large knife design?

[Dave Budd]

I'm looking to add a LARGE knfie to my range of regular bushcraft knives, but I can't settle on a design. So I thought I would ask for the opinion of those who I will be trying to sell them too!

Size will be limited by what I can comfortably heat treat in my workshop, so no more than a foot long blade, preferably I will be sticking to about 10" as it makes my life easier. The tang WILL be a stick tang, no choice there I'm afraid (I'm a tool user and abuser and the only stick tang I have had fail on a large blade was when I ran a 7 tonne digger over it).

The blade shape and angle are where I'm dithering. When I use a large blade I tend to go for a billhook, but i understand that they have their limitations in bushcraft due to the hook on most patterns.

Is a down cranked handle (like a kukri), or up cranked handle (like a parang) better than a straight handle (like a golok, machete, etc) best?

Is a straight, upcurved or recurved blade prefered?

A blunt point (like a golok), drop point, spear point or bulbous end better?



So people, what should I try out? The first prototype(s) will be coming with me to the Wilderness Gathering, so you can have a play and tell me what you think

n.b. I was going to do this as a poll, but can't work out how

[Siberianfury]

I think the most usable blade shape would be similar to that of a leuku, but perhaps slightly thicker towards the tip n order to give more power to a swing. As for grind i think a high scandi grind wth a small secondary bevel to retain strength when chopping.
i am also going to the wilderness gathering so i would be interested to see how it turns out.

[Native Justice]

You might want to consider Fallknivens A2 design as a starting point. Exceptional utility in a bowie shaped long knife. The other choice might be to look at the shape of the Bark River Camp Knife shape. A little heavier but very useful as well.

[redneck]

You'll want a Leuku, if it's good enough for generations of Sami, it's good enough for us..

[FGYT]

Dave hopfully i will have finished my Big Chopper forthe wilderness gathering to just have to work out how to heat treat it on the patio with out a Chip pan fire

its from a 14" farrier rasp file I have 4 currently this is the first shape



fairly close to my first ever knife blade shape but with a MOD knife shape handle.
would like to stick tang one as it will make it bigger to use the File tang




grind is convex and variable so a lot finer for the first 3-4 inches and probably will make the tip finer as well.
these are a little bigger than your thinking of but the old one ive used over 20 yrs (made at college back when you could)


ATB

Duncan

[Dave Budd]

I've been heading towards a straight blade and inline with the handle, but I've been wavering between a flat edge (like a sheepsfoot blade or Knighton pattern billhook), a straight back (like a leuko) and an abrupt drop point (like fygt's).

I did in a moment of madness think about an almost Smatchet shape, but that would soon get anoying making those

[Mesquite]

I've got to admit that I really liked the feel and weight of the 'Big Chopper' you had at the Bushmoot Dave.

It handled well and just felt 'right' in my hand so much so if I had of had the readies I would have bought it

[Dave Budd]

good to have the input. thanks folks

I'm not going down the kukri route as I don't fancy forging them repeatedly. whatever I come up with has to be something that I'm happy to repeat

I'm now heading for a 10" blade that has a a slighty curve to the edge (maybe 1/4" over the length) and a kinda curved seax-like clip. The the handle will come out straight but hook down slightly at the end.

Sounds odd, but when I woke up at 3am it seemed perfect. All I have to do is make it and see

I think the shape will depend on what people are used to and what they plan to do with it. I'm too used to using my slightly curved billhook for woodland management primarily, so it's hard to see what bushcrafters are going to like

[Hoodoo]

This was my idea for a large chopper. approx. 1/8" thick, forged 5160 made by Paul Savage, based on a smaller knife of his design. Very light on the hip. I don't care to lug a heavy knife around much.

[British Red]

I've long wanted a big chopper that I can get on. I started playing with Khukris but couldn't really get the hang of them. I tried a Wiseman survival tool but it weighed a ton and was too "crude" in use. Flirted with a Becker Brute - that was good enough to occupy a space but lacked chopping finesse. Played with a Leuku but found it too light for use sans baton.

The 10" Elwell Knighton I have is about as close as I have got. Heavy enough to split a 6 log round at a blow, great at cutting stakes, thatch and bedding. Lacks the hook that gets in the way with other hooks. It has of course the huge forward weight due to the massive depth over the sheepsfoot end. Its a chopper / slasher not a slicer allright, but it does well in that space. I think without the forward weight (which the becker lacked), it compromises the splitting ability to a point where I'ts not effective in a broad enough range of tasks. A bit more curve to the blade would be nice (mine is dead flat). Sounds like the sort of thing you have in mind Dave and I can't see why it wouldn't work

Red

[smoggy]

I would have thought the design would be determined primarily by its intended use.......

I have a hedging tool which is most effective for it intended purpose, but dislike it otherwise as it is handed, I much prefer my 16" machette for rearanging the scenery! LOL

Smoggy.

[Draven]

You've got a forge, test some out!

I think purpose changes it significantly. I've never done any real brush clearance, but I imagine that something like the latest rambo knife would be good, with a distal taper; the blade is relatively straight which I imagine would help stop stuff glancing off at the end, and the distal taper should make it a bit quicker in the hand and easier on the wrist, forearm and elbow - I can't help but think that something tip-heavy would be pretty laborious to swing right through things, whereas if they're chopping they're hitting something significant.

I think that a similar blade profile would be useful for chopping, with the straight back making it easier to apply downward force with a batton. Ultimately though I think something like what BR showed would be better so you could skip the batton altogether I guess there may be a tradeoff between the effort you want to exert carrying it, and the effort you want to exert using it.

Pete

[robevs73]

dave, the handle on saxens sword is the best shape handle i have ever used and i have handled a few big knives! start with that and a 8_9" blade slightly down swept but with a straight cutting edge flat grind secondry bevel (as you always do). cu in the gathering, we can have a chat then.