Bowdrill Troubleshooting

[velvetmonkey]

Hi all,

I'm new to the forum and was wondering if anyone out there could advise me.......

I'm a fledgling bushcrafter, having a love of the outdoors and a passion for the skills that go with it.
I've been on a few outdoors/survival courses and one of the things that really inspired me was the bowdrill. I had success lighting my tinder bundle of goose grass/rosebay willow herb/birch bark using the instructors hearth and spindle (we had to cut our own bows).

I wanted to do this completely by myself so subsequently cut some wood to make my own set. I used what I'm nearly 100% sure is Lime wood. I've carved the hearth and spindle and dried them out well.

I've come across the following problems and need some guidance.
(Remember, I'm fairly new to all this so go easy on me!)

1. I'm getting a lot of squeaking at times (although I amd getting some black dust)
2. my cord keeps slipping (i.e. the spindle stays in place while I'm moving the bow)
3. the cord I've used keeps wearing out and breaking

Any guidance you could give is greatly appreciated

[spandit]

What cord are you using? Starter cord is very tough. You might need more tension if it's slipping

[velvetmonkey]

Don't laugh, but the cord I'm using is a cheap paracord type material - nothing more than a shoelace.

I don't know whether I need to employ a rougher "rope" type cord?
Although I've been told spruce roots can be used, and I've harvested some - they seem quite smooth?

Bear in mind this could all be down to my inexperience and technique!

[spandit]

No laughing here - it's what I started with which is why I found out about starter cord!

[velvetmonkey]

Thanks Spandit,

Where can I get starter cord?

[velvetmonkey]

Thanks Spandit,

Where can I get starter cord?

Or what should I be looking for in the cord?

[ged]

The cords that they sell for the pull-starters on garden machinery are very wear resistant and very strong, so you can get good tension. Use a stronger bow to get more tension and allow for some adjustment to get the tension right. Friction in the top bearing can be reduced in all sorts of ways, a hollow pebble or a limpet shell for example. You could roughen up the surface of the spindle with the back of a knife or something but I admit I've never found that necessary. You might be using too much downward pressure on the spindle, try easing off a little. It all needs to go smoothly and without too much effort when you drill slowly, so that when you apply the effort and go fast the effort goes into making heat and not into making sweat.

[spandit]

I bought a big drum off eBay - it's way cheaper than paracord but only comes in white

[Hugo]

Will you be giving a tutorial on the bow drill at the next Sussex meet Robin.

[Elines]

This is the sort of problem where someone who knows about bow-drilling could probably easily tell you what needs changing if they could just see you trying to do it - so any chance of you going to a meet where that might happen?

Re limpet shells - I agree with Ged - they make it so much easier than using a piece of wood with a cavity cut into it but .... when I tried recently I found that you needed TWO limpet shells (with one inside the other) as the friction causes them to heat up and one would not be enough to avoid burning your hand (well ... that was my expererindce anyway)

[lannyman8]

hello and welcome to BCUK....

Q 1. I'm getting a lot of squeaking at times (although I amd getting some black dust)

A 1. try messing with the amount of pressure you are using, add some or take away as needed until the noise goes, i will talk you through how i do it at the end.


Q 2. my cord keeps slipping (i.e. the spindle stays in place while I'm moving the bow)

A 2. tie the cord straight to the bow (as in before its bent) then when you twist the drill into the string it wont slip, this means it is harder to twist the drill into the string though. make sure the bow is as long as your arm, this will make it more easy to drill with greater effect.

Q 3. the cord I've used keeps wearing out and breaking

A 3. i use a para cord copy and it works fine, it might be because of your looser cord causing friction + heat which will melt it rather than wear through, try with the tighter cord, if that does not work plat 3 bits together, this will also help grip the spindle more too, causing even less slipping.

the way i do my bow drill is in 2 stages, stage 1 is filling the notch 3/4 full with dust, this needs very little pressure or smoke, just a steady slight wisp the whole way through, with mid brown to dark brown dust...

stage 2 is the heat section, this is when you "light" the dust which has formed, just add lots off pressure (not loads and loads), you will be getting lots of smoke now with "black" dust, fill the notch all the way, and keep going for another 10-20 stokes of the bow...

carefully remove the drill, and then chill, dont rush you have time now to recover if you need to. you should still have wisps of smoke coming from the dust, which means you have a coal, wait and recover take a moment then pick up your "pre sorted tinder bundle". carefully put the coal into the tinder and blow to flame, this on its own takes time to master, char cloth and tinder fungus are easy compared to a fragile bow drill coal...

for tinder i like to use dead grass, most places have it and its normally quite dry where its been blowing in the wind, furn is also good once buffed up a little..

my bow drill lesson is in the youtube link below if you wanted to have a look

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3nvnjioLmQ

regards.

chris.

[lannyman8]

as to shells and rocks, horses for courses and all that, i have never needed to use one but does not mean they dont work...

if you choose to use a wooden bearing block instead just make sure you lube the hole up with grass or green leaves "every time", this way you should be all good, make sure the drill tip is nice and pointed too, just be careful not to stab your hand if you slip off....

[spandit]

Will you be giving a tutorial on the bow drill at the next Sussex meet Robin.

Won't have time, Hugo, I've got to try & teach you & Kepis to carve a decent spoon first...

[Elines]

as to shells and rocks, horses for courses and all that, i have never needed to use one but does not mean they dont work...

if you choose to use a wooden bearing block instead just make sure you lube the hole up with grass or green leaves "every time", this way you should be all good, make sure the drill tip is nice and pointed too, just be careful not to stab your hand if you slip off....

I have also had good results from a lubed wooden bearing block - in the field instead of grass you could use petroleum jelly eg if you had cotton wool/petroleum jelly as part of your fire lighting kit. The advantage of limpet shells - I think - is that they take up little space, need no additional lubrication and are 'pre-shaped'. I certainly found them easier to use than a wooden bearing block.

[Kepis]

Won't have time, Hugo, I've got to try & teach you & Kepis to carve a decent spoon first...

magic, looking forward to that, if you can steal yourself away from carving during the weekend, can you teach me the bow drill as well please?

[lannyman8]

I have also had good results from a lubed wooden bearing block - in the field instead of grass you could use petroleum jelly eg if you had cotton wool/petroleum jelly as part of your fire lighting kit. The advantage of limpet shells - I think - is that they take up little space, need no additional lubrication and are 'pre-shaped'. I certainly found them easier to use than a wooden bearing block.

i have become quite good with the bow drill now so i collect all the bits apart from the cordage on site, my last kit was Sycamore board and Birch drill, which worked very well...

i plan to do the whole thing in the field with a big bit of flint, making the tools from that then collecting the wood and cordage then making fire, its a challenge i have set for myself for this year...and im trying to get better with the hand drill too, i have not had a coal from that yet..

[spandit]

magic, looking forward to that, if you can steal yourself away from carving during the weekend, can you teach me the bow drill as well please?

If your cheque clears then maybe...

[Kepis]

If your cheque clears then maybe...

but, but, but, but i paid via paypal

[Elines]

.............................. ....................
i plan to do the whole thing in the field with a big bit of flint, making the tools from that then collecting the wood and cordage then making fire, its a challenge i have set for myself for this year...and im trying to get better with the hand drill too, i have not had a coal from that yet..

Good luck with all of that - way ahead of what I could do

[F7144]

Let me know your e-mail address and I will send you a 3 page bow drill handout.

Luke
Greencraft

[lannyman8]

Good luck with all of that - way ahead of what I could do

thanks dude, and with you, if you need any help at all just give me a PM....

regards.

chris.

[Hugo]

That is a kind offer Luke.
Are you doing a bow drill tutorial along with Spandit at the Sussex meet up as well then.

[spandit]

That is a kind offer Luke.
Are you doing a bow drill tutorial along with Spandit at the Sussex meet up as well then.

Blimey, don't say I've got to teach him too...

[Elines]

thanks dude, and with you, if you need any help at all just give me a PM....

regards.

chris.

Will do - thanks for the offer

[F7144]

Hugo, I don't know if I will be at the next meet yet. If I can make it I will bring my hand and bow drill gear with me. If you are going to use limpet shells you will need two, as well as the issue with heat the inner shell will get a hole in the top of it after prolonged use so collect some spares. I use a pebble with a slight depression in it, very useful if like me you do lots of demo's, saves on cutting bearing blocks all the time.

The handout I have written normally gets given out after a "make, use, and keep" bow drill lesson. It covers most things but some aspects would have been covered in the two hour practical session.

Luke
Greencraft

[Kepis]

I will probably have a dozen or more pre prepared sets in the car ready to go for people who want to have a crack at it at the next meet.

[Simon H]

I've had reasonable results from mounting the limpet shell in a bearing block, they seem to last longer and you don't need to keep adding a green leaf for lube. It is a faff about though....Looking forward to your lesson though Spandit.......

[velvetmonkey]

Hi all,

Just thought I would update............

After a six week hiatus (sprained wrist), I have finally finally finally!! been able to create fire by friction!!!!!
I am using the same hearth/spindle and my technique is far from graceful.

I'm still struggling with the cord riding up the spindle when I'm drilling.
Don't know if that's poor technique or lack of practice.

Either way, I'm having reasonable success in being able to create an ember each time.

Thanks to all for your advice and help

[lannyman8]

Hi all,

Just thought I would update............

After a six week hiatus (sprained wrist), I have finally finally finally!! been able to create fire by friction!!!!!
I am using the same hearth/spindle and my technique is far from graceful.

I'm still struggling with the cord riding up the spindle when I'm drilling.
Don't know if that's poor technique or lack of practice.

Either way, I'm having reasonable success in being able to create an ember each time.

Thanks to all for your advice and help

woop woop, well done dude... keep it up and your way of doing things will become clear to you, and you will know what is going wrong and when....

[Stringmaker]

Hi all,

Just thought I would update............

After a six week hiatus (sprained wrist), I have finally finally finally!! been able to create fire by friction!!!!!
I am using the same hearth/spindle and my technique is far from graceful.

I'm still struggling with the cord riding up the spindle when I'm drilling.
Don't know if that's poor technique or lack of practice.

Either way, I'm having reasonable success in being able to create an ember each time.

Thanks to all for your advice and help

Nice one!

I remember how I felt when I got my first ember; I just sat there in the garage watching it glow with a big grin on my face.

Just one comment; are you right handed? If you are, then there is a "correct" way to wind the cord round the drill to stop it climbing up. If you are right handed and are holding the bow, then bring the drill to the cord from the left (i.e. outside the bow) then twist the drill into the cord anti-clockwise.

The other thing is to make sure that you are bowing completely flat. If not then even a slight upwards motion will make the cord creep up the drill.

Good work!