looking for a USB lead that can power this..........

[Cade]

Bought this of amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...ls_o02_s00_i01, so i can keep a few things charged whilst camping with the kids (NDS etc) now i want to be able to charge it via my car lighter......... i have a USB port adapter for the car so need a USB lead that can connect to this....... here is a better pick of the lead http://m.csteng.net/product/util/acc...UKA_BA_PS5.jpg

From the manufacturer they say its a 5.5mmx2.1mm but having issues finding a USB lead that can do it...... ideally around the 1A mark


Any assistance would be great

thanks

Cade

[Donny732]

Unfortunately you won't be able to charge that battery pack from a USB port because the input voltage is 9-15V and USB's max voltage is 5V. Even if you get a cable that fits, it won't charge the battery effectively (depending on the internals) and probably won't charge it at all. You probably could knock up a cigarette lighter socket adapter, seeing as they put out 9-16V or so.

[weekend_warrior]

I agree with Donny - it won't work. That unit needs 9-15V/1A. You might get a universal mobile phone charger that will do it - a trip to Maplins might help

[Cade]

Thanks guys will have to find a mobile type lighter connecter then time to go on the hunt!

[rik_uk3]

Pick up a cheap 12v to 240v inverter and just plug your gizmo's mains charger into it. Connects via car ciggy lighter and won't break the bank.

[Cade]

tbh i hadn't even considered an inverter! thanks guys

[NS40]

I'd second the inverter idea...in the car I have a charger for my phone, everything else (laptops, kid's games, etc) gets run from the inverter that lives in the car.

[dave53]

as rik said regards dave

[cbr6fs]

Most USB mobile phone car chargers kick out between 5v and 9v, so a USB cable will happily take 9v and higher.
The main worry is not the voltage but how much current you put through it, too much and you'll melt the cable.

So in theory i wouldn't be too worried about the cable, my main worry would be regulating the charge and more importantly stopping the charge at the correct voltage.

Because of it's size in relation to it's capacity, i'd hazard a guess that the battery pack will be running lithium based cells, so overcharging is a real concern.
If you just wire up a adaptor to the cars cigarette lighter socket unless there is a charge regulation circuit built into the device over charging would be a major concern.

If your feeling a little adventurous then you could confirm what chemistry the batteries are and use a hobby charger.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...cessories.html

With an adaptor lead
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...g_harness.html
or
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...apter_Set.html


An inverter would be the easiest option though.


Another thing to note is that, if charging at 1 amp it's going to take around 10 hours to charge it completely, so i hope it's a long drive.



Cheers
Mark

[Cade]

thie idea is to charge it before i leave but also charge it as i use it on trips around where we are staying, we are national trust members to tend to take the kids to the various castles etc near we are so they can see things

[rik_uk3]

Just buy an inverter, cuts out the hassle. Depending upon what you buy you can also pack a small microwave, kettle, DVD player etc.

[ged]

Just for information, a USB socket that's up to spec will be able to put out 2A.

Yes, it's all 5V and if it's markedly different from that I'd send it back to wherever it came from because it risks frying USB devices.

The cables also ought to take 2A. Whether they and what they're plugged into are up to spec or not is another matter. The maximum length for a USB cable according to the spec is 5 metres.

[Lister]

You use get a USB with double USB A headers on giving 2x5v typically you'd find this sort of system on early HSDPA SIM modems but going to the 5.5mmx2.1mm jack might be an issue, i have NEVER seen a USB cable go straight to a jack, typically you'd get a USB A to mini-B and them from mini-B (female) to the diameter jack you want.

[Donny732]

Just for information, a USB socket that's up to spec will be able to put out 2A.

That's not in the spec at all. Since 2.0, devices can negotiate up to 5A, but dedicated charge ports shouldn't put out more than 1.5A.

[bikething]

You're all getting far too complicated

The INPUT to the device will take 9-15V at up to 1A so you just need a cable with a cigar lighter plug on one end and a 5.5mmx2.1mm jack plug on the other.
It will only take as much current as it needs.

[ex member pyrophil]

Get a 2.1mm jack and a car lighter plug and bit of wire from maplin and make your own one up.

[ex member pyrophil]

Put this in ebay, "12V 12-Volt DC 2.1mm Car Cigarette Lighter Power Cable" £2.40 and your sorted, just what you want.

[ged]

Just for information, a USB socket that's up to spec will be able to put out 2A. ...

That's not in the spec at all. Since 2.0, devices can negotiate up to 5A, but dedicated charge ports shouldn't put out more than 1.5A.

Um, I didn't say it was "in the spec".

Quoting from

http://www.usb.org/developers/usbfaq#pow2

"... In the case of 7.2.3, with a worst-case configuration, a hub essentially sees a 500mA current step on each of its ports when the bus resumes. Thus, a hub designer typically has to design for a load step from near zero to 2-3.5A. ..."

[cbr6fs]

You're all getting far too complicated

The INPUT to the device will take 9-15V at up to 1A so you just need a cable with a cigar lighter plug on one end and a 5.5mmx2.1mm jack plug on the other.
It will only take as much current as it needs.

Get a 2.1mm jack and a car lighter plug and bit of wire from maplin and make your own one up.

Very bad advice guys, verging on irresponsible.

If this device does not have a a voltage regulator and a lithium battery, then overcharging will at best result in acidic smoke filling the car (that will eventually eat through most the interior) at worst the cell in the device will flare up like a Catherine wheel.

Older NiMh and NiCd based cells are a LOT more tougher to overcharging, over charge a LiPo cell though and you'll know about it.

[rik_uk3]

Stick with the inverter and the devices mains charger, safer all round

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1000W-Car-...item41663844d2
converts to mains but also has a USB socket as well

[ged]

Very bad advice guys, verging on irresponsible.

If this device does not have a a voltage regulator and a lithium battery, then overcharging will at best result in acidic smoke filling the car (that will eventually eat through most the interior) at worst the cell in the device will flare up like a Catherine wheel.

Older NiMh and NiCd based cells are a LOT more tougher to overcharging, over charge a LiPo cell though and you'll know about it.

+1 to all this.

Even ignoring the potential dangers of charging some of the batteries currently on the market, wiring things to lighter sockets isn't to be done without thought.

The socket can probably put out at least 30A without breaking into a sweat. Well over 300 Watts even with a low battery. When the engine is running, well over 400 Watts. More than enough to set something alight if things go pear-shaped. If your cable, connectors and possibly whatever you connect to them can't take that much current, then you need a device in the lighter plug to protect them from over current. The alternative is to risk a fire when something fails.

[bikething]

Very bad advice guys, verging on irresponsible.

The fact that it can take a variable voltage input (9-15V), plus the fact that the SUPPLIED power supply is exactly that - a power supply, not a regulated charger, makes me believe that the regulation circuitry is built into the battery pack.

[ex member pyrophil]

The fact that it can take a variable voltage input (9-15V), plus the fact that the SUPPLIED power supply is exactly that - a power supply, not a regulated charger, makes me believe that the regulation circuitry is built into the battery pack.

Thats right, that battery pack comes with a power pack, all the regulation ect is built in the battery pack.
Just like a mobile phone and all other things with plug in power supplies.

[Donny732]

Um, I didn't say it was "in the spec".

Quoting from

http://www.usb.org/developers/usbfaq#pow2

"... In the case of 7.2.3, with a worst-case configuration, a hub essentially sees a 500mA current step on each of its ports when the bus resumes. Thus, a hub designer typically has to design for a load step from near zero to 2-3.5A. ..."

That's a negotiated current on a 2.0/3.0 data port, though. The specification for Dedicated Charging Ports specifically limits current to 1.5A, so to say that USB socket that's up to spec will be able to put out 2A is just wrong.

[ged]

That's a negotiated current on a 2.0/3.0 data port, though. The specification for Dedicated Charging Ports specifically limits current to 1.5A, so to say that USB socket that's up to spec will be able to put out 2A is just wrong.

OK, you win, I'll settle for 1.5A.

[Donny732]

Sorry for being pedantic about that. I spent a good six months working on USB controllers a few years back. That spec is embedded in my brain.

[cbr6fs]

The fact that it can take a variable voltage input (9-15V), plus the fact that the SUPPLIED power supply is exactly that - a power supply, not a regulated charger, makes me believe that the regulation circuitry is built into the battery pack.

The fact that it's able to accept a variable input voltage means the input is regulated, this has absolutely nothing what-so-ever to do with it being able to cut-off the charge current at the the right voltage or it having over charge protection.

You also have absolutely no idea if the main socket is a power supply or a charger just from looking at a quick picture.

Thats right, that battery pack comes with a power pack, all the regulation ect is built in the battery pack.
Just like a mobile phone and all other things with plug in power supplies.

Again absolute guess work.

If this is indeed a liPo based battery and you are wrong, you are without a shadow of a doubt putting the op and everyone in the car and driving near him in at an extremely high risk.

If his cells are Lithium based and they do go into a overcharged state, if the op is driving the car will be filled with noxious, toxic and acidic smoke thick enough to make breathing extremely difficult and certainly thick enough to make driving impossible.

That's the best case scenario as well.
If the pack ignites it will flare up with the power of a catherine wheel burning anything within 1/2 meter.


If, maybes and possibilities are simply not enough here.
Unless you are 100% sure you have a responsibility to the op and anyone else that reads this to be 100% right.

Judging an electrical device by a picture of it's external packaging is absolutely ridiculous, pointless and totally unacceptable.

It may seem to some that i'm being a bit over dramatic here, thing is i have been using lithium based cells for around 10 years now, i personally witnessed them burn, RC planes, helicopters and cars to a chard wreck, i've even witnessed a members Toyota burn to a crisp from bad charging practices.

Imagine this happening in the car as the op is driving with his entire family in the car



That LiPo flared up from overcharging exactly the same thing i'm banging on about.

As i say unless you are absolutely 100% sure that this product is NOT running lithium cells and unless your 100% certain the charging circuit is built into the device you are bang out of order and without any over dramatics you are putting peoples lives at risk.

[bikething]

The fact that it's able to accept a variable input voltage means the input is regulated, this has absolutely nothing what-so-ever to do with it being able to cut-off the charge current at the the right voltage or it having over charge protection.

since the power to charge the battery has to pass THROUGH the power input, it is therefore protected by the input circuitry, no?

You also have absolutely no idea if the main socket is a power supply or a charger just from looking at a quick picture.

Apart from the fact that it says "AC Adapter" on it? ... it does not say "Charger" or "regulator" on it.

[cbr6fs]

since the power to charge the battery has to pass THROUGH the power input, it is therefore protected by the input circuitry, no?

Apart from the fact that it says "AC Adapter" on it? ... it does not say "Charger" or "regulator" on it.

As i say unless you are absolutely 100% certain, question marks just don't cut it, the consequences of you being wrong far outweigh anything else.

[ex member pyrophil]

Apart from the fact that it says "AC Adapter" on it? ... it does not say "Charger" or "regulator" on it. lol Yeah power pack 100% certain.
Lithiums yes you got to be careful with them and anyone thinking of using them should read up on them.