What are people wearing/doing to camoflage themselves when stalking and tracking

[Leigh Robinson]

As an additional post to my Gillie suits one. I read people are using various techniques to disguise themselves when tracking/stalking and looking like swamp thing may not be the best method. Plus that and my girlfriend still refuses to let me buy it.

What are people using?

I read on that thread about masks, gloves, de-scenting soaps, sprays etc. I know nothing about these. Please can you share your methods for preparing to stalk/track animals.

Thanks for all the people who posted about gillie suits. I will not be buying one just yet!

[GreyOne]

I use neutral colored clothing, a plaid Pendleton shirt for preference.
Gloves, a stocking cap, a mosquito headnet to cover face and hands and old bald head <g>. Deer seem to see more a B/W vision than color, so much "camoflage" is wasted effort for hunting. The key to stalking is wind/ scent awareness and control, and movement control.

One thing I do use camo for, when hunting. I have a Swiss Alpenflage poncho that I can set in among the bushes in a lot of places. It is large and roomy, seems to help keep scent down for a time, and most important, it disguises the human form or outline. I add a "sniper veil" -about 6 foot of camo mesh (mosquito cloth). This, wrapped around head and shoulders, further breaks up the human shape.
This outfit is not ideal for walking as it may be a bit noisy, but it is in effect a mini blind when setting still.

Moving quietly means learning to walk like a woodsman, not like a city person. That is hard to describe, but a good country stalker can show you how in a few minutes, and with practice you will eventually learn to do it fairly well.

Walk slowly, stand still when not moving, move upwind or crosswind when possible, cover the "shine" of face and hands, break up your outline, and be very very quiet. You will see more than you ever thought.

[HillBill]

I use advantage timber pattern camo in the autumn and winter and Advantage timber trousers and Dpm top in the spring and summer. They work well. The more green pattern top blends well with the trousers, You look like a tree to an animal that sees shades of grey, you have the same contrast. I always wear gloves and face mask too. The best way to hide scent is to rub soil over your clothes and do not wash them unless you absoloutly have to

Some examples

Full Adv timber




See how well it works. The blue rucksack don't help but that got stashed with the air bottle inside



The green on brown, soaked to the skin after crawling 100+ yards on my belly accross a dew drenched fairway to drop a hare from 50ish yards

[Chainsaw]

Does camouflage work when you're moving? I would have thought it was more sound and scent as well as the obvious not getting skylined etc. But then again I know very little about it.

Cheers,

Alan

[HillBill]

Does camouflage work when you're moving? I would have thought it was more sound and scent as well as the obvious not getting skylined etc. But then again I know very little about it.

Cheers,

Alan

That depends on what you wear and where you are, how fast you move etc. Trees blow and move in the wind, if its windy and your colours match the surroundings then yes you can get away with it, If its a still day in winter and you wear green and move about then it wont look right to quarry and they will notice.

[welshwhit]

I wear a similar set up to Hillbill

I use the advantage timber and hardwoods green patterns as well as DPM.

The face net and gloves are very important as your looking to disguise the human form and disrupt continuous colours.

A hat is a good idea to create shadows over your face too.

I must admit I have never used special soaps to hide my scent, my grandad always taught me to exploit the wind and terrain, not to be lazy and move to where your approach is into the wind, and this seems to do the trick!

A good friend of mine with considerable experience also swears by camouflaging the rifle too, saying there is nothing black in nature! I don't know how much affect this has, but i wrap my rifle in Stealth tape, which also protects the rifle a bit too.

I think the most important things to remember are, disrupt your natural outline, cover your skin, and disrupt the colours and patterns you wear [there are loads of ways to do this, I wear a baggy set of clothes rather than close fitting] and move gently and you should get close enough for a shot!

But find a system that works for you, and that is comfortable! You don't want to alert the quarry by thrashing around frustrated by your clothing!


Drew

[Chainsaw]

That depends on what you wear and where you are, how fast you move etc. Trees blow and move in the wind, if its windy and your colours match the surroundings then yes you can get away with it, If its a still day in winter and you wear green and move about then it wont look right to quarry and they will notice.

If you're moving at a different rate/direction from trees does it not stand out?

Also If its a still day in winter and you wear camouflage and move about then will they not notice too?

Not trying to be bolshy just trying to understand why they won't notice, you can spot deer from miles away when they move but they are murder to spot when they're stationary, they blend in very well to the background of the hill.

Cheers,

Alan

[HillBill]

If you're moving at a different rate/direction from trees does it not stand out?

Also If its a still day in winter and you wear camouflage and move about then will they not notice too?

Not trying to be bolshy just trying to understand why they won't notice, you can spot deer from miles away when they move but they are murder to spot when they're stationary, they blend in very well to the background of the hill.

Cheers,

Alan

It's impossible to make yourself invisible. Movement is always your biggest giveaway if you have got everything else right.

But the habitat you shoot makes the most difference to "how" you go about your business.

In a wood, movement is bad as they will see you first, stationary shooting is the way forward. Or if there is two of you. One enter the wood from one side, the other at the opposite. On is static the other moving towards him. This has a tendancy to drive quarry towards the static shooter and is a productive tactic for woodland. Do not even worry about wind direction in a wood, its all over the place.

If shooting in field systems/open land then stalking is the way forward. But keep things between you and the place you are going. I have crawled a long way accross open fairway on a golf course using a 12" high 12" bit of thistle as cover and not been seen by quarry. If you move directly towards a rabbit for example and hide your 2 legs( walk sideways or have legs pulled tightly together) you can get within 15 yards before they bolt. they do not recognise you as human as we are bipedal, Not human means less danger. You may also notice a rabbit bobbing its head up and down, they do this to judge distance. The more you move the closer you are

[Chainsaw]

So for stalking and tracking where you will definitely be moving camouflage is of very little benefit. I think that when stationary then camouflage is the way to go, no question about that, you'd almost be better with a 4'x4' veil to throw over you when you stopped.

Cheers,

Alan

[Siberianfury]

i generaly wear just my greeny brown jacket, and dpm trousers and a dpm hat.

[HillBill]

So for stalking and tracking where you will definitely be moving camouflage is of very little benefit. I think that when stationary then camouflage is the way to go, no question about that, you'd almost be better with a 4'x4' veil to throw over you when you stopped.

Cheers,

Alan

It still makes you harder to see the purpose of it is to break up your human outline.

[spamel]

Love the story of the stalk across the fairway to get to a hare. I've had a very similar stalk down a slight incline in the middle of a farmers' field onto a hare. I was wearing gloves and an issued windproof smock with the hood up, ditched my bag at the top of the hill and crawled about forty yards to the hare. Near the end, every inch I crawled I expected the hare to get up and run which would have been a bummer as I had crawled so far and put in such effort on the stalk. I gave myself a target to reach, a clump of grass, and then I would take the shot. I reached it and put the hare down in one, a very successful stalk and it was a great feeling that I could move over completely open ground into a firing position without disturbing my prey. Fortunately for me, it was a warm summers day and the hare was pretty much snoozing in the sun, and I wasn't soaked through and shivering!

Lessons to be learnt on the stalk will become apparent over time and you will still make mistakes or miss opportunities. Some animals are a bit more wary and will bolt at the slightest movement or sound whilst others will sit long enough for you to pop one into them. Remember, things are seen for a reason, if you can eliminate them then you give yourself a better chance.

Shape - Man is a unique shape, if you can break that shape up by either crawling so that you look like a four legged animal or wearing a massive ghillie head set to break up the shape then you will give yourself a better chance. Personally, I just pop the hood up on my windpoof smock and crouch over!

Shine - Skin will reflect light, and it doesn't matter if you are black or white skinned. Cover it with camouflaged cloth or get some cam cream on! Don't forget to take it off before you leave your shoot if you opt for the cam cream, folk will think you are weird otherwise!

Shadow - Difficult if you're in open ground, but if there are large trees then skirt alongside them.

Silhouette - Don't skyline yourself, keep a good backdrop of trees and foliage if you can. If you are readying yourself to take a shot and have stalked into position, then don't climb on top of the mound to shoot but come round the side. Only your head and shoulders will be visible and you won't be right up against the sky casting your silhouette.

Sound - Creep about like a ninja and stow your rattling kit properly. I used to take a water bottle shooting to keep hydrated but the glugging noise of a half filled water bottle seemed really loud to me so I canned it. I could wear a camelbak instead.

Smell - Your scent is made up of man made chemical soaps, fried breakfasts and beer! You want to smell of mud and twigs! Animals will find your smell alien and will take notice of it. Use the wind to your advantage and stop washing. Roll in mud and twigs and explain to the missus that it really is necessary. Expect to be sleeping on the couch for some time!

Spacings - Only a problem if you are shooting with a whole bunch of other people, I doubt animals would pick up on it but it is what a human would pick out straight away. Straight lines, such as a gun barrel, could give yo away. That is the reason snipers cam their rifles up. You can break up the shape of your rifle by simply wrapping it in one of the old issue face veils. Remove it after shooting, especially if it was raining, you don't want your rifle to rust.

Movement - This, IMO, is the one thing that will give you away. I have crept up on young rabbits to within a few metres DURING THE DAY before I was noticed. I was wearing the trusty windproof, no special cam gear. I once caught a young rabbit in my Tilley hat and put it in my pocket, Ratbag made me put it back though! That was at night, but if you move slowly, you will do better. You can move faster when in the shadow of trees, crouched over, or by using other terrain features to your advantage. Sound may then give you away though.

All in all, it is a combination of things that will give the game away: the stick under the leaves that you didn't see and snapped, getting caught on the barbed wire and it pings as your jacket rips free, loose pellets in a tin shaking, etc. If you can eliminate all of these, then you give yourself a greater chance.

So basically, a good DPM jacket (washed in soap flakes is a bad idea as they contain UV brighteners which animals may see. Just rinse it through and hang it on the washing line for a few weeks. The sun will break down UV brighteners, the rain will wash it out too, and the wind will rid it of unnatural smells.) with some basic gloves to cover the hands and a face veil and hat, good trousers and a pair of boots will see you right. Remember, even polish on your boots will give off a scent, so be careful what you do before you go out.

[Shewie]

Quality post Spamel

That golf course looks familiar Mark, is it Panel ?

[Bushwhacker]

Good advice from Spam.

One thing that hasn't really been touched on and should be the first thing to do though is;
KNOW YOUR QUARRY.

Primary senses - Does your quarry rely on sight, smell, hearing?

Time of day - Nocturnal, Diurnal, Crepuscular.

Terrain - Cover. Availability of food items (plants for herbivores or prey for carnivores). Water sources

Use this knowledge of your quarry to your advantage, play to their weaknesses.

[Leigh Robinson]

Really glad I posted the questions now as there has been a great response.

Has anyone got URL's to sites with the equipment e.g. face veils?

I am thinking now perhaps I should buy a stalking/tracking set of clothes and keep them in the woods. Perhaps hanging them in a tree. Not washing them. I thought perhaps not washing would just make them smell much more of human?

What about natural to synthetic fibres? are animals such as deer that sensitive that it could make a difference?

I discussion on this forum has enlightened me much more than reading a few good tracking books. Thanks people!

[spamel]

Synthetics are more likely to make a noise as you move in them, think goretex trousers! "Swish! Swish! Swish!" as you walk! Stick to synthetics, or at least stay away from the shells that swish whenever you move in them.

[welshwhit]

These guys sponsor my shooting club and they are good blokes, they have a website - Tony's Camo but I recommend ringing them and asking for a fella by the name of Nige.

Tell him the sort of terrain you're heading to and he'll sort you right out.

Saying that army surplus shops are good for camo clothing and cheaper usually.

hth

Drew

[HillBill]

Quality post Spamel

That golf course looks familiar Mark, is it Panel ?

Its Dewsbury golf links Rich. Now devoid of rabbits for the most part, Myxi had 'em all last year.

[w00dsmoke]

If I'm actually tracking and stalking (without the kill), I tend to wear dpm as it's tough as heck and cheap. If it gets wet, ripped or torn it's easy patched up and it's quiet too. If I'm out on the hill and want to be discrete I have an ultra lightweight mesh smock and trousers in real tree or advantage, which is fabulously convenient. It rolls up to the size of a tennis ball and weighs next to nothing. Well worth the £60 or so squid I paid for it about 8 years ago.

By the way if you want to walk very quietly, use an old pair of worn trainers with knee high goretex socks inside. You'll be walking so slow, slipping won't be a problem and you can "feel" the terrain under your feet and become a bit closer to being the land that you are in for a successful stalk.

I've taught this to many folk and have never failed to get people to successfully sneak up on things and sneaking away from them by using these kind of techniques.

[C_Claycomb]

I started with DPM, but as many have said, it is a bit dark for most conditions. Great for crawling around dark pine forests, but mixed open fields and ash woodland have a lot more light brown/khaki.

I used to have grandparents in the US and was wearing the first generation Realtree http://www.realtree.com/camo/ at least 6 months before the air gun magazines even started talking about that type of camo (I recall that Mossy Oak arrived here first). Anyway, I bought gear from Cabelas, which may be an awkward place, but their catalog is fantastic, a huge wish list, and if nothing else it shows a lot of gear in one place, which you can then go and track down locally.
http://www.cabelas.com/

Many have commented that most game see only in black and white, therefore all this fancy camo is a waste. I will go with that to some degree. Certainly a lot of the patterns are made to ambush shopping hunters! Some look a lot better close up than they do at distance, but having the choice of patterns and colour schemes such that you can better match your local area has to be better than having to accept whatever the army has too much of! Also, you aren't just hiding from little fury mammals with poor colour vision. You also want to be invisible to birds. Some may be targets for your gun or camera, many more will simply sound a piercing alarm if they detect your presence. There are few things as annoying as being scolded by an unseen wren when you are trying to be invisible!

However well camoed up you are, if you are walking upright, you are going to be visible. Having no bare skin, muted clothing, patterns that break up your shape and tones/shades that match the background help a lot. At a great distance clothing of the right colour, even if it isn’t camo, can make you all but invisible even while you are moving. When I used to shoot I did a lot more still hunting and used instant ground blinds a lot more than I stalked. Stalking, to me, implied spotting one or more animals, or a feature likely to contain said critter, and creeping up on that spot, more or less ignoring everything else. Still hunting was what went before that, moving through the wood very slowly, going from one patch of shade to another and keeping a 360degree look out. Every so often I would drop into some cover and sit there for a while. Camo made a big difference every time I stopped moving. The woods took less time to get back to normal and anything that was just around the corner, and hadn’t seen me move, was much more likely to hang around.

Leigh, if you are able to get yourself to the Midland Game Fair, its a good place to go looking at kit. Its coming up in about three weeks.

[Chinkapin]

FYI : all animals have a flight distance that does not vary hardly at all within the species.. What I mean by this, is that once an animal spots you, it will not necessarily run off immediately. It will continue to browse (all the while keeping an eye on you) until you get into their flight distance. There personal space "bubble" if you will. -- That distance between you and them that is uncomfortably close for them -- at that point, they will flee.

Some animals and birds bolt very early, other much later.

Pheasants and quail and i'm sure other birds as well, are well known for flying relatively late in the early part of hunting season and taking flight much sooner, later in the season. As they become more acutely attuned to the fact that they are being hunted, the sooner they flee.

Having a general idea about the flight distance of the animal that you are hunting will give you a distinct edge as to knowing when to stalk farther or stop stalking and take the shot. I suppose you might find this data online somewhere, but the best way to get it is to just observe what happens as you stalk closer and closer.

Please remember, I'm talking about after you have been seen.

[Chinkapin]

One of the simplest, and best winter camoflage outfits I have ever run across is the German Army winter smock. It is a hooded pull-over design. It is a one size fits all design. I'm 5 ft. 9in. and it comes nearly to my ankles. Actually a bit long for me, but any seamstress could alter one quite cheaply, i'm sure.

I have seen them in plain white and in white with a scattering of clumps of green pine needles. This is the one I prefer. If you are in a coniferous forest and there is snow on the trees, you just disappear.

Nice thing about the hood is you can wear any cap you like, and you still have your white camoflage. I was able to buy mine very cheaply.

By the way, when i'm hunting in the winter, i wrap my gun with some strips of white sheet that my wife was going to throw away. Works great.

Another tip, they sell a tape here in the U.S. called Coban tape. As far as I know it was first used to wrap the legs of race horses, later used by medical doctors in place of adhesive tape. It does not stick to what ever you are applying it to but it sticks to itself. It can be removed and used over again, several times. You can but it in many bright colors, but it comes in white (good for winter) and I have just seen it showing up in a camo configuration,.

[Chance]

Has anyone who hunts regularly with camo ever had a go without, to see how much difference it makes in their success ?

I've never taken the step beyond a wax jacket, and wanted to know if it'll be worth it. And is there one thing that has more effect than the others (glass, face, hands, pattern, outline) ?


(OK, I'll admit to occasional hat use to confuse the pigeons)

[tommy the cat]

This is an interesting thread with the old rut coming up and all....I really want to get some good pic's as its my first rut with a decent lens. I was looking at ghillie suits but the always seem really rustly however I will now read the other thread and see what was said.My army buddy used to get a hessian sack and poke stuff like bracken in to it but alas may not be for me. I think alot of belly sliding will be in order this autumn!
Dave

[Chinkapin]

Tommy the Cat: I have sit beside a deer trail (maybe 5 m. off the trail, no more) with a ghillie suit on, and on the same day, in about a 2 or 3 hour period had a fox, an armadillo, and a deer walk past me without so much as a glance from the fox or the nearsighted armadillo. The deer, interestingly enough was walking/browsing and would periodically stop and look directly at me. Apparently something about me did not look quite right or smell quite right, but she never became alarmed. She just slowly browsed her way on down the trail.

If you are not actually hunting, just position yourself where you might expect to see deer, or whatever you are out to photograph, ghillie up and sit very still. I cannot overemphasize the fact that you must sit STILL. If you are prone to fidgiting and squirming about, you are not going to have a good outcome, most likely.

It is a good idea to cut some branches off of nearby trees and stick them in the ground in front of you to further help break up your pattern. Nothing excessive, you are not trying to hide behind them. Just break up your pattern.

Belly sliding is really not necessary if you pick a good location and/or have a good telephoto lens. If you go to crawling about, you are almost certainly going to be seen.

It has been mentioned in this thread that ghillie suits snag on everything you pass. This is probably an understatement. Don't attempt to walk in the woods wearing a ghillie suit, Unless you are into "frustration." It is really a stationary blind. Find a large tree to lean back against. This hides you from anything coming from behind, and allows you to rest your back (the smoother the bark the better!)

If you are young, it works to just sit on the ground. I strongly advise a piece of high density foam between you and the ground for comfort and to stop the inevitable dampness. If you are older, this position will be killing you after about 15 minutes. In that case, sit on the lowest stool that will work for you. There are some very low camp stools available, that are quite light.

If you need to move a bit, and you will, do it in slow-motion.

Don't forget to de-scent you and your clothing. This is extremely important.

All of this advice is based on years of successful turkey hunting. A turkey is probably the wiliest bird that there is. They have excellent vision and are apparently genetically "wired" to spot movement. What I have told you works on them. I have had them come within just a few yards of me. I have never took a turkey that wasn't under 35 yards. Oftentime, considerably less. Good luck with the camera.

[dogwood]

I don't use cammo at all, just earth toned clothing (varies based on season and environment).

I generally only stalk if, after glassing the area, I see something worthwhile.

Most of the time, I scout deer trails (I usually hunt deer) and then locate myself in the crook of a large downed tree, shifting the branches around for a natural blind. Or I get n the treeline near a meadow. Then I wait. It's an approach that generally delivers results.

However, what I do use habitually is a smallish blanket that I drape over myself when waiting. And I'll pin it and tie it to my waist when moving.

My favorite hunting blanket has dark green and dark greenish gray stripes -- when bunched up around me the stripes turn into a random pattern. You can toss some leaves on top of the blanket if you like.

I find the blanket completely breaks up my form -- only a few inches of rifle barrel sticks out -- and it makes the waiting extremely comfortable. A nice tightly woven wool will shed light rain, is great in the snow and keeps you warm and comfy from the wind.

Also, if you arrange it right, you can move a little *under* the blanket without shifting the top around and alerting the prey.

If, when stalking, you encounter prey close, slowly dropping to the ground near a tree and pulling the blanket over you turns you into a pile of forest debris in the eyes of the prey.

A blanket bound around you properly doesn't snag very much unless you're in very dense cover -- and you can always roll it up if snags become a problem.

It really works extremely well for me, whether hunting or simply game spotting. I've literally had deer walk three feet from me when under my blanket.

It is *not* that great for bow hunting, but I still take my blanket then because I can rig it into a blind.

My habit is to rub the blanket in the ground in the area where I'm hunting to have it take on a more natural smell. I usually do this a couple of times a day to prevent my smell from building up on the blanket.

I believe -- but I'm not sure -- that this helps suppress my scent. When I'm under the blanket, wind moving over me doesn't carry my scent as much as the blankets. Or at least that's what I hope.

(I use blankets for sleeping too, but now I usually sleep under a different blanket than my "hunting blanket" to avoid scent accumulation. In really cold weather, though, well...)

Tommy the cat, such a setup could be very handy for you when you're out taking photos too.

I know, it's not all high-tech and gear-ish, but this low tech approach has worked well for me from Alaska to the West Coast to Arizona to the mountains of West Virginia, where I learned to hunt with a blanket as a youngster. Trust me, when it comes to hunting, if you get a chance to learn from hillbillies, take it....

[Chance]

Blanket around the waist ? I had to read a bit further, because I read "kilt".
(which of course have there own snagging problems when the thistles are high)

[dogwood]

Blanket around the waist ? I had to read a bit further, because I read "kilt".
(which of course have there own snagging problems when the thistles are high)

I just checked on Youtube and there's a video of a guy doing it almost the same way I do:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ni7a6BVhYZM

and this is even closer because he uses cord to tie the waist:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36edZ0FtTU8

(In both these videos, they fiddle more with the hood than I do. I find it better to drape the head, tie the waist and then pin the neck. Faster that way..)

It's kind of an old fashioned thing, goes back to the frontier days in the states (matchcoats) and middle ages in Europe. When I lived in West Virginia for a while as a kid, everyone in my area hunted in Pendletons and blankets.

You've got a lot of flexibility with a blanket. Snags can be a problem with any clothing in very brambly environments, naturally. But you can always take it off, roll it up and keep moving until you find your spot.

[Chinkapin]

Has anyone who hunts regularly with camo ever had a go without, to see how much difference it makes in their success ?

I've never taken the step beyond a wax jacket, and wanted to know if it'll be worth it. And is there one thing that has more effect than the others (glass, face, hands, pattern, outline) ?


(OK, I'll admit to occasional hat use to confuse the pigeons)

Chance, I'll try to answer your questions as briefly as possible. I spent most of my life hunting without camo. You do not NEED camo. However, its effective, fairly cheap, and easy to wear. As several others have stated subdued earth tones will work quite well. Camo probably is the simplest and easiest way to "blend in". A ghillie suit is undoubtedly the best way to "blend in" but, is a major hassle. Plus' you alway run the risk of some jackass thinking you are Bigfoot and taking a shot at you. (Don't laugh, a kid who was planning on frightening some friends in the woods, put on a gorilla suit and was shot and killed by a hunter last year.)

None of the great hunters of renown even knew what camo was, but did very well nevertheless. I'll wager the likes of Davy Crockett, Dan'l Boone, and others blended in very well wearing their bukskins and coonskin caps.

Dogwood's blanket idea is seldom seen anymore but it is a "golden oldie" that apparently works very well. I would suggest a wool blanket for warmth and for the shedding of rain. But, I will be the first to admit that I have never tried it, but I think, particularly in clold weather it would be just the ticket.

I would say, and this is somewhat of a guess; breaking up the "human" pattern, is the most important. also, not to be repetitious, but, cover the white, shiny skin.

The wax jacket should be just fine if it is in those typical chocolate brown and loden greens that you usually find them in, or some earth tone.

The hat is a very good idea on several levels; cold, rain, sun, and if it has a floppy brim it breaks the shape of the human head and and shadows the face as well. Stick with the hat.

I hope this answers the questions that you raised. Good luck with whatever kit you come up with.

[HillBill]

You do not NEED camo. .

While i do wear camo, i agree with this.