Well, Sasquatch has me all fired up with his wonderful blade (seen on his thread 'Finally One For Me' but even more gorgeus in real ife!). I've been doing a thread takeover so thought I'd be better starting one myself
The basic requirement is for a fairly deep etch on a trail hawk hatchet mod (see thread here). Here's the designs- they're big and very girly but its the techniques and theory I want to get sorted really
I've used it as a playaround for my new dremel-alike to polish up certain areas to create highlights and want the etch to be deep shadow and pick out the delineations and lines. In deciding how best to go about this, I feel I need to consider adaptions to Chads brilliant knife blade techniques so have loads of questions! Oh, and I'll add a resource link list at the end to add my ever-growing information/ confusion sources
Much gratitude for any input, theoretical or experienced on large blade etching!
Q- Is it the amperage that removes the metal? I was thinking that plugging myself into the mains via an old mobile charger would actually be a safer ampage than the car battery but if its the 'line abreast army' that does the work, guess that'd be out of the question. Although the 9v batts can't push the amps out and they work....
Q- Definately very interested in the other resist materials, specially as I'm working large scale and girly nail products are about a fiver a pop for a piddly few mls! I'm guessing they are the product of choice as they're designed to be fairly flexible so don't 'spall' off/ seperate from the metal and produce a weep between solution and resist (and having scratched the design, tis good to be able to see through it a little)... so I'm gonna try the other side of my test axe with other cellulose based paint.
Q-Does anyone have a linky for large area etches?
Q-Seriously now, Guys, a CAR battery... or am I being 'Blonde'?! Last time I (accidentally) shorted one of those, I melted a spanner so I don't think a cotton wool bud is gonna be man enough for the job I presume its important that its a natural ie non melty fibre?
Q- I'm presuming be REAL careful theres no way it can find an earth so a good pair of rubber wellies, good ventilation... first aider on call.... any other safety bases to cover?
Q- Does the salt water have to be at its strongest solution ie any more granules just sit at the bottom?
Q- Does the strength of solution and current affect the depth of the etch as well as the time spent on one area?
Q-I presume if I'm practicing it should be on a similar weight of steel to get a good comparison or doesn't this matter?
LINKY LIST- I'm sure this will be added to
Navaching's etching page which has a good theoretical explaination and wiring diagrams for a simple potentiometer (There's another etching machine making tute at Chris Crawfords site too)
British Blades have a thread about etching different metals (eg Stainless steel) here.. it covers a plethora of other associated subjects
Dip etch steamppunk stylee using laser printer on glossy inkjet paper
An Instructables thread... the comments cover quite a bit of theory and some folks have posted their practice pieces
Theres a tute and interesting, simply put information about alternate etching using newspaper/ magazine as the toner on printed circuit boards here (the image needs to be mirrored for this technique)
I was interested to read on this BB thread that if you swap the poles, you electroplate the design.... presumably careful choice of positive terminal and experimentation could provide another design dimension It's main OP was about 'Etching the Bushblades way' and it's a grand thread ref Press N Peel technique.
Custom Bladeworks use a light sensitive chemical technique... I may not be trying this one here, it seems a bit of a faff but it's interesting and possibly apt for makers/ high outputters.
Nice in depth tute from a jewellry maker- it covers various larger dip etches on alternate metals.