GB Double-bit axe: first impressions

[xavierdoc]

Gransfors Bruks Double-bit 35 inch working axe.

I had hoped to get this in time to use it during the Christmas hols but it didn't arrive in time. The trusty Stihl stepped up instead.

Anyhow, below is the link to my first impressions of the axe based purely on handling it in the house:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSoPDkDoYgs

It's up to the usual standard of GB kit -my hands are itching to put it to work. Hopefully Cegga will try his hand at an equivalent (maybe he already has?)

[mr dazzler]

LOL only yesterday my mate next door but one showed me his new double axe from GB. It was sharp. And I noticed evrything was lined up perfectly. The only downside was the slightly "flimsy" axe sheath. Should possibly of been thicker leather? But he is going to make new ones any way. He paid £103.....He has used it on oak and chestnut, he said it is a beauty

[xavierdoc]

The only downside was the slightly "flimsy" axe sheath. Should possibly of been thicker leather?

That's a very good point which I forgot to mention. The axe was shipped in a large box stuffed with screwed up newspaper. During its travels it must have slid inside the box and the tip of one of the faces had cut through the bent-over end of the leather sheath. I'll post a pic when I get the chance.

I'm going to make a sturdier cover, possibly using sole leather for the welt and thick, stiffened veg-tanned to prevent the fold-over that has occured with factory supplied one.

[HillBill]

I had one, i sold it a while back on here. Great axes though they take some getting used to, They can be quite scary at first

[SOAR]

What will you be using the axe for? Early foresters used double bit axes for felling, one side was sharp for limbing and chopping the other blunter for splitting. If its for Bushcraft I dont see the point myself.

[sandbender]

What will you be using the axe for? Early foresters used double bit axes for felling, one side was sharp for limbing and chopping the other blunter for splitting.

On the Gränsfors axe one edge is harder than the other, one for softer wood, one for harder, both sides are equally sharp however from memory the edge geometry is slightly different on each side.

You can identify which side is which by lightly tapping each bit with your fingernail, the side that produces the higher note is the harder side intended for cutting softer wood.

I have used this axe before and as Xavierdoc explains in the video it has a lovely balance.

If its for Bushcraft I dont see the point myself.

It probably is a bit chunky for the UK, however for anyone heading of to the mountains to build a log cabin from scratch it'll be ideal, Dick Proenneke had one.



Interestingly this axe no longer appears on the GB website, only the double bit throwing axe is shown.

[mr dazzler]

My mates idea was to use a stiffer thicker leather, still with a welt, and have a buckle strap either side to hold the 2 sheath's together.

[SOAR]

Shouldn't the harder edge be for hard wood?

[Dave Budd]

I haven't tested the hardness of teh edges, but I can't imaging the two edges having different hardnesses. Having reprofiled and sharpened one by hand (as in reprofile with a file and sharpen with paper), they felt the same hardness and wear-resistance. The different pitch is more likely to be due to the fact that one blade is slightly thicker than the other

[SOAR]

So one could be for limbing (thinner) the other for splitting (wider)?

[Dave Budd]

can't remember off top of my heade, but splitting with a double head is a bit silly (dangerous). I thik it's more likely that either thicker for felling and thinner for snedding, or thicker to start and thinner once the grit-encrusted bark is got through.

[SOAR]

or a sharp end for limbing and the other more blunt end for cutting near the ground.

[SOAR]

TBH if you really wanted to get out into the woods to build a log cabbin you'd take a chainsaw and some splitting wedges, dont get me wrong nice looking axe just dont see the point myself.

[HillBill]

The fine edge is for lopping trees down, the thicker end is for knot work or anywhere where the finer edge may get damaged. Definately not for splitting,. An experienced user could limb with one but this is a felling axe by design. It has a 35" handle and is a big, long tool.

You cant use them well in the summer months with our overgrown woods without first clearing the area and you need at least 7 feet of clearance all around.

[British Red]

I've owned one of these for about three years now. I have lost count of the splitting and chopping work its done. I'm always intrigues as to why people think a double bit is dangerous? I have never hit myself with the poll of a single bit axe so can't begin to imagine why I would hit myself with the non-use blade of a double bit?

I must say on my (old) one I believe there to be no difference between the blades - there is no trace of a Nessmuk grind.

The balance and heft is lovely on the axe. Its not a repalcement for a maul and wedges and neither would I sned with it - I can't imagine a limbing axe that large - I use a scandinavian forest for snedding and its perfect for the job. For rendering quartered rounds to stove size however it needs far less energy than a maul. It works for me in a "homestead" capacity

Red

[SOAR]

snedding can be done when the tree is felled, alot of loggers used double bit axes and took them up in the tree hanging from their belt, there is no hard and fast rule.

[sandbender]

Shouldn't the harder edge be for hard wood?

If one of the bits is indeed harder and (from memory) thicker than the other then surely that would be the edge to use on harder wood, knot work and such?

TBH if you really wanted to get out into the woods to build a log cabbin you'd take a chainsaw..."

If there is a navigable track or river for at least some of the year then I guess that would be the way to go. I don't think Dick had that luxury though.

[SOAR]

If one of the bits is indeed harder and (from memory) thicker than the other then surely that would be the edge to use on harder wood, knot work and such?

Ah.


If there is a navigable track or river for at least some of the year then I guess that would be the way to go. I don't think Dick had that luxury though.

good old Dick, got to admire him.

[forestwalker]

Rutstrum suggests the double bit axe for long trips, since if you damage one edge you still have one left.

[British Red]

snedding can be done when the tree is felled, alot of loggers used double bit axes and took them up in the tree hanging from their belt, there is no hard and fast rule.

It would be bleeding tough to sned a proper tree any other way. The reason I use a scandinavian is the helve is long enough to sand on one side of the trunk and remove limbs on the other (one handed).

I'd also love to see someone carry a full size working axe up a tree and then swing it . Damn thing has a 3 foot handle for a kick off and can't be used one handed - what did they do with something that size up a tree?

Red

[Peter_t]

I'd also love to see someone carry a full size working axe up a tree and then swing it . Damn thing has a 3 foot handle for a kick off and can't be used one handed - what did they do with something that size up a tree?

Red

they did it like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcEto...ayer_embedded#

pete

[SOAR]

you have to remember that every limb they encountered had to be cut off when climbing and as in the film Peter posted the guy only has an axe.

[British Red]

I'd love to watch that - sadly my dial up doesn't like youtube - perils of living int he sticks I guess