Miniature Aluminium Alcohol Stove

**savagebushcraft** · 10-09-2011, 21:28

I noticed some aluminium bottled, pump spray applicators, in Poundland, so decided to make a miniature version of the good old aluminium bottle alcohol stove.

The bottles are pretty much the same design, but around half the diameter.

Here are the steps, for those no aware of the process.

1: Mark the bottle at the top and bottom, the same distance from each end.

2: Cut the bottle into three pieces, along these two lines. It's easier if you use a mitre block, to help keep the cuts straight.

3: Make four cuts, across the mouth of what used to be the top, of the bottle. This creates 8 small notches, that allow the fuel to pass into the pressure chamber.

4: Turn the top section and insert the mouth of the bottle (the narrow end) into the bottom section, like so...

5: place these sections between two pieces of board, then between the jaws of a large clamp. Make sure the ends are as parallel as possible.

6: Tighten the clamp, to compress the top section into the bottom section, making sure the boards remain parallel, until the rims of both sections are level.

-When removed from the clamp, it should look like this...

7: Using an upturned belt sander, smooth the cut edges, to level the (now) top of the stove.

8: Mark the 8 positions for the jets. Again it's easier if you mark them on the top edge first, then using a block to maintain high, mark around the stove in the corresponding places, then mark an X where the jets will be.

9: Drill a 2mm hole, at each of these Xs. I found it more controllable, if you lay the drill on it;s side, then "block up" the workpiece to get the correct high.

10: Once the holes have been drilled, use a panel pin to angle the jets upward.

11: After a little sanding, to smooth any sharp protrusions, you're done. All ready to fill with fuel and get cooking.

**RichardIT** · 10-09-2011, 21:31

I like; lots

Thanks for the tutorial; greatly appreciated.

**savagebushcraft** · 10-09-2011, 21:42

You're welcome Richard. If you wanted to make one from the larger alu bottle, the process is exactly the same.

Adam

**British Red** · 10-09-2011, 22:56

Best tutorial I have seen on the subject - thank you!

**lannyman8** · 10-09-2011, 23:04

thats awesome dude, very clear and easy....

I NEED A BOTTLE.......

**ateallthepies** · 10-09-2011, 23:17

Good idea about directing the jets upwards. I think I will try that on my creations.

Have you experimented with the jet size, I see you use 2mm holes? I have been using a 1mm bit on a similar type stove and have got a pint to a boil in about 9.5 minutes.

Steve.

**savagebushcraft** · 10-09-2011, 23:39

Thanks for the kind words guys.

@ateallthepies this is the fourth stove of this design (all be it a smaller version) I have made, and with smaller jets I find the pressure is that bit higher, causing the flames to bloom very wide, which is great for bigger pots, but not so great for smaller ones. This is a problem I've had with several side burners. The larger version of this boiled 1L in 6.5 minutes, plus the 2.5 minutes to prime, so total 9 minutes.

**Shewie** · 10-09-2011, 23:44

Good stuff mate

I use a length of masking tape with holes spaced 5mm apart, I wrap it round a lynx can and they just line up perfectly.

Try another one with 1mm holes but a lot more of them, you should get a lower but more consistent flame.

**savagebushcraft** · 10-09-2011, 23:47

I'll give that a go Shewie, thanks.

**Ivan...** · 11-09-2011, 10:00

Oi Savage ! you are getting a bit good at this sort of thing! very good pal , i should know he has made me one and it works a treat , only coz i am too lazy , nice tutorial and photos , well done mate .

see you soon

Ivan...

**luckylee** · 11-09-2011, 10:22

i have also made a lot of these and have found that the 1.2 mill holes are perfect.
great tutorial mate.
take care
lee.

**savagebushcraft** · 11-09-2011, 11:47

Thanks Iv', will make you one of these, new smaller versions.

Thanks Lee. I'll have a go with the 1.2mm as well. Just out of curiosity, is that still with only 8 jets, or do you add more?

Adam

**ateallthepies** · 11-09-2011, 12:14

I just counted the holes in my twin walled pellet tin stove and have 15 1mm holes. My stove blooms almost straight away so my 9.5 minutes for one pint doesn't seem that good?

Steve.

**Gill** · 11-09-2011, 12:16

Thanks i likes that a lot , i have made a couple before i put some wicking material in before i clamped it .

**savagebushcraft** · 11-09-2011, 12:42

Originally Posted by ateallthepies

I just counted the holes in my twin walled pellet tin stove and have 15 1mm holes. My stove blooms almost straight away so my 9.5 minutes for one pint doesn't seem that good?

Steve.

I have used a pellet tin before too, same sort of time as your's. I'm not sure why they take longer. Maybe it's just that bit too thick, or because it's tin, not ali. No idea.

Thanks Gil. I've heard carbon fibre strand is good for the wick. I've tried fibreglass, but it never seems to make any difference on mine lol. Oh well, it's not all about speed. Your in the woods to live in harmony with it, make the most of a slower pace of life. I don't mind my cuppa taking a few minutes longer

**ateallthepies** · 11-09-2011, 13:00

Well it's back to the lab... er I mean garage for me then. Plenty of designs to try. Will try something made from Ali' next.

Steve.

**spandit** · 11-09-2011, 13:06

Has anyone tried seeing how a stove like this differs from just lighting a tin full of meths? Very pretty 'n' all but for rapidly heating water, does the flame pattern have any advantage?

I'd presume that once it's going, you could put a pan directly on top or would this extinguish it? Is the fuel actually wicking up the sides of the can (capillary action) or is it the vapour that's burning?

**savagebushcraft** · 11-09-2011, 13:24

Firstly, the jet pattern is only really there to provide even heat distribution, for cooking etc. It also seems to help conserve fuel a little.
Secondly, yes, Once the stove has "primed", the pan can be placed directly on the stove, with the jets still firing. The heat build up between the walls, pressurises the vapour inside, creating the jets. The pan on top keeps the temp high, while having several jets means if one should go out (due to wind or whatever) it will be reignited by the ones either side of it.

Not sure if any of that made sense or not, but I hope it did

Adam

**spandit** · 11-09-2011, 13:26

Must make one of these soon. Is it not safer to drill the holes before fitting the two halves (safer as in less likely to pierce the inner can)?

**savagebushcraft** · 11-09-2011, 13:52

It may be. I've always done it this way, as I wasn't sure if the holes in the outer, would weaken the wall, making it split or fold under compression. Another thing I will have to try.

Thanks for looking spandit.

Adam

**spandit** · 11-09-2011, 13:54

Originally Posted by savagebushcraft

It may be. I've always done it this way, as I wasn't sure if the holes in the outer, would weaken the wall, making it split or fold under compression. Another thing I will have to try.

Thanks for looking spandit.

Adam

Thanks for making it in the first place!

I see what you mean about weakening the structure. Do Trangias (and copies) have some form of fibre wick in them or do they work in a similar fashion to this somehow?

**savagebushcraft** · 11-09-2011, 14:34

I've never cut open a Trangia to see, but I have never noticed any small pieces of fibre fall out. Not saying that means they don't have any in them.

**Shewie** · 11-09-2011, 15:28

Originally Posted by spandit

Must make one of these soon. Is it not safer to drill the holes before fitting the two halves (safer as in less likely to pierce the inner can)?

You feel it go when it pops through the first layer, plenty of time to ease off with the drill anyhow

**ateallthepies** · 12-09-2011, 20:58

I know a fast boil time is not everything but this is starting to really bug me. With my Trangia and all the mini stoves I have been making the 100 degrees c rolling boil has been taking between 8.5 and 9.5 minutes for 1 pint or half a litre of straight out the tap water.

Just been watching a youtuber do a Trangia boil test with 1 litre of room temp water whatever that was and he was getting a rolling boil in 10 minutes! That is 1.5 minutes extra for double the water I use.

Would his water being room temperature against my probably colder water straight out the tap and the fact he used a full cook set against just my pot stand make such a difference in boil times?

Seems like whatever I try I can't get a 500ml boil going in under 8.5 minutes???? Is this normal?

Steve.

**savagebushcraft** · 12-09-2011, 22:41

A lot of the boil time depends on several things.

1: Heat being applied to the pan. The obvious one, but check to see if the flame covers the whole of the base of the pan, or is the heat being wasted beyond the base of the pan.

2: Heat loss. If you use stainless cookware, then this will act as a giant heat sink, taking heat away from the liquid inside. Also a lid should be used. Steam has five times the energy of the boiling water itself, so keeping any steam in accelerates the heating of the liquid. Plus a container too big, will have the same effect.

3: Ambient air temperature. Much like the cookware, the air can take heat away, especially with greater wind speeds and moisture content.

4: Start temperature. The least important, if you have the others right, the time it takes to get to that few degrees hotter, is negligible.

**ateallthepies** · 12-09-2011, 23:01

I have been using a small Trangia Aluminium kettle admittedly without a lid sat about 30mm above the Trangia stove on a pot rest in my garage. The flames in general are kept to the base of the kettle.

I will have to see if covering the small kettle opening makes a difference? I don't mind experimenting but it's gonna cost me a small fortune in meths, did almost 500ml tonight faffing around!!

Steve.

**Shewie** · 12-09-2011, 23:21

Trangias are never fast but they do get the job done eventually, a side burner like Adam has made are much hotter and generally more fuel efficient. Find or make a lid for the kettle and it will boil much faster without a doubt, a cosy fitting windshield helps a bunch too.

If you've got wider bottom pans then you can't go far wrong with a sideburner.

**savagebushcraft** · 12-09-2011, 23:25

I'll run a boil test with my aluminum Stesco (it's the nearest I have to a trangia), with the full 1L. Will report back as soon as the results are in and post a video.

**PDA1** · 12-09-2011, 23:32

@Atealthepies - I have the Clas Ohlsen knock off off the Trangia full cook set. The wind protection of the upper half of the set, and the fact that the bottom raises the burner off the (cold) ground makes an enormous difference. I have heated 2 cups + of water at about 5 deg c in ambient 5 c (ie, fuel and burner were cold) in 5 1/2 minutes. This was outside on a campsite table early in the morning.The shape of the windscreen, which totally envelopes the pan, directs the flame and hot exhaust up and along the pot sides, and the enclosed space reflects heat back down to the burner, encouraging the alcohol to vapourise better, . and so make the flames even bigger. I believe the enclosing windscreen is the most important part, as the Caldera cone system also works very effectively outdoors. All alcohol stove flames are pretty weak compared to gas or liquid fuel stoves and are very easily blown away from the pot unless confined by an effective windscreen. I would strongly recommend the Clas Ohlsen Asaklitt set (UKP 10 vs Trangia UKP 40
http://www.clasohlson.co.uk/Product/...x?id=164029951
See some reviews at
http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/...header-81212WC

(which is where I bought mine)

or the Caldera cone system sized to your pot and burner if you want lighter and smaller packing for back-packing,
Some complain the the Asaklitt burner is fragile compared with a pukka Trangia. i say don't step on it or kick it around the camp site and it will be fine, it's stronger than my home made pop can stoves.
I have no commercial interest in either of those concerns but am a (very) satisfied customer.

**savagebushcraft** · 13-09-2011, 00:19

Ok, just filmed this mini stove. As it stands, in ambient 14°C-15°C, with water temp 14°C-15°C, stove at 15°C-17°C (not sure why it was warmer) boil time for 1L was a miserable 12:42. Which isn't very good. The larger version has returned times of 6.5 minutes - 7 minutes, quite regularly.
The video is being processed at the moment, but I don't think I need to prove such a poor time lol

Thread: Miniature Aluminium Alcohol Stove

Thread Tools

Display

Miniature Aluminium Alcohol Stove

Posting Permissions