Boot Maintenance

[Raz]

I've done a silly thing :roll:

I did a days fieldwork on the seashore in my favoured lowa boots. Came home and kicked them off as always. A few days later, I put them on for some weekend hiking and they are orange! ****** rust!
What's the best way to get rid of it, and coat over with, to protect them from it again?

[Paganwolf]

Do you mean the metal lace rings?? it happened to me not as bad but it happened, i rubbed the rings down and painted them with matt black match pot paint, bad form really but apparently a common thing :?:

[hootchi]

You can cover them in vaseline. How about a cut in the leather from barbed wire it there a way to glue it back? I havent felt water through them yet but it is quite deep. They are good quality boots, meindle's so the leather is thick.

[Raz]

Match pot paint? Whats that then?
Is it abrassion resistant enough to not have to keep doing it?

Hootchi; you could try glueing them seam sealer (Mcnuts is best I belive).

[BIG-TARGET]

[leon-1]

Raz, I think PW was probably talking about the little pots of paint for model making.

There isn't a massive amount that you can do with this sort of problem, some of the wax based waterproofings leave a residue on eyelets/loops and this keeps them reasonably rust free.

Or as PW said paint them, same sort of thing, you can get lacquer in the small modelling pots and this should be reasonably hard wearing :-)

[Paganwolf]

Raz, I think PW was probably talking about the little pots of paint for model making.

There isn't a massive amount that you can do with this sort of problem, some of the wax based waterproofings leave a residue on eyelets/loops and this keeps them reasonably rust free.

Or as PW said paint them, same sort of thing, you can get lacquer in the small modelling pots and this should be reasonably hard wearing :-)

spot on Leon i was talking about the little pots of enamel model paints i used the Matt black did the trick :biggthump

[Gary]

Hammerrite paint might be better - but youd need to prime it first - or clean em and spray em with wd40 or similar and jut keep em protected and clean between uses.

[Edi_M]

Personally I'd dissuade anyone from using WD40 for anything other than a rust-remover/all-else-fails cleaner, and with the caveat that as soon as it's performed it's job, clean it off with soapy water & a small soft brush (an old toothbrush is ideal) & rinse it several times & finally coat it with grease or oil. The stuff (WD40) contains acid, & was designed for use on things which were only expected to last for a finite period of time. NASA don't use it on the shuttle, only on the disposable SRB units & the release mechanisms (which are destroyed on launch). It may be classed as a lubricant, but it isn't one. I know many folk who keep a can in the back of their landrovers. Anyone tries to use it on my Disco takes their life in their hands, they're prone enough already. I'll only use electronic-contact cleaner & oil or waxoyl.

As originally described by Raz, the root of the problem is in allowing the rot to set in in the first place - it doesn't take long & boots generally don't come with anti-corrosion warranties. Waxoyl, available from any good garage or even Halfords, is an excellent sealer for metals & will not affect the other materials especially. Alternatively, just be liberal when waxing the boots (we recommend nikwax on our own boots). Hammerite paint on boots is one I've never heard of, but once the rust on the metal has been fully removed I imagine it's a good mid-term solution in itself.

Long-term, though, if you're spending a lot of time with your feet in seawater or deep mud/silt I'd recommend a pair of wellies rather than hiking boots!

[EdS]

If they are gore-tex lined DO NOT wax them - it knackers the membrain.

If they are goretex lined just clean them off with water & a brush, leave tehm to dry and then use good quality shoe polish (kiwi parade gloss it just a coloured version of what most boot makers sell for goretex boots, even comes of the same Sara Lee production line).

The polish in not to keep them waterproof, they have a liner for that, but to feed the leather to keep it in good condition.

[mal]

people have said about humbrol model paints for the eyelets but i would use there mat varnish iv used it to seal all sorts of things in the past including cheep earing's for her in doors to stop them going green.

[bambodoggy]

Long-term, though, if you're spending a lot of time with your feet in seawater or deep mud/silt I'd recommend a pair of wellies rather than hiking boots!

I'd second that if you're spending lots of time in and around the sea.

Failing the above just wear your boots more often...the laces rubbing will keep the eyelets clean and rust/oxidation free or they always do for me

I use Nikwax on both my Lowa's and both pairs of my Danners..... I'd never heard that it messes up the gortex!!!!!

[Raz]

Old thread!

but my boots are cured now, I just 'sanded' away the rust by lots of rubbing, then waxed them.

However, talking about wax,
I used nikwax on my coat and boots and it made both of them soak up water like a sponge, same with my girlfriends scarpas.
I was amazed to say the least. now I use kiwi and it just beads up and runs off, as it should.
The legacy nikwax left has made the leather on my boots very very supple, to the point that support is almost compromised, I will never use nikwax again on anything!

[tenbears10]

That nikwax must have been duff Raz. I've used it for years and never had a problem. The best for leather boots is the old style wax not the new water based stuff with a brush. The only thing I've heard bad about nikwax is that prolounged use can rot the stiching but it's never happened to me.

Bill

[bambodoggy]

I have to say I'm with Tenbears on this.....I've used it for years without a problem....I use the old stuff from an overgrown polish type tin and apply it as it says with my fingers for warmth....I sometimes put my boots near our wood burning stove for a short while to let it fully soak in too....then next day I'll give them a quick going over with normal Kiwi black to keep the colour constant....
I've heard the stitch rotting rumour too but again...never happened to me.... :?:

As I said below I can't comment on the effect on Gortex but none of my boots leak ):

[Great Pebble]

Kiwi Parade Gloss, nuff said

[bushblade]

Old thread!

but my boots are cured now, I just 'sanded' away the rust by lots of rubbing, then waxed them.

However, talking about wax,
I used nikwax on my coat and boots and it made both of them soak up water like a sponge, same with my girlfriends scarpas.
I was amazed to say the least. now I use kiwi and it just beads up and runs off, as it should.
The legacy nikwax left has made the leather on my boots very very supple, to the point that support is almost compromised, I will never use nikwax again on anything!

Where did the rust come from? The eyelets on my Lowas are Aluminium, I've used them a fair bit in and around salt water and never had I problem.
I agree with bambodoggy and tenbears about the nikwax, Ive never had a problem either.
Nikwax from the tin does tend to sit on the surface of leather rather than soak in, Grangers leather conditioner or Nikwax aqueous wax is better.
I would not recomend kiwi products or regular shoe polish, this does nothing to nourish the leather, just sits on the surface, wears off quickly and impares the breathability of the leather.
Lowa make their own Active Cream which is very good. This would be my first choice, second would be Grangers and third would be Nikwax.

[JimH]

My chosen boot (AltBerg) is a hybrid motorbike/walking boot and has copper (or a very "red" brass) eyelets, rivets and suchlike so no such problems occur. Don't know about their normal walkers. I use AltBerg's own Leder Gris wax on them which seems identical to Nikwax, then kiwi them on top.

My last winter boots were Scarpa and lasted 17 years with no trouble on a continual diet of Nikwax. No thread-rotting or anything.

[tenbears10]

Having said the stuff about nikwax I would advise using the manufacturers own brand wax if they have one, I use hydrobloc on my zamberlans, and if not then nikwax (i've never used grangers so can't say on that).

[RobertsonPau]

Raz, was the nikwax you used in a tube? I've used nikwax from a tube and it does soften the leather, I use it on new boots to speed up breaking in but only two or three times at most. The nikwax in a tin is better for long term use.

The rumour about stitching being rotted is in connection to the old style Dubbing, it has an ingredient that can cause problems with some types of stitching.

Gore tex lined boots can be waxed, I've waxed mine. It doesn't affect the Gore tex membrane in terms or durability, but it does reduce the breathability because it blocks the tiny holes that Gore tex is made from. When the gore tex eventually starts to leak, they all do, waxing the boots extends their life, and you can treat them like any other boot.

I used to sell boots and outdoor gear and did loads of training with boot makers and also WL Gore, and this is what I was told by them.

Paul

[Great Pebble]

I've never had to replace boots because of damage to the leather....

[bushblade]

Just to point out, most manufacturers own brand proofing/treatment is usualy Nikwax or Grangers products repackaged and relabeled. Lowa use their own product, IIRC Hydrobloc and Scarpas HS12 are their own products too not grangers or Nikwax.
But I really strongly advise against Kiwi, there are far better products specificaly for use on outdoor breathable footwear, kiwi isn't one of them.

[Raz]

My Lowa eyelets are chrome plated something coppery looking, and they are well worn through so that’s why they rusted.

I used new direct from Nikwax (won it) TX-direct on the coat, and Aqueous on the boots. Neither worked and both have shortened long term performance. I tried a stupidly expensive bee’s wax a while ago and that worked well, so maybe I’ll move over to that if kiwi really is bad for them? Any data on that?

[bushblade]

My Lowa eyelets are chrome plated something coppery looking, and they are well worn through so that’s why they rusted.

I used new direct from Nikwax (won it) TX-direct on the coat, and Aqueous on the boots. Neither worked and both have shortened long term performance. I tried a stupidly expensive bee’s wax a while ago and that worked well, so maybe I’ll move over to that if kiwi really is bad for them? Any data on that?

That is very suprising about the Nikwax, Ive never heard of it causing any problems like that. I checked further into the Kiwi thing, no manufacturer we stock (Meindl, Berghaus, Brasher, Merrel, Zamberlan, Scarpa etc.) would not recomend using Kiwi products quite the opposite.
Try using Lowas own active cream, its available from Penrith survival. Failing that try Grangers leather conditioner.

[mal]

I think you have to be a bit careful of what company recommends what and what shop dose no disrespect but if they haven't got a deal with them they wont recommend them same as if they make there own or a sister company dose who you might not be aware is part of there group they will say its the best kiwi has been around for years if it wasn't good for leather it would not be

[bushblade]

I think you have to be a bit careful of what company recommends what and what shop dose no disrespect but if they haven't got a deal with them they wont recommend them same as if they make there own or a sister company dose who you might not be aware is part of there group they will say its the best kiwi has been around for years if it wasn't good for leather it would not be

These are not just manufacturers recomendations but us as staff too with a good deal of collective experience in such things gained both from each other and customer feedback. We are not sales staff so it makes no difference to us where the products are purchased, we don't recieve commision. We just give good advice based on our findings and experience of a vast aray of products. Kiwi is fine for regular fashion shoes, but for outdoors breathable footwear there really are better products available. And after spending £150 on a pair of boots it seems a great shame to give them anything less than what they deserve.

[mal]

point taken bushblade how long dose a tube of lowas stuff last how should i apply it and should i use anything on top of that as well to keep them black. and is danners stuff any good for my lowas

MAl

[bushblade]

point taken bushblade how long dose a tube of lowas stuff last how should i apply it and should i use anything on top of that as well to keep them black. and is danners stuff any good for my lowas

MAl

You get about the same as you do in a bottle of aqueus wax, but its more like a cream, so goes a bit further. It has a sponge aplicator so is easy to apply. I don't use anything to restore colour, the cream is clear and doesn't restore colour, but I don't find this necesary and the boots look black again after an application anyway. You could use black aqueus wax to restore colour if you decide it needs it. The 2 products should't affect each other, allthough saying that I'd only use one at a time.
I think danner boot dressing is a very good product, not sure it would be a good idea on lowas though as it tends to soften the leather a little.

[mal]

Cheers for that busnblade

[Great Pebble]

Ah well... I'm kinda in the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" camp.