Good point - the saw spines are very square!Originally Posted by Ogri the trog
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Good point - the saw spines are very square!Originally Posted by Ogri the trog
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Cheers,
Stew.
Is there any reason that a lot of people seem to like using the back of a knife to strike their firesteel?
I've found the best striker is the striker that comes with the steel itself....
It's OK - but it's not much good for anything else. If you've got a knife anyway...![]()
Dunc
Never assume that somebody else has got the map.
To be brutally honest, you should be able to shave wood fine enough for use as tinder. A good sharp edge on the striker is equally important though. A Fallkniven with its very sharp spine will throw sparks off a Firesteel at least 4 feet!
Knife: Bark River 'Highland Special' (A2)
Wood: Unseasoned Japanese Cherry
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Last edited by Simon E; 18-08-2006 at 08:28. Reason: Added a couple of pics
An excellent pictorial demonstration of the method.
Thanks for posting Simon E
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Ogri the trog
Improvise, Adapt & Overcome
www.Reddragonbushcraft.com
Originally Posted by Ogri the trog
But you can't see him shouting KAZAM!![]()
Yup, a good picture showing not only how to light a fire but also from the positioning of Simon's feet, you can slearly see how he intends to put the fire out using his own internal water supply![]()
Thanks guys, I did a couple of pics for a topic on another forum. I tried to describe it as a long stroke (OK, OK, simmer down back there) and a short stroke. You can see how a short stroke will concentrate the sparks in a very confined area and is especially useful when trying to ignite a somewhat less flammable tinder. The long stroke I find if best with finer, fibrous tinder like grass.
Long Stroke
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if you have a swiss multitool then you can use the saw edge back the hacksaw/file blade is good or even the tin opener works on the smaller ones - I tend to leave the lil metal striker on the steel I do however have three steels and they all have different strikers, the newer ones wearing more away funnily enough. you can also grind a flat spot on the back of a swiss blade if its a locking one and use that. using the blade edge makes a good spark but remember you are using metal on metal so it wont like it for long.Originally Posted by rich59
if you struggle to get a spark and want some help then alcohol swabs light with no effort and are easy to carry in you med kit - puncture repair glue goes first time and shoe polish can be pretty good if its fairly new. all of which can take a soaking and help light wet wood.
Last edited by crazydave; 26-08-2006 at 18:26.