I reckon that's what's done it. I did give it a quick wipe on my jeans after each use though.

    I'm going to clean it with a cloth and some olive oil (will that oil work?), then soak it in some vinegar for about an hour to force a patina, then hopefully this won't happen again!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch View Post
    Just run some hot water over it and use a washing up sponge with the scouring pad on it. It'll get rid of the orange and leave it dark. Dry it off after and it's good to go. You could also throw some food grade oil on it to prevent rust. Veg oil, walnut, sesame and similar.
    Thanks! I'm going to clean it now.

    Is there much point in applying any oil if I'm going to force a patina straight after?

  17. #17
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    Nope, no point at all mate. Just clean it off, dry it off then smear on some mayo or vinegar or mustard or whatever you want to use. You might well find leaving it overnight works better than an hour. You can keep building it up darker by repeating the process. If you wrap it in clingfilm after you can get some funky effects as well like tiger stripe patinas and petrol in a water puddle rainbow colours and similar.

    If you don't like it you can then polish it off with some autosol compound or similar. Have fun! Olive oil will be fine when you've reached your desired patina. Carbon can still rust with a patina so you'll still need to dry it before storing it every time.
    Everybody's favorite redneck.

  18. #18
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    Thanks Sasquatch! It's been cleaned and currently wrapped in some kitchen towel soaked in vinegar!

  19. #19
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    Default

    some olive oil as above always good when dry

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