http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/ en Sat, 18 May 2013 14:58:58 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/images/misc/rss.png http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/ http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107667&goto=newpost Thu, 16 May 2013 19:10:55 GMT now gang over the last few months i have become a student of fire and the basics of fire lighting now what do i mean? well as some of you will no there are many types of fire and many ways of lighting them but over the last few months i have been concentrating on getting away from... now gang over the last few months i have become a student of fire and the basics of fire lighting

now what do i mean?

well as some of you will no there are many types of fire and many ways of lighting them

but over the last few months i have been concentrating on getting away from lighting fires using hexi and a lighter and using different types of fires and so far

i have learnt how to

use tender paper and strike rod and knife
how to build and light a
a square fire
a T-pee fire
a upside down fire
a long log fire

and finally when i get out next with a chance to have a serious play with fire i will be teaching my self how to build a star fire

then i will move on to the bow drill and the hand drill Now i planned to learn the bow drill at the moot this summer but i cant due to work putting payed to that but my journey in to fire learning is growing and going at quite a nice pace now

so well happy

drew ]]> Firecraft drewdunnrespect http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107667 http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107648&goto=newpost Thu, 16 May 2013 10:38:49 GMT 16 steps to light a fire for all you bushcrafters out there 1. Split dead limb into fragments and shave one fragment into slivers. 2. Bandage left thumb. 3. Chop other fragments into smaller fragments. 4. Bandage left foot. 5. Make structure of slivers (include those embedded in hand.)... 16 steps to light a fire for all you bushcrafters out there

1. Split dead limb into fragments and shave one fragment into slivers.
2. Bandage left thumb.
3. Chop other fragments into smaller fragments.
4. Bandage left foot.
5. Make structure of slivers (include those embedded in hand.)
6. Light Match
7. Light Match
8. Repeat "a bushcrafter is cheerful" and light match.
9. Apply match to slivers, add wood fragments, and blow gently into base of fire.
10. Apply burn ointment to nose.
11. When fire is burning, collect more wood.
12. Upon discovering that fire has gone out while out searching for more wood, soak wood from can labeled "petrol."
13. Treat face and arms for second-degree burns.
14. Re-label can to read "danger do not pour on naked flames."
15. When fire is burning well, add all remaining firewood.
16. When thunder storm has passed, repeat steps 1 - 15

Si :) ]]> Firecraft Big Si http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107648 http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107628&goto=newpost Wed, 15 May 2013 20:48:37 GMT Last week i was in the Ardennen ,made a bowdrill kit with pine wood that i found there http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KijUMc2xllg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KijUMc2xllg Last week i was in the Ardennen ,made a bowdrill kit with pine wood that i found there



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KijUMc2xllg ]]> Firecraft creepers http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107628 http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107434&goto=newpost Sat, 11 May 2013 15:24:22 GMT I made a fire piston out of a piece of fatwood, found at the last bushcraftmeeting here in Holland. As fatwood is saturated with resin it is airtight, unlike most other woods, so it is fit for making a fire piston ;) The fatwood stick was cut in 3; one piece for the bore, one smaller piece as... I made a fire piston out of a piece of fatwood, found at the last bushcraftmeeting here in Holland.
As fatwood is saturated with resin it is airtight, unlike most other woods, so it is fit for making a fire piston ;)
The fatwood stick was cut in 3; one piece for the bore, one smaller piece as handheld for the piston (with a shallow borehole for the piston), and the last piece for making the rounded piston stick with some help of my Mora knife and sandpaper/electronic drill.
The bore was made with a column drill.
The rounded piston stick was glued in to the handheld piece after which a shallow tinder cavity was drilled.
To make an airtight seal I used some lime tree inner bark (just picked up as it was from a decaying stick lying in the street here in Amsterdam). I wetted the inner bark and wound it tight around the piston end (= without turning it to cordage first). By forcing this with a 'screwing' motion into the borehole the bark was kneaded into an airtight seal. I used olive oil for lubrication and some chaga (Inonotus obliquus, found at the site of the Dutch bushcraftmeeting as well) as tinder to make the first coal.















Total length circa 8.5 cm (just smaller than the firecrest in the background), bore 4.3 cm deep & 8.5 mm wide.

Cheers,

Tom ]]> Firecraft Galemys http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107434 http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107335&goto=newpost Thu, 09 May 2013 11:31:10 GMT My new knife arrived today, and in the process of waiting for the heavy rain to clear away I lost patience and decided to use the shed to try and get a fire started (Don't worry, I had a fire extinguisher ready!) using Maya Dust and a striker .... I did it :)

If only I can perfect it the next time I am out with Greg, else It's going to be an "I told you so" moment! ]]> Firecraft NateJ http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107335 http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107216&goto=newpost Mon, 06 May 2013 16:58:31 GMT It's no secret I've had varied success with the bow drill fire lighting method. I have had some good results with prepared sets, but lots of trouble with strings. Then, at one of the Sussex group meets, we went for a set foraged on the day.

Well that didn't quite work out either. So on to another meet and this time, still using the hearth from the foraged and a home foraged hazel drill, I got an ember, which sadly I failed to blow to flame.

Now forward fast to the bank holiday. I've worked out what tension I need on the string. The hearth is proven, but not seasoned yet and I'd cut a new drill from a piece of green ash at home.



Now, time to get bowing. In the past this has involved a lot of exhausting bowing, often resulting in the ember being extinguished by sweat. But today was a break through day. In next to no time I had smoke a plenty. I thought this can't be true, but yes, I had an ember. I was so not expecting that, that I didn't even have my camera ready. After a short sprint round the house I found it and got this



sadly I was even less prepared and didn't have any tinder. After another sprint round, I found something, but sadly no flame. No problem, I'll get another in a couple of minutes I thought. Well I never expected that to be an over estimate! A quick retention on the string (I am learning), and a few good strokes, another ember. Tinder bundle ready, a little bit of blowing and I had this.



oh, and a very big grin on my face. ]]> Firecraft jackcbr http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107216 http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106925&goto=newpost Mon, 29 Apr 2013 05:35:57 GMT Does anyone have any tips for stopping camp fires on peaty woodland spreading please. A few years ago round this way there was a big fire in the woods and the cause according to the fire brigade was that the fire was not properly put out or the fire spread underground in the peat. (People... Does anyone have any tips for stopping camp fires on peaty woodland spreading please.

A few years ago round this way there was a big fire in the woods and the cause according to the fire brigade was that the fire was not properly put out or the fire spread underground in the peat. (People camping illegally in F.C woodland)

Where I intend on camping the ground is extremely soft,no problems having fires, I just want to do it properly and not burn the woods down! ]]> Firecraft Bluezephyr http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106925 http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106729&goto=newpost Wed, 24 Apr 2013 12:39:12 GMT I was doing a fire lighting session recently to a couple who run a very environmentally friendly business. I was talking through the firesteel when the question was asked about how one of those impacts the resources of the planet. I had explained that the rods are made from a mix of metals,... I was doing a fire lighting session recently to a couple who run a very environmentally friendly business. I was talking through the firesteel when the question was asked about how one of those impacts the resources of the planet.

I had explained that the rods are made from a mix of metals, which prompted an interesting discussion about all sorts of things and made me think the question through a bit. Here is what I have so far.

According to the makers of the Swedish LMF steel, it is good for 12000 strikes. If we assume that one match equals one firesteel strike then the comparison goes like this:

Average contents of 1 box of Vestas = 85

Therefore to get 12000 strike equivalents you need 12000/85 = 140 boxes of matches.

140 boxes of matches = 1680 grams ( 1 box = 12 grams )

1 LMF steel = 50 grams shipping weight

If you apply a factor of 2 LMF steels fitting the space of 1 matchbox then to ship the same equivalent firepower of matches (Vestas are made in Sweden now from Aspen) from the same departure port takes up 68 times more space and is 34 times heavier ( 1680 / 50 ). Even if you say 1 LMF = 1 matchbox then the numbers are interesting.

To further analyse it, you can get into the sourcing and processing of the sulphur and phosphorous on the matches, along with transporting it to the factory, as well as the processing of the tree from the point it is felled.

The upshot is that a seemingly green process (wooden matches from sustainable forest) still has a hefty footprint when you consider the entire chain from felling to striking.

Maybe I should get out more... ]]> Firecraft Stringmaker http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106729 http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106705&goto=newpost Tue, 23 Apr 2013 21:56:46 GMT Hi all, Just bought me a GoPro3, Silver, filmed in 1080, converted to 720, best viewed in 720, if anyone has pointers on improving the quality of the clip, please tell me! :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=066cuDYTKKA Hi all,

Just bought me a GoPro3, Silver, filmed in 1080, converted to 720, best viewed in 720, if anyone has pointers on improving the quality of the clip, please tell me! :)

]]> Firecraft Ruud http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106705 http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106543&goto=newpost Fri, 19 Apr 2013 12:51:28 GMT I have just cooked up some charcloth for Corso, so I thought I would post some pics of the process. Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8261/8661586754_21edc3c60d.jpg The raw material (see what I did there) was some offcuts of heavy cotton canvas. This was left over from my hat ... I have just cooked up some charcloth for Corso, so I thought I would post some pics of the process.



The raw material (see what I did there) was some offcuts of heavy cotton canvas. This was left over from my hat and was originally a military marquee type tent. I think the important thing here is "natural vegetable-derived materials only". Jeans work well.
The tin is a syrup tin with a small hole in the lid. you also need something to block the hole; I have a piece of wood tapered to fit.



Put the tin on the fire and let it cook until the flamethrower effect has dwindled away. I turn mine over ocasionally, but I am not sure if it is necessary.



Carefully remove the tin from the fire and quickly plug the hole with the stick. (What's that burning smell? It's the stick burning because the tin is still quite hot!) The idea here is to prevent any oxygen getting to the cloth inside the tin so the combustion process is stopped.



Quality control is important. Here is the finished product ready for testing.



First strike; first spark. That'll do! Now you just need to silence the smoke alarm and you're done.


Z ]]> Firecraft Zingmo http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106543