xavierdoc
24-12-2009, 02:40
I have nearly finished my second crooked knife (using a blade made by Jojo). The first knife was "rustic", this one is more "finished" and has better ergonomics (largely due to the blade design.)
Mark I Svante Djarv bladed knife here. (http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50515)
Mark II is the same wood, so far unoiled.
I asked Jojo for countersunk holes in the tang to allow rivetting, whereas the Svante Djarv knife relies on a 90deg bend at the tip of the tang and mortice fit to fix the blade securely.
New knife is on the left:
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF4538.jpg
I don't have the chisels for it so used hobby knife from Aldi:
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5597.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5599.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5600.jpg
Nearly finished:
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5601.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5603.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5604.jpg
Works well in hand so far:
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5607.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5609.jpg
After reading Robin Woods observations about the shape and use of the handle, I have left enough "spare", rounded handle to reinforce grip with the left hand if working on a piece secured between the legs (be careful!)
I am slightly concerned that the small amount of wood that actually retains/secures the blade may not be enough. I suppose it depends if the rivets are taking the strain.
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5612.jpg
If anyone has tried this style of blade fixation and found it to fail, please let me know and I'll try and reinforce with a spacer and wrap.
Jojo's blade geometry is much better than the (pricier) Svante Djarv. The latter is thicker and more hooked; I think the Jojo blade is going to see more use.
Tips and tricks/observations and advice, gratefully received.
Best wishes all,
Xav
Mark I Svante Djarv bladed knife here. (http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50515)
Mark II is the same wood, so far unoiled.
I asked Jojo for countersunk holes in the tang to allow rivetting, whereas the Svante Djarv knife relies on a 90deg bend at the tip of the tang and mortice fit to fix the blade securely.
New knife is on the left:
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF4538.jpg
I don't have the chisels for it so used hobby knife from Aldi:
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5597.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5599.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5600.jpg
Nearly finished:
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5601.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5603.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5604.jpg
Works well in hand so far:
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5607.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5609.jpg
After reading Robin Woods observations about the shape and use of the handle, I have left enough "spare", rounded handle to reinforce grip with the left hand if working on a piece secured between the legs (be careful!)
I am slightly concerned that the small amount of wood that actually retains/secures the blade may not be enough. I suppose it depends if the rivets are taking the strain.
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/xavierdoc/DSCF5612.jpg
If anyone has tried this style of blade fixation and found it to fail, please let me know and I'll try and reinforce with a spacer and wrap.
Jojo's blade geometry is much better than the (pricier) Svante Djarv. The latter is thicker and more hooked; I think the Jojo blade is going to see more use.
Tips and tricks/observations and advice, gratefully received.
Best wishes all,
Xav