bow drill tensioning?

[wattsy]

What's the easiest way of getting good tension with the bowdrill? At the minute I just tie a clove hitch at either end, see if it works and adjust but I've just had 4 groups of scouts attempting it and it come loose quite often. I'm shattered from just running around making sure they have decent tension. Would be grateful for any ideas.

Cheers
Matt

[forestwalker]

A clove hitch will tend to roll, use a better knot.

[the interceptor boy]

Take a round and make a double overhand knot that simple, hope this help.

[Broomstickize]

Timber hitch at one end (to stay fixed) and the same as interceptor boy at the other so you can adjust.
For the few times I've bow drilled I just adjusted to find that right balance between the spindle slipping (too loose) and it being too much work to turn (too tight). I think it's a knack and personal thing that everyone has to work out for themselves - I'm sure being long limbed and 85kg would make my setting different to someone smaller / lighter...

[Nonsuch]

Use the bow hand the grip the cord against the bow a little. This makes the tension adjustable on the go.

[Broomstickize]

Use the bow hand the grip the cord against the bow a little. This makes the tension adjustable on the go.

Oh - that is so kay and I forgot to mention it. I went from zero to hero woth just that tip when I learnt.

[Joonsy]

Hi, tie the cord to the bow at each end with either the ''Icicle Hitch'' or the ''Sailors Gripping Hitch'', those two knots are designed to hold on bar/stick that is even tapering (as the name 'icicle' suggests), once tied on bow they can be easily slid along to get correct length and will not slip, the clove hitch is designed for a pull at an angle away from the stick whereas the Icicle or Sailors Gripping will hold when pulling along the stick, the icicle hitch grips so well you can actually tie it to a tapering pole in the shape of an icicle and hang your full weight off it vertically and it will not slip (hence it's name) both the icicle or sailors griping are equally suitable, choose the one you prefer yourself, you could also tie an Icicle Hitch at one end of bow and a Klemheist prusik at the other end of bow, click on following links for how to tie them http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stSVqdQFtfs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtEMNzDJiWg

[Kepis]

Put a slip loop at one end of the cord and slip this over the end of the bow, make sure you have cut a notch or use a bit of a side branch as a stop for the cord to rest in/against



Then get the tension right on the spindle and just wrap the cord round the hand hold end of the bow a few times, or a lot of times in this case and then do a couple of tucks with the loose end to secure, ive used this method of securement for years and it's never let me down.



A few other pics that you might like to study for securement methods

[wattsy]

Cheers for the ideas guys ill give them a whirl

[Elines]

Thanks from me too for the suggestions - I had been struggling with the same thing

[calgarychef]

The best way to deal with tension in a bow is don't make a bow...... Use an "L" shaped piece of wood for the bow and use the short part for the handle where you'll hang on to. While your hand is wrapped around the handle you can reach out with your ring and little finger and apply more or less tension. It's easy as pie really but what you have to do is get rid of the idea of a bow. Get that bow idea totally out of your head because it's inefficient and doesn't work.

[Kepis]

Get that bow idea totally out of your head because it's inefficient and doesn't work.

Really?, there are a lot of very experienced bow drillers around here who might disagree with that statement

[Seoras]

Inefficient - Disagree
Doesn't work - Disagree
There are other methods like yours - Agree

[Neil1]

I sort of see where you are coming from Calgarychef! And many fall into that trap! (on a recent Instructors weekend, a friend of mine was failed for not having a "bow-shaped bow" (although he had collected all of his materials from the environment around him and was the first to achieve fire!!).
An "L" shape restricts your choices, a "J" is far easier to find, as is a bracket "(" - a "D" on the other hand makes for hard work and inefficient bowing. Even an "I" straight bow works.
Keep an open mind - find what works for you - but also be adaptable, so you can achieve your goal in whatever circumstances.
Over the last three weeks I have taught 96 (+) to make & use bow drill sets - choose your advice carefully.

[mountainm]

Failed for not having a bow shaped bow, but made fire first? Please tell us which course this was so we can avoid. I measure by results.

[Neil1]

It was'nt one of mine as we teach not dictate!!!

[jackcbr]

Really?, there are a lot of very experienced bow drillers around here who might disagree with that statement

Speaking from my vast experience of bow drill firelighting, that's all of about 72 hours now, I do find it inefficient compared to a lighter. But as my thread shows even a relatively inexperienced chap like me can even get a successful ember in about 3 minutes or less.

[Neil1]

Now if you had stayed at the last moot!! We would had you down to less than a minute! (ask Simon H).

[jackcbr]

Yeah, I know, but commited elsewhere. Should be there for the full one this month, might bring my set along too. Are you going to be there mate, not seen you for a while now.

[calgarychef]

I'd suggest that any instructor who failed a student for "not making a bow shaped bow" ought not to be an instructor. And maybe all those instructors who would disagree that a bow shape isn't as effiecient just haven't been shown a better way Back to the original question "what's the easiest way to get good tension with the bowdrill"

In my part of Canada it's almost impossible to find an "L" or "j" shaped piece of wood for a bow, it's strange how differently the trees grow in different locations. Some days I've searched for literally hours while out hiking in and not found my ideal bow, when I do find one I cherish it! It doesn't mean I can't use something that's not perfect but if I was begining and having trouble getting things to work I'd start with the easiest idea first.

The thing with the "L" shape is you don't have to start with much tension on the thong at all, a lot of problems come from too much or too little tension as you experienced firelighters know. Too much and the spindle wants to flip out and the thong wears faster and too little the thong slips on the spindle. All of that is eliminated if you can vary the pressure. By the way before someone says "but you can vary the pressure with a regular bow," sure you can but not as easily or as consistently.

Happy firelighting and stay warm!

[Stringmaker]

I'd suggest that any instructor who failed a student for "not making a bow shaped bow" ought not to be an instructor. And maybe all those instructors who would disagree that a bow shape isn't as effiecient just haven't been shown a better way Back to the original question "what's the easiest way to get good tension with the bowdrill"

In my part of Canada it's almost impossible to find an "L" or "j" shaped piece of wood for a bow, it's strange how differently the trees grow in different locations. Some days I've searched for literally hours while out hiking in and not found my ideal bow, when I do find one I cherish it! It doesn't mean I can't use something that's not perfect but if I was begining and having trouble getting things to work I'd start with the easiest idea first.

The thing with the "L" shape is you don't have to start with much tension on the thong at all, a lot of problems come from too much or too little tension as you experienced firelighters know. Too much and the spindle wants to flip out and the thong wears faster and too little the thong slips on the spindle. All of that is eliminated if you can vary the pressure. By the way before someone says "but you can vary the pressure with a regular bow," sure you can but not as easily or as consistently.

Happy firelighting and stay warm!

I was doing some bow drill demos recently, and found an "L" piece which I then corded up. I haven't used it yet, but following your experience with the more adjustable tension I shall try it soon and report back.