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Thread: Lapin Puukko

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Default Lapin Puukko

    Being a newbie to bushcraft, I am looking at buying my first knife and was hoping you guys could give me your opinions.

    I have read lots and lots of threads about the frosts mora / clipper knives but frankly I am not too keen on a plastic / rubber handle and would prefer a traditional looking knife even if a bit more expensive.

    The knife I am considering is made by Lapin Puukko. I has a blade of 4 1/8", and is 8 1/2" long overall. Apparently it is a stainless steel blade which is about .121" thick and hardened to 59 on the Rockwell C scale and costs 40 euros. I cannot find anymore information than that so if anyone knows what kind of steel it is, etc all info would be very useful.



    Is this a good knife suitable for a newbie? Are there any other more traditional looking options you experts would recommend?

    Thanks,
    NC

  2. #2
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    Default

    If you can afford it get it

  3. #3

    Default

    I think it is a very valid choice. Two notes though:
    - you can find Moras with wooden handle too
    - such scandi knives are very good for general purpose and carving but you should probably not do too much batonning on them, full tang constructions would be stronger (but there might be little choice of good blades with full tang assembly at that price level)

    P.S. Brusletto has some cheap scandis I like too: http://www.attacc.com/acatalog/BRUSLETTO.html
    Last edited by Pierr; 25-09-2008 at 03:54.

  4. #4
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    Default

    The Puuko would be a good choice as would most traditional scandi knives, it comes down most to personal preference so trust your instincts.

    The Brusceleto link had some nice knives and this one looks a good deal, I like the combination of stainless practicality with traditional look.

    "Middle Ages design made to illustrate this period in history. Although a Middle Ages design, it was decided to fit a 9.5cm Sandvik unpolished stainless 12c-27 blade rather than an old style carbon blade, to give the period look. This allows in the field use as well as being a collectors piece. Handle is made from flamed birch. Overall length 20cm. A very useful knife with a lot of character making it ideal to use in the field. Leather Sheath.

    WAS 70.00


    Price: 32.50"


  5. #5
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    Default

    >>scandi knives are very good for general purpose and carving but you should probably not do too much batonning on them, full tang constructions would be stronger

    I've batoned my Frosts Mora (rat tailed tang) through sawn off telegraph poles without problem. It gets blunt, but won't break. I've seen plenty of you tube videos of people abusing Moras, but I've never seen a picture of a knife that broke where the tang meets the blade. The only, and I think _only_ consideration is that with a wooden handled rat tail the handle might work loose. Plastic Moras are almost indestructable.

    The knife in the OP looks good to me. Nice deep sheath and the Puukos have a reputation of sharpening up well.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Nice looking knife Nick and it'll go well with your Leupu.

    Only thing to think about is that having a stainless steel blade you may have a job stariking a spark off of a firesteel. A carbon steel blade won't have any problem.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mesquite View Post
    Nice looking knife Nick and it'll go well with your Leupu.

    Only thing to think about is that having a stainless steel blade you may have a job stariking a spark off of a firesteel. A carbon steel blade won't have any problem.
    Carbon or stainless, same thing when striking a spark from a firesteel (ferro rod).
    It is how sharp the spine ( or any other object) is that matters!

    By the way. The knife looks good and will probably work just fine.

    Tor

  8. #8
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    Default

    This looks like a nice knife go for it


    Quote Originally Posted by Pierr View Post
    - such scandi knives are very good for general purpose and carving but you should probably not do too much batonning on them, full tang constructions would be stronger (but there might be little choice of good blades with full tang assembly at that price level)
    This is rubbish as has already been said a chaep plastic handled knife (I have one and it is great) with a short tang does not break when battoning so why will this. I have made several stick tangs and battoned with them and they are OK.
    Mors Kochanski does not recomend a fulltang knife but a stick tang.
    Alf

    He who laughs last, thinks slowest

    Scoutmaster on BB Knives by me
    Scout out www.escouts.org.uk

  9. #9

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    I still think full tang is marginally stronger. I said "you should not do *too much* batoning", not that batoning with a mora is a no go. It is all a matter of how much, how tick the wood and how many knots in the wood.
    And I prefer to err on the cautious side, especially when potentially influencing someone else's purchase. i.e. what I would do with my knife I would not recommend to other because I don't want to be the cause of them wasting money by breaking their knife.

  10. #10
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brancho View Post
    This looks like a nice knife go for it




    This is rubbish as has already been said a chaep plastic handled knife (I have one and it is great) with a short tang does not break when battoning so why will this. I have made several stick tangs and battoned with them and they are OK.
    Mors Kochanski does not recomend a fulltang knife but a stick tang.
    It is possible to disagree with someone or offer an opposing view without describing that person's words as 'rubbish'.

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