woodlore knife/ puukko question...

[Martyn]

Hi guys, I read with interest your reviews of both Alan Woods woodlore knife and the puukko you tested. I was also interested to see you rated the puukko very highly. I shouldn't be surprised really, the Lap's have been using that design for 100's of years and have got it down.

I dont own a woodlore knife, but it intruiges me. It would seem that Ray (Mears) has basically taken a Puukko design, westernised the handle a little, made it full tang and riveted on handle slabs. Could I ask, is the blade geometry basically the same between the puukko and the woodlore? I mean the edge geometry? Is it this that makes both these knives good for general bushcraft?

As a hobbyist knifemaker, I'm intrigued, the possibility of making a puukko, but using full tang construction, and modern materials (usually found in more "tactical" orientated blades) is fascinating. Imagine a puukko using S30v steel, full tang, a more "western" handle geometry, with micarta, G10 or carbon fibre scales - A tactical pukko if you like - LOL. I would think such a blade could be made fairly cheaply. Interesting-no?

Thanks.
Martyn.

[Matt]

While we're vaguely on the subject of the kellam puuko - I'd be interested to hear if it is still living up to the rigours of bushcraft.

[Tony]

Gary's the man for that. YO GARY answer the question

[bushblade]

Hi, I bought the kellam puukko after Garys review, its not a bad knife. It does come with a small secondary bevel like Gary says so I reprofiled it to just the single flat bevel. I've put it through some heavy use this weekend and it is still shaving sharp, though it does have a couple of minor chips in it, nothing major.

I don't think a puukko type blade would be good in S30V or similar steel as like all knives of this design you sharpen the full flat of the bevel, you'd be grinding away forever with S30V, even harder trying to sharpen on a small stone in the field!

The thing that makes these type of knives good for Bushcraft is not that they have full flat bevels, the difference in cutting over a blade with a secondary bevel is the edge angle. Most puukko type blades have a very acute edge angle where as secondary bevel blades do not. If you were to re-profile a secondary bevel blade to the same sort of angle to single beveled blade, they would cut pretty much the same.

A lot of people say that a single bevel blade is easier to sharpen because you keep the full flat of the bevel against the stone, which in turn keeps a constant angle during sharpening. However I would say that if you are confident in sharpening and keeping a consistent angle, then the secondary bevel blade is easier to sharpen as you are simply having to remove less metal from the edge.

A single bevel blade does have the advantage in tasks such as shaving feather sticks because you can hold the bevel almost flat against the wood, just tipping the edge slightly into the wood, giving more control over the cut.

Will

[Gary]

In a word - yes.

I just spent a week in the Tabernase Desert practicing a few skills there and it was more than adequate - certainly not an enviroment to take your expensive tools.

Also I might add I also took the smaller Gransfor axe - the wild life hatchet - excellent in that enviroment.

And as a foot note - I found a knife shop in Granada's old town which sold million's of knives, and the guess what? The only none spanish knife they stocked and recomended was the Puukko.

[Ed]

Check out www.jls-wednesbury.com (UK company based in the midlands). They have a good range of Isakki and helle knives. Not everything is on the website, so go to the contact page and get them to send you a catalogue, mine turned up yesterday in less than 24 hours.... and guess what..... the Isakki 5226 puukko which was reviewed by Gary is on the clearance and discounted items page (sent with the catalogue) priced £11 + £2.50 p&p. :-D
Best bargin I've come accross this week
:wink:
Ed

[Gary]

Even if you ONLY got the stainless steel one as a back up - or spare you'd be on to a winner at that price.

Although beware - mine is now officialy the new kitchen utility knife used for carving, butchering and all those other little task!

Any chance of using it in the great outdoors has long since gone!!

[sargey]

Imagine a puukko using S30v steel, full tang, a more "western" handle geometry, with micarta, G10 or carbon fibre scales - A tactical pukko if you like - LOL

i have such a beast on order from a custom maker stateside, 4 inches long and 5/32 inches thick, brown? (can't remember actually) G10 scales, slightly exposing the pommel a ala fallkniven, and a kydex sheath. 8-) more of a woodlore than a puukko i should say. the "practical tactical" was what i had in mind. as well as having a knife i wouldn't have to baby too much, i can be hard on my tools sometimes.

one thing i have noticed on scandanavian style knife grinds, is that the grind seems to get a little steeper nearer the tip, as if to reinforce the point a bit?

cheers, and.

[MartiniDave]

Hi Sargey,

I've noticed that too on scandi blades, I'd assumed it was probably a result of the manufacturing process and grinding wheel geometry.
I could be wrong though (and probably am :-D )

Dave

[The General]

I find it interesting that anyone not in the kitchen would possibly find a preference for a chisel ground edge. Sure I can understand the ease of sharpening argument and for a fighting type knife the edge is the edge right? But I have always found a standard ground edge much easier to work with both sharpening and especially for utility/cutting chores.

This is not a critical post, but just me trying to see if I have missed something in 15 years of using quality blades. :-?