View Full Version : My very own fallkniven A1
Reworked the blade to make it convex, as from factory it would not cut butter so the edge was thick.
Handles and sheath in the same teck bar. Bamboo plug that secures the blade tight, Rafia home made rope (good training to make rope).
http://forums.outdoors-magazine.com/upload/gallery/dsc02856.jpg
http://forums.outdoors-magazine.com/upload/gallery/dsc02852.jpg
http://forums.outdoors-magazine.com/upload/gallery/dsc02864.jpg
http://forums.outdoors-magazine.com/upload/gallery/dsc02863.jpg
Paganwolf
09-11-2005, 17:51
I love the look of that buddy, nice one!
Love it JM.. i have been thinking about this kind of sheath a lot and came up with a few designs in my head.. but the pin idea is much better than anything i have come up with for keeping it sucure!
nice work :You_Rock_
Thanks, roots style ;-)
BTW, crooked knives like the mora ones are great to empty the sheath and handle.
That is very nice.........How did you stick the two pieces of the sheaf together..............Jon
This teck has an history, I saved it from the feet of table that was in my living room and that burnt last year, letting me with a smoked house (wife and candles playing together).
I used a band saw to cut it in two pieces, then I cut these pieces to have a handle and a sheath.
Hollow the handle and sheath, to fit the blade ( this is the part that takes time) then epoxy them back. You can for real solidity add pins (prefer bamboo pins) on the edges, but the epoxy method makes my samples quite good already. (find a way to press the parts together hard)
Before I had a band saw, I found some teck or oak plinths, which did not match so well, but did the job well on other projects.
3 feet left ;-)
Millbilly
09-11-2005, 18:35
Thats really nice mate. I love the fallkniven, but think they can be quite tactical looking. Youve found the perfect solution!
Great job!
Thanks, They are good knives, but really the first series of A1, before they started convexing the edges were bad, they would not cut saucisson, and what is a knife that does not cut saussages for a frenchman ? ;-) I am not sure how many hours on the blade, close to 10, the rest, sheath and handle and cordage went into 6 hours.
That’s absolutely lovely JM :notworthy
Thanks Tony,
I am simplifying the knots. The general trouble with these kind of sheaths is that the suspension is attached at the exact center of gravity, therefore you have to force it to dangle the right way and it needs a few tries to find the right rig. I got it now, fixed the bottom loop at the top, and it makes a nice triangulation, that suspends extremely well with a 30 degree angle from vertical.
But then I could have made a leather loop too, with a khukuri like mount arround the sheath.
Ogri the trog
10-11-2005, 02:06
Nice work JM.
I particularly like the locking pin ;)
A well thought out touch.
Ogri the trog
Excellent work. :)
I am contemplating an "all wood" ensemble for a knife I am having made. Blacksmith friend is willing to produce whatever I want. All i need to do is produce a design sketch. :confused:
This will be only my second knife (I get attached to things and hate change) so am thinking carefully as to what I want. :rolleyes:
What do you guys/gals think?????
Thanks guys,
Here is a picture of the final hanging system:
http://forums.outdoors-magazine.com/upload/gallery/dsc02871.jpg
It is unobtrusive, and as the bottom string sustents the center of gravity, it rotates easily to horizontal when I sit or crouch, and there is no risk because of the pin.
another better picture:
http://forums.outdoors-magazine.com/upload/gallery/dsc02873.jpg
http://forums.outdoors-magazine.com/upload/gallery/dsc02874.jpg
All wood is great, the look is less tactical, more utilitarian, much better than kydex, and I even prefer it to leather sheaths. It is safer (if the wood is good) but marginally heavier (if the wood is hard). But it needs a good retaining mechanism, as the friction fro leather, cordura or kydex is absent. (wood moves with hygrometry, so some space for the blade must be made).
I made a few in the past and my main mistake was to have them of a constant section at the mouth, rendering string or leather attachment by knotting difficult, so I had to nail and glue. This one has a larger mouth than the rest of the sheath (in a very adaptated indonesian style), and a string or a piece of leather can hold it without the need to be nailed or glued, which makes it great for repairs.
:Wow: C'est fantastique!
Thats a wonderful piece of work you've done there :notworthy
Reminds me of a Shira-saya style Japanese blade, epecially with the use of bamboo Mekugi (rods/ holding pins).
That is a lovely job JM:You_Rock_
That is just beautiful JM! Great work!
:notworthy
Danzo
Lovely Knife JM :D Well done :You_Rock_
Thanks, I had a go foraging mushrooms today with it at the belt in thick thorny high bushes, and the cross draw position in the front is brilliant, because as the thing rotates easilly to horizontal, it does not hit the leg when climbing or crouching. The pin works well I am finally happy with this fallkniven! (it is the second time it gets rehandled).
JM,
How do you make sure that the epoxy doesn't leak into the inner part of the sheath?
You don't, but control the layer, you put a very thin layer (I use a flat fexible metal "knife") on both sides, and make sure to insert and remove the knife a good 10 times before the epoxy sets. The knife anyway needs to be sheathed when gluing, to make sure the aligments are functional.
OldJimbo
11-11-2005, 22:56
I'd rate forging in the house being more likely than candles...
Jean-Marc went the whole route of convexing whereas I just Scandied (easier said than done) my A1. From what I've seen in terms of improvement in cutting, there's a whole lot of difference in JM's knife than just being better looking! But it is good looking too!
and his brother, a H1 with a frontier look:
http://forums.outdoors-magazine.com/upload/gallery/dsc02905.jpg