Whats the best grind for your ideal bushcraft knife?

[British Red]

As the question says really - just trying to gauge opinion on the best grind for the ideal all round bushcraft knife!

[leon-1]

I voted scandi, but I actually prefer the grind to be deeper like the Grohmann.

[Hoodoo]

I'm perfectly happy with a scandi, flat or convex grind, assuming the blade is relatively thin enough to do more than carve wood. A flat grind with a Moran edge is just dandy as far as I'm concerned. In a scandi, I generally like a high grind on the bevel for 5/32" or thicker stock, and I can live with a smaller bevel on 1/8" stock or less. Also, I generally prefer 1/8" stock or less for the full convex. The hollow grind I pick as my favorite for a hunting knife, especially when it's ground on a large wheel.

So...I have no grind preferences, just geometry preferences.

[Snufkin]

I'm perfectly happy with a scandi, flat or convex grind, assuming the blade is relatively thin enough to do more than carve wood. A flat grind with a Moran edge is just dandy as far as I'm concerned. In a scandi, I generally like a high grind on the bevel for 5/32" or thicker stock, and I can live with a smaller bevel on 1/8" stock or less. Also, I generally prefer 1/8" stock or less for the full convex. The hollow grind I pick as my favorite for a hunting knife, especially when it's ground on a large wheel.

So...I have no grind preferences, just geometry preferences.

I voted convex, as if I were only allowed one knife that would be it. But I like a scandi grind too. And I'm ordering a flat ground Otter with a secondary bevel from Shing to see how I fare with that. So to be fair my answer would really be whatever takes my fancy at the time (I'm so fickle ).

[happy camper]

I voted scandi.
Good for woodwork and so good for many bushcraft tasks, strong and easy to sharpen.
I really like convex aswell but fallkniven already do that very well with the f1.
I reckon there's a lack of anything with a scandi grind that i would consider on par with the f1 for quality and cost, something that falls somewhere between the mora (which many learn to sharpen on) and the custom bushcraft knives (which are many peoples ideal, and often seem to have the scandi grind)

[tarmix101]

I voted flat. As w/ Hoodoo I would be happy w/ a flat grind and a Moran edge on it.

To be perfectly honest, I wouldn't be apposed to any of the three. I own and use a Eriksson Mora, Fallkniven F1, and a Grohmann #1 flat grind. I am happy w/ all three (grinds) and I just slightly prefer the flat grind to the others, but not for all tasks I dunno.... this is confusing

[Ted Voorde]

Hi, I'm new here, but am a frequent poster on the Spyderco.com forum where the discussion was started on a Spyderco bush-craft knives.

About grinds, I used my Fallkniven F1 for some really hard batonning through pretty hard wood (2.5") to split it up to make fire on my last trip to Scotland. The edge is still pretty OK to my amazement. I wonder if that's due to the convex grind, where in batonning the edge is only shortly in touch with the wood (only when you start).
With a flat-ground or single-scandi grind, I guess the edge would be under more pressure? And, I wonder when splitting wood, if the single-bevel-scandi grind would push the blade in one direction and make it difficult to split it in half? ( I don't have a single-bevel-scandi grind knife).
I tried to illustrate it with the following picture. Any comments on that?
Thanks,
Ted



The actual fire:

[Stuart]

Hello Ted

I think you may have misunderstood the type of grid we are refering to when we say "single-bevel-scandi grind"

the image below (copied from martyns post) should help make things clearer, the grind on the far right is a "single-bevel-scandi grind":



a quote from Martyn explained his illustration:

A = Concave or hollow grind. Created by grinding on a wheel, different diameter wheels produce differend severities of grind. The smaller the wheel, the deeper the hollow grind. A really big wheel, produces a hollow grind that is *almost* flat. Usually has a small secondary edge bevel, but not always.

B = Full Flat grind. Created by grinding off a flat steel or ceramic platen. The grind goes fully from the spine of the knife, almost to the edge, where it it almost always has a secondary edge bevel (no edge bevel would require sharpeing the entire flat surface of the knife - I've never seen a full flat grind without a secondary edge bevel).

C = Convex grind. Usually created by grinding the steel on a "slack belt". This means no platen, so to some extent the grinding belt deforms to the steel, producing a convex edge (*the same principle as a hoodoo hone). The true full convex grind, doesnt usually have a secondary edge bevel - a grannyB for example.

D = Scandi Grind. Many methods to create this style, but typically, the edge bevels only go 1/3 way up the side of the knife. This creates a very acute or "fat" bevel, which usually does not have a secondary edge bevel. Note the difference in "angle of attack" between this and the full flat grind.
All of these different blade geometries (or combinations of them) produce knives with different charicteristics.

[Ted Voorde]

Hello Ted

I think you may have misunderstood the type of grid we are refering to when we say "single-bevel-scandi grind"

the image below (copied from martyns post) should help make things clearer, the grind on the far right is a "single-bevel-scandi grind":

<snip>

a quote from Martyn explained his illustration:

Hi Stuart. OK - I've seen that picture before but that clears things up if that is what is beinig referred to here as a scandi grind. I thought a lot of Puuko's were only ground on one side (the right side) like Japanese kitchen knives. My EKA camp-knife is ground on only one side (but has a secondary bevel).

So, say a blade is 24mm high, 4mm wide and a 1/3 bevel would result in a +/- 30 degree inclusive edge?

[Martyn]

Hi Stuart. OK - I've seen that picture before but that clears things up if that is what is beinig referred to here as a scandi grind. I thought a lot of Puuko's were only ground on one side (the right side) like Japanese kitchen knives. My EKA camp-knife is ground on only one side (but has a secondary bevel).

I'd call that a chisel grind. I think some Scandinavian knives are ground this way, but most I've seen are symmetrical with a bevel on each side. By "single bevel" we we dont mean it only has a bevel on one side of the knife, but that it doesnt have a tiny secondary edge bevel.

So, say a blade is 24mm high, 4mm wide and a 1/3 bevel would result in a +/- 30 degree inclusive edge?

I'll let someone else check your maths, it's not my strong point.

[Rhodri]

So, say a blade is 24mm high, 4mm wide and a 1/3 bevel would result in a +/- 30 degree inclusive edge?

Hi Ted, it would be 28.95502 degrees. To be precise...

[addyb]

heheheh thank you, Spock!

[Yonderer]

I've always owned and used either convex or flat grind knives (except for a couple of Moras) but after receiving my first handmade Scandy grind a month ago, I believe I prefer it for general camp duty.
The only thing left is to try it out as a skinner.
Scandinavian grinds don't seem to be as popular here in North America as they are in the UK and Europe.

[sheepdogbob]

Well done - informative thread - everybody give themselves a pat on the back!
My vote?
1) Machete & similar: Scandi @ 50deg.
2) Small (sheath) knife: Full flat grind @ 30deg.
3) Pocket (folding) knife: ------"------ @ 25deg.
I like to carry a small flat stone for the knives, and an axe stone for the larger gear, as required.

[benp1]

i guess i don't know what i prefer as i've only recently picked up a scandi fixed blade (apart from my mora)

i have a convex, flat and hollow ground knives. I use a convex blade normally and absolutely love it. Can't really see myself changing for the next little while

[mariobab]

If it was only one blade it would be convex(for strength and durability),but I always have 3 on me;machete or hatchet-convex,6" fixed-sabre ,and folder full flat.

[fred gordon]

Pardon my ignorance but very few people voted for the concave grind. What are its disadvantages?

[forginhill]

What was said in the previous post. It lacks strength. The convex edge has much more steel behind it to give it strength. Also, after a lot of sharpening, the concave (or hollow ground) needs to be reground. The convex can be sharpened continually.

Todd

[Lord Farquhar]

I would go for a flat grind but with a convexed edge, I like convexed edges as they are stronger that flats and are easy to sharpen.

[Graham_S]

I use a Svord Drop Point.
thin blade (2-3mm) with a convex edge.
I can maintain the edge on my belt.
the thin blade isn't brilliant for splitting but it's quite deep so a twist/wedge/baton technique works quite well.

[seved]

When i hunt i like a fullflat knife with a little convex secondary edge i have tryed it with my knife in 2140(O1) and i have chopped ribs with it and it is still sharp so i am happy with it. Its big, its 7,5mm thick and ca 220 mm long width is 40mm and it is a fulltang.. I have a smaller to, a sticktang fullflat with convex secondary edge in aeb-l its nice to. But a fullconvex blade is very nice to i think.

Seved

[w00dsmoke]

For many years I used knives and was really quite ignorant about them for as long as they kept sharp they did me fine in my work and to a certain degree they were disposable.

I don't use knives in my profession but I use them in my hobbies/lifestyle out of work. To be fair I've only recently (in the last few years) moved away from hunting style knives like Buck and Puma and used as a workhorse the cheap but fantastic MORA's however great these knives are for mutitasking, I won a BUCK vanguard hollowground
http://www.coltelleriacollini.it/int...all90/0282.jpg

on a BCUK charity auction and it's the most beautiful knife I've ever used. For around camp it's the easiest to keep sharp ( a quick strop), it's balanced, it cuts better than anything I've ever used before. So for me it's the perfect edge over any knife I've owned. Despite the disadvantages of a hollow ground, it does the job better for me, if I need something stronger I'll use a different tool like a saw or billhook.

[maddave]

I originally liked scandi but find convex a lot easier to use and sharpen. So much so that I use my GB mini more than a knife on camp because it does a great job and is easy to fettle in the field

[bushwacker bob]

It still puzzles me why most UK bushcrafters go from a 2mm Mora to a bushcrafter that is 4 or 5mm thick.
I have used a mora and its thick enough for all camp chores,I have never heard of anyone snapping a blade, so why have a great chunk of steel that is absolutely crap for food prep?
My bushcrafter is about 3mm thick and that is still a bit thick for slicing and dicing.

[Hoodoo]

It still puzzles me why most UK bushcrafters go from a 2mm Mora to a bushcrafter that is 4 or 5mm thick.
I have used a mora and its thick enough for all camp chores,I have never heard of anyone snapping a blade, so why have a great chunk of steel that is absolutely crap for food prep?
My bushcrafter is about 3mm thick and that is still a bit thick for slicing and dicing.

'Tis a puzzle. I used to think it was because the thicker blade makes a better "splitter" but it's a rare day I go afield without a small hatchet. With a baton, it does a pretty good job of splitting. If I need to pry, I'll carve a stick.

I've not found much use for a blade over 1/8" thick and my preference is for 3/32". If the blades are wide, I can live with thicker stock if it's a full flat or convex grind and zero edge. Not my first choice though because it just adds weight.

[bushwacker bob]

'Tis a puzzle. I used to think it was because the thicker blade makes a better "splitter" but it's a rare day I go afield without a small hatchet. With a baton, it does a pretty good job of splitting. If I need to pry, I'll carve a stick.

I've not found much use for a blade over 1/8" thick and my preference is for 3/32". If the blades are wide, I can live with thicker stock if it's a full flat or convex grind and zero edge. Not my first choice though because it just adds weight.

Even without a hatchet I can still split wood with a Mora, you just have to choose what bits of wood you can split. I dont try to baton anything wider than the knife.
But what do we know. Maybe we just haven't had the same experience eh, Hoodoo.

[Hoodoo]

Even without a hatchet I can still split wood with a Mora, you just have to choose what bits of wood you can split. I dont try to baton anything wider than the knife.
But what do we know. Maybe we just haven't had the same experience eh, Hoodoo.

I remember many years ago when the Woodlore was just starting to sell, they were very pricey even then and hard to get so a bunch of us on a forum got together and came up with a similar knife. At the time I remember I had to battle a bit to get an 1/8" blade. People were arguing that we weren't being "true" to the Woodlore design. Fortunately we ended up having thickness as an option. I have 3 of those knives now, one in 5/32" and two in 1/8". The 5/32" has a very high scandi grind so it works well but I prefer the 1/8" blades and they also have a fairly high scandi grind. I see 1/8" as being plenty stout and 3/32" an ideal blend of strength and cutting efficiency. Grind can make a difference though.

This the the 5/32" model compared to a WS Woodlore and Helle.



This is one of the 1/8" models. Still has a higher grind than a Woodlore. This knife will eat wood and it's perfect for splitting long branches lengthwise for making bushcraft tools.



And speaking of high grind, the grind on this puukko is wicked.

[TheGreenMan]

I’ve refrained from posting on this thread, mainly because I don’t do any bushcraft, and in some sense that would make me in the eyes of some forum members, a fraud. But, the sight of that puukko blade has made me obliged to comment that, that blade, is, by far, my favourite to date and close to sublime.

Replace the cork (?) handle with another material, and that would be close to perfect for my general needs. The 3/32” and 1/8” Woodlore variants are a close second (knowledge of steel composition and heat treatment, not withstanding)

The very best of regards,
Paul.

[bushwacker bob]

The grind on my bushcraft knife is close to that on the OSF knife (Nick Wheeler?)
It and a mora are the only scandi grind knifes I own. I think we're both singing from the same Hymn sheet on this one. The only other fixed blade that get a lot of use is my BRKT OMF knife which is theoretically convex ground,but is closer to a full flat grind with a convex edge and despite it diminutive size tackles pretty much everything.If it had a 3-4" blade and full size handle,I'd consider it just about perfect.
I have to agree with the Greenman about your Tuominen scandi,the blade on that looks spot on.It would be just at home in the kitchen as in the woods, which is precisely what a 'bushcraft' knife should be.(IMO)

[Hoodoo]

The grind on my bushcraft knife is close to that on the OSF knife (Nick Wheeler?)
It and a mora are the only scandi grind knifes I own. I think we're both singing from the same Hymn sheet on this one. The only other fixed blade that get a lot of use is my BRKT OMF knife which is theoretically convex ground,but is closer to a full flat grind with a convex edge and despite it diminutive size tackles pretty much everything.If it had a 3-4" blade and full size handle,I'd consider it just about perfect.
I have to agree with the Greenman about your Tuominen scandi,the blade on that looks spot on.It would be just at home in the kitchen as in the woods, which is precisely what a 'bushcraft' knife should be.(IMO)

I'm hearin' ya!