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Thread: Help with FireSteel

  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ogri the trog
    Stew,
    My suggestion was to use the back of the saw blade of the SAK, not the knife blade. Though its a worthy idea for those who don't have a saw.

    ATB

    Ogri the trog
    Good point - the saw spines are very square!

  2. #32

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    Is there any reason that a lot of people seem to like using the back of a knife to strike their firesteel?

    I've found the best striker is the striker that comes with the steel itself....

  3. #33
    Join Date
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    It's OK - but it's not much good for anything else. If you've got a knife anyway...
    Dunc

    Never assume that somebody else has got the map.

  4. #34
    Join Date
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    To be brutally honest, you should be able to shave wood fine enough for use as tinder. A good sharp edge on the striker is equally important though. A Fallkniven with its very sharp spine will throw sparks off a Firesteel at least 4 feet!

    Knife: Bark River 'Highland Special' (A2)

    Wood: Unseasoned Japanese Cherry



    Last edited by Simon E; 18-08-2006 at 08:28. Reason: Added a couple of pics

  5. #35

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    An excellent pictorial demonstration of the method.

    Thanks for posting Simon E



    Ogri the trog
    Improvise, Adapt & Overcome
    www.Reddragonbushcraft.com

  6. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ogri the trog
    An excellent pictorial demonstration of the method.

    Thanks for posting Simon E



    Ogri the trog

    But you can't see him shouting KAZAM!

    Yup, a good picture showing not only how to light a fire but also from the positioning of Simon's feet, you can slearly see how he intends to put the fire out using his own internal water supply

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Thanks guys, I did a couple of pics for a topic on another forum. I tried to describe it as a long stroke (OK, OK, simmer down back there ) and a short stroke. You can see how a short stroke will concentrate the sparks in a very confined area and is especially useful when trying to ignite a somewhat less flammable tinder. The long stroke I find if best with finer, fibrous tinder like grass.

    Long Stroke


  8. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by rich59
    Continuing the theme of wizard sparks - I have a Swiss army knife as my chief tool. It occurs to me that many of you wizards are using the back of a fixed blade knife? Sharpenned? So can I get the big sparks with a SAK?

    JoeG
    Well done mate. Fire starting with a flame is a bit different than from a glowing coal - such as charcloth. Char cloth is an absolute doddle to light. The skill is in nurturing a glow all the way to flame. That is where my magical abilities are reputed to be. Have a look at http://www.bushcraftuk.com/community...ad.php?t=14445 where I reveal all.
    if you have a swiss multitool then you can use the saw edge back the hacksaw/file blade is good or even the tin opener works on the smaller ones - I tend to leave the lil metal striker on the steel I do however have three steels and they all have different strikers, the newer ones wearing more away funnily enough. you can also grind a flat spot on the back of a swiss blade if its a locking one and use that. using the blade edge makes a good spark but remember you are using metal on metal so it wont like it for long.

    if you struggle to get a spark and want some help then alcohol swabs light with no effort and are easy to carry in you med kit - puncture repair glue goes first time and shoe polish can be pretty good if its fairly new. all of which can take a soaking and help light wet wood.
    Last edited by crazydave; 26-08-2006 at 18:26.

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