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View Poll Results: What is the best grind for a bushcraft knife?

Voters
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  • Scandy

    324 58.80%
  • Full Flat

    89 16.15%
  • Convex

    122 22.14%
  • Hollow Ground

    16 2.90%
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Thread: Whats the best grind for your ideal bushcraft knife?

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Littleton, CO USA
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    142

    Default

    You have superb taste Hoodoo!

    I just received my first Hankala this past Saturday looking identical to the Tuhkuri which you posted. An amazing knife. I find it difficult to imagine any others which could be better made or be so appropriate for so many uses! I believe scandis to be the ultimate in design and function. And thanks for the shots of Pekka's work, amazing knives!

    NJ

  2. #92
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    Nov 2003
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    Michigan, USA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Native Justice View Post
    You have superb taste Hoodoo!

    I just received my first Hankala this past Saturday looking identical to the Tuhkuri which you posted. An amazing knife. I find it difficult to imagine any others which could be better made or be so appropriate for so many uses! I believe scandis to be the ultimate in design and function. And thanks for the shots of Pekka's work, amazing knives!

    NJ
    I've never felt guilty recommending Jukka's knives. Just superb work. Glad you like yours.
    Hoodoo

    . . . deliverance will not come from the rushing, noisy centres of civilization. It will come from the lonely places. - Fridtjof Nansen

  3. #93
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    Nov 2004
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    the Sundaland paleotropics & W. Australia
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    Default

    Oh those leukus are so appealing.

    I wonder how a larger 10" leuku would do as a jungle knife? I am beginning to think quite well.

    As half Finn I think I am obliged to try them out.

    Who makes traditional inexpensive leukus which are meant as work knives and who accepts and delivers overseas orders?

    I am looking for a plain wooden handle that can handle heat and high humidity.

    BTW, I voted scandi for the small knife and convex for big blades
    "An eye for an eye only makes the whole world blind" M. K. Gandhi

  4. #94
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    Nov 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by BOD View Post
    Oh those leukus are so appealing.

    I wonder how a larger 10" leuku would do as a jungle knife? I am beginning to think quite well.

    As half Finn I think I am obliged to try them out.

    Who makes traditional inexpensive leukus which are meant as work knives and who accepts and delivers overseas orders?

    I am looking for a plain wooden handle that can handle heat and high humidity.

    BTW, I voted scandi for the small knife and convex for big blades
    Well, the 9" Strömeng leuku might be a viable candidate for you.

    Last edited by Hoodoo; 06-05-2010 at 00:29.
    Hoodoo

    . . . deliverance will not come from the rushing, noisy centres of civilization. It will come from the lonely places. - Fridtjof Nansen

  5. #95
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    Nov 2004
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    the Sundaland paleotropics & W. Australia
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    Thanks Hoodoo,

    That looks about right. Found their website on the net.

    Now to import it.

    The irony is that, in this land where a 9" leuku is a small blade and where people in rural areas walk into town wearing 16-24" blades, you need an import permit for a knife!!
    "An eye for an eye only makes the whole world blind" M. K. Gandhi

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Pembrokeshire
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    13,501

    Default

    I can vouch for the Samikniv!
    Mind you I have had it glance off some gren hazel when I got the angle of swipe wrong...por technique is amplified by the bigger blade!
    Love makes the World go round......Lust makes it all go pear-shaped...

  7. #97

    Default

    I voted convex Since I got my first Bark river I love the convex edge.
    Deep in the hart of Texas. Where Men are Men
    and the Women are glad of it

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Birmingham
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    Default

    Scandi for me.

    I've got a couple of scandi and convex. I like both but If I had to pick between the two I wouldn't hesitate in picking a scandi one. I've found they split wood better too.

    You can get a convex amazingly sharp but I just think scandi is better and easy to sharpen in the field.

    Scandi grind, Japanese waterstones, a strop with some Aluminaoxide on it makes for a edge any phone book or yellow pages should be sceared of.

    My current knife of choice, an Enzo Trapper, strong sharp and very nice in the hand.





    You can't really tell in those photos, but after about an hour on a 6000 stone its starting to get a mirror edge which I'm after. I've started a fire before off a knife that had a mirror edge (using the sun and a bit of newspaper in the garden).

    Its also the sharpest I've ever got a knife, glides through 8 sheets of paper like its not there.

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Wychwood Forest, New England, Australia.
    Posts
    103

    Default The Whetstone.

    I only ever use carbon steel blades, and have no trouble sharpening them on any stone. At home I use a big stone, but in the woods I carry an 18th century style which is small and light, weighs just 100grms.




    Last edited by Le Loup; 25-06-2009 at 03:26. Reason: pics.
    Two roads diverged in a wood, and I took the one less travelled by,
    and that has made all the difference.
    Robert Frost.



  10. #100

    Default

    Both convex and scandi!

    I"m a Bark River fan, and I have convexed my SAKs also; a few quick swipes on the hone and they are shaving sharp.....I just got my first scandi (a Wood Jewell) and I also like that edge. I don't see much difference in ease of sharpening between the two types...anything but a useless v-grind!

  11. #101
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Wychwood Forest, New England, Australia.
    Posts
    103

    Default Knives.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hoodoo View Post
    Well, the 9" Strömeng leuku might be a viable candidate for you.

    Is this blade carbon steel?
    Le Loup.
    Two roads diverged in a wood, and I took the one less travelled by,
    and that has made all the difference.
    Robert Frost.



  12. #102

    Default

    Hey Hoodoo! Any chance of pm'ing me with Pekkas email address please?
    That would be great.
    Thanks.
    Chris.

  13. #103
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Michigan, USA
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    5,144

    Default

    PM sent.

    This is what I found.

    puukkopekka@luukku.com
    Hoodoo

    . . . deliverance will not come from the rushing, noisy centres of civilization. It will come from the lonely places. - Fridtjof Nansen

  14. #104

    Default

    Thanks alot!
    My best.
    Chris.

  15. #105

    Default

    As this post still seems open. Got to go with convex for so many reasons, including having had spent two days in the woods with Dave Budd learning to sharpen my scalpels, Victorian paring knives and bushy blades.

    So for me sabre, convex with slight secondary and sharpen it in the field on wet and dry.

    Sandsnakes
    primum non nocere "first do no harm"

  16. #106

    Default

    Being a cheapskate and incredibly lazy the grind on my tools follows the profile of whichever power wetstone I'm using.

    On the boat I live on, thats a bench grinder type wetstone and in the workshop its an old horizontal 'record player deck' type wetstone. Hollowground and flat ground respectivelly.

    Then to be REALLY lazy I finish off with a homemade slow speed power strop dressed with jewelers rouge or even toothpaste if I'm really skint.
    Last edited by NikDarkwood; 04-10-2009 at 18:30.

  17. #107

    Default

    hi for me is more important blade thickness.
    1.5 to 2mm with full conxex like OPINEL uses=goos slicer anc cutter ;-)

  18. #108
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Cranborne Chase Dorset
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    Default

    might have found a new one that has a lot of promise

    a FLandi grind which is a Full flat but left thick enough to still have a Scandi secondary trying out on my newblade the scandi bit is 25degree at a thickness of 2mm then tapered up to the spine

    you could also convex the secondary bit

    or as ive seen Convex one side flat grind the other (makes it handed tho )


    choices choices

    ATB

    Duncan

  19. #109

    Default

    Isn't the Flandi what Dave uses already Duncan? A sort of exagerated secondary!?
    My best.
    Chris.

  20. #110
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    Feb 2004
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    Cranborne Chase Dorset
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris the Cat View Post
    Isn't the Flandi what Dave uses already Duncan? A sort of exagerated secondary!?
    My best.
    Chris.

    possible but i doubt its as high a 3-4mm and as acute as 25deg
    i havent seen any of his grinds like that

    but as i said in the thread its an idea ive come up with BUT its probably been done before (most things have in the knife world)

    I woudl like to forge one tho

    ATB

    Duncan

  21. #111

    Default

    Get on with it fella!
    ( I would like to see that aswell! )
    Cheers.
    C da C.

  22. #112
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    Feb 2004
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    Cranborne Chase Dorset
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris the Cat View Post
    Get on with it fella!
    ( I would like to see that aswell! )
    Cheers.
    C da C.
    its 20yrs since i wacked Hot metal at college

    Might do it as a Stick tang to but the shock might kill Dave

    ATB

    Duncan

  23. #113

    Talking

    Lol!!.....

  24. #114

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FGYT View Post
    its 20yrs since i wacked Hot metal at college

    Might do it as a Stick tang to but the shock might kill Dave

    ATB

    Duncan


    Go on then Duncan, show me what you're made of You know I like it when you guys make proper knives instead of those kiddies projects

    As for me making a 'flandi grind' blade, you are both right. When I started to make forged blades I forged cloes to an edge then went straight into the sharpening and ended up with an edge of about 4mm at 20d on either side. These days my forging is better so I get closer to an edge before putting it to the grinder, so at 20d each side my bevels are normally about 2mm (between 1 and three depending on the nature of the blade). So I guess if I put a much lower angle on it then it would come out close to 4mm.

    not quite as shiny as yours though
    Don't just tickle it!
    dave budd handmade toolsTools, knives, blacksmithing 2013 courses now online!

  25. #115

    Default

    Sharpest knives I own Dave,I know that much!!
    C da C.

  26. #116
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Wychwood Forest, New England, Australia.
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    103

    Default

    I have to admit, that although I have been using knives for over 50 years, this stuff is going right over my head. Hence my earlier replies which were obviously not what anyone was looking for. Well here is another one I guess. I sharpen my blades at the same angle all the time, because that is the angle that my hand always holds the blade at on the stone.
    I use whatever stone is available, and have been known to use stones out of the creek.
    Last edited by Le Loup; 21-02-2010 at 21:18. Reason: spelling
    Two roads diverged in a wood, and I took the one less travelled by,
    and that has made all the difference.
    Robert Frost.



  27. #117

    Default

    This is the sort of thread I joined BCUK for.
    I'm learning 'stuff', thanks to all who posted,
    I would vote scandy and convex!

    PREPER.............
    "Do not mess with the forces of Nature, for thou art small and biodegradable!"

  28. #118
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    R.C.T. South Wales
    Posts
    61

    Default

    Used only a couple of Scandi's for quick tent pegs so not really qualified to form a proper opinion. I just love my flat grind Spyderco Sage to bits so voted flat

  29. Default ceramic sharpener

    I'd go with spyderco ceramic in a flat hide case
    I've never known anything better and I've tried all oilstones, diamond sharpeners and sticks

    a bit of oil and it will sharpen your knife lovely
    it also depends on the hardness of the steel blade
    titanium or ceramic edged knives are disappointing an with never get a razor edge

    one trick I did learn that improves a knife edge immeasurably is to fill the microscopic blade edge grooves with leather particles from a strop hence why I mentioned the hyde case of the sharpener. it turns an already sharp edge into a mirror finish scalpel edge

  30. #120
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    NorthWest England
    Posts
    322

    Default

    I voted scandy... purely because of easy of sharpening.
    However, my next knife will be coming with a micro bevel. I'm not sure about the merits of this or how easy it will be to maintain it. I guess I'm about to find out. I'm curious to see if there is any discernible difference in cutting ability or edge retention.

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