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I recieved my Lapp Puukko today (thanks Jack), and it is brilliant. However, i do want to get rid of that secondary bevel. I tried with a 1000 grit but it took too long, and still was'nt fully gone. Would i need an 800 or something?
Is a secondary bevel just a preference? Or is it generally a hinderence?
Has anyone (gary) had experience with grinding off secondary bevels?
Thanks,
Jake
Don't grind it off, turn it into a convex edge :-D
I did this on my Kellam Wolverine and it made for a durable edge that is still capable of all the fine carving you'd ever need to do
I recieved my Lapp Puukko today (thanks Jack), and it is brilliant. However, i do want to get rid of that secondary bevel. I tried with a 1000 grit but it took too long, and still was'nt fully gone.
Just persevere, it takes time - there's no shortcut.
I have some aluminium oxide oil stones, so i'll try that on my Mora. Just so i can make a mistake on that rather than my puukko.
Don't grind it off, turn it into a convex edge
I did this on my Kellam Wolverine and it made for a durable edge that is still capable of all the fine carving you'd ever need to do
How would i do that, is a convex edge one that bends outwards and would meet in the middle. Less angular?
What are the benefits?
Don't grind it off, turn it into a convex edge
I did this on my Kellam Wolverine and it made for a durable edge that is still capable of all the fine carving you'd ever need to do
How would i do that, is a convex edge one that bends outwards and would meet in the middle. Less angular?
What are the benefits?
The benefits are the same as if you flattened the edge. If you have a really dense material like wood, the problem with a secondary bevel is that you are trying to push a rather blunt wedge through a dense material. If you have a true scandi grind or convex the edge, the resistance is greatly reduced. For things like flesh and other soft material, the effect is a lot less noticeable, but carve the hard stuff and you will see it immediately. Convexing the edge will minimize that little wedge you are trying to force through the dense wood and make woodcraft a lot easier. IMO, of course. :-D
I second what Hoodoo says. i used to thing that a secondary bevel was the mutts youknowwhats :shock: but once i tried a scandi grind on wood I never looked back :-D :-D :-D . It cuts wood like you wouldn't believe. The effect is definitely less noticeable when cutting other materials though.
The scandi grind is a lot easier to maintain in the field too! :-D
I'm not sure what a scandi grind would be like on steels like CPM440V, VG10 or S30V ... I imagine that it would be hellishly difficult to sharpen! :twisted: