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Daniel
12-06-2005, 11:39
Hi,

I'm thinking of reshaping the handle on my Opinel knife, however once done I'm not sure what to use to re-oil it.

The handle is cherrywood. Would Tung oil be suitable for re-oiling once I've reshaped and sanded the handle?

Anyone?

Cheers,
Dan

JimH
14-06-2005, 17:01
Hi,

I'm thinking of reshaping the handle on my Opinel knife, however once done I'm not sure what to use to re-oil it.

The handle is cherrywood. Would Tung oil be suitable for re-oiling once I've reshaped and sanded the handle?

Anyone?

Cheers,
Dan

I use olive oil out of the kitchen, 'cos I'm a cheapskate :D

Linseed oil prolly favourite for wood.

You'll need to sand the varnish off the unmodified bits of handle, too.

Jim.

leon-1
14-06-2005, 17:07
Yes you can use Tung oil, but whether you use tung or linseed oil you will probably have to thin it for the first coats using turps or white spirit so that they soak in better. Only the last coat goes on neat and remeber this is quite a long process, taking days in between coats and normally at least a couple of weeks before either will be ready for use. :)

Daniel
14-06-2005, 19:46
Cheers! When making a spoon for example, before oiling you must run under water and re-sand a few times, so that the grain does not become rough when it gets wet after oiling... Do I need to do this with the opinel handle?

Also, would the handle expand and lock the blade in place when oiling?

Motorbike Man
14-06-2005, 23:40
Cheers! When making a spoon for example, before oiling you must run under water and re-sand a few times, so that the grain does not become rough when it gets wet after oiling... Do I need to do this with the opinel handle?

Also, would the handle expand and lock the blade in place when oiling?
Always a good idea when sanding wood, gives a nice finish. When I'm soaking handles on knives, I use a large hotdog jar with a mix of 1 part white spirits to 2 parts linseed oil. Let it soak over night, take it out to drain the excess back into the jar until the wood looks dry, then re-soak over night. I repeat the process 4 or 5 times and then leave the handle to air dry for a week or so until it cures properly. Then,just to buff it up a bit, a quick coat and polish of finishing wax seems to do the trick. This would all work for an opinel as well. In fact, i have a No.9 floating around somewhere...............

Daniel
15-06-2005, 07:49
Cheers MM, thats great! I give that a go! I suppose you suspend it somehow in the jar so that the blade does not get a soaking? or do you let the blade go in with it?

dtalbot
15-06-2005, 08:59
The advice I was given way back by someone who seemed to know what they were doing, a lifetime of wood working behind them was oil coats should be applied once a day for the first week of an items life, then once a week for the first month, once a month for the first year then once a year for life.
May be belt and braces treatment but it does seem to give things a good lasting finish.

Daniel
15-06-2005, 19:26
I use olive oil out of the kitchen, 'cos I'm a cheapskate :D

Does that actually work? I would think it wouldn't soak in properly?



I use a large hotdog jar with a mix of 1 part white spirits to 2 parts linseed oil

Would this method work with Tung oil instead of linseed oil? (only I already have some of Tung oil and don't want to fork out for some linseed if I can help it) :rolleyes:

Cheers,
Dan

JimH
16-06-2005, 13:19
Does that actually work? I would think it wouldn't soak in properly?

Dan

Seemed to.

Jim.