View Full Version : Lauri 95 and Alder burr pic heavy
Here is a knife for the Scandi KITH on BB
So here are some more photos with the sheath.
The blade is a Lauri 95 the wood is Alder burr and the bolster is factory made
the sheath is Alder burr and Lappleather
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s269/alf-branch/Scandikith5.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s269/alf-branch/Scandikith6.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s269/alf-branch/Scandikith4.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s269/alf-branch/Scandikith1.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s269/alf-branch/Scandikith3.jpg
as usual all comments welcome
I dont where or who it is going to yet.
That's a cracker Alf
Somebody's going to be a very happy chappy.
This is a very nice knife, Alf. I am not generally kin on Scandinavian knives, many are too fussy for my taste, but I like this one. Lovely lines and beautiful wood. Lovely sheath too. Very nice :) Thanks for showing it.
Rich and JoJo
Glad you both like it.
Very nice scandi, looks like a right user..:)
Dwardo
Glad you like it and I hope its new owner will use it.
Shes a beauty Alf. Nice one.
Very nice Alf, did you split the sheath and pin?
All the best Alf and a top job you have done on this one.
Very nice I like that a lot
That's superb, especially the sheath. The little wood button is a cool little touch. The Alder root is lovely. Can I ask you if your brass bolster is one of the ones that Brisa sell for Lauri blades and do they fit without much fuss? I don't see the point of hacksawing out brass ovals when you can buy good quality bolsters cheap.
Great work mate!
VtBlackdog
22-09-2009, 23:44
thats a fantastic bit of woodworking
it should live in America, want my address? lol
mr dazzler
23-09-2009, 21:39
Lovely knife. I especially like the custom made wood button on the sheath, and the fine finish of the wood. Beautifuuly photographed too....
Very nice Alf, did you split the sheath and pin?
Split and glued yes but not pinned as I didnt think it was necessary with the leather holding it together and its held on by friction
Can I ask you if your brass bolster is one of the ones that Brisa sell for Lauri blades and do they fit without much fuss? I don't see the point of hacksawing out brass ovals when you can buy good quality bolsters cheap.
I did use a factory bolster as with the shape of the blade they are much easier look HERE (http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73174&highlight=enzo)for a bit of a tutorial.
it should live in America, want my address? lol
It may yet go to America but sadly not to you it may also to Argentina sweden or others I cant remember.
I had free hand as to what I wanted to make and this is what happened.
mr dazzler
31-12-2009, 14:43
Can I ask Alf how you made the wooden part of the sheath? I am working on some like this at the moment in burr elm and elm. I cut the fronts from burr elm and the backs from elm, then sanded them to get good faces then glued them up after making the blade recesses. Did you rip the alder burr in two, then sand the halves, hollow the blade recess then re glue? On mine I get a 2 tone effect. I thought next time I might add a line of inlay or purfling type stuff between the 2 glued halves to disguise it. I guess you will always end up with a "fault line" unless you used wood with very little figure (or antler....:lmao:) Also can I ask how you formed the ridges on the top part of the wood sheath? When you fixed the leather did you press the wet leather in betwen the ridges or does the shrinkage as it dries create a shrink fit?
Cheers Jonathan :)
Johnathan
I will find some info on how I did later but you are about right.
pitta-pitta
31-12-2009, 18:48
Nice work fella
mr dazzler
31-12-2009, 21:37
Johnathan
I will find some info on how I did later but you are about right.
Thanks Alf, I would appreciate that.I am really starting to take an interest in how knives are made. Cheers Jonathan :)
Here are some photos (not mine) I got from a Tutorial a while ago but is no longer availbale
Ass you was split the wood and cut the slot
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s269/alf-branch/The%20Knives%20I%20have%20made/Woodsheathpiece2.jpg
Then glue together and sand into shape and file a some groves to grip the leather. Two groves will do but three were used here for effect.
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s269/alf-branch/The%20Knives%20I%20have%20made/Woodsheathpiece1.jpg
Wet mould the leather onto the wood and push it into the groves I use a piece of a wire caot hanger and just rub along the grove.
This one of mine before dying and attaching the belt loop
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s269/alf-branch/partlyfinishedsheath5-3.jpg
mr dazzler
02-01-2010, 16:16
Thanks for posting these Alf :You_Rock_ On mine I rebated just one side. I used a tiny scaled down depth guage (a block of wood with a screw sticking out the same distance as the depth of the blade) and used it to find the high spots and carved the rebate that way. But it would work doing it on both halves as in these pictures.
Can you use a small block plane to skive the leather near the edge's?
That very nice wood in the last pic looks very like some curly oak I once found among my firewood, it was almost like stringy toffee to look at:) I now wish I hadnt burned it.....
Can you use a small block plane to skive the leather near the edge's?
That very nice wood in the last pic looks very like some curly oak I once found among my firewood, it was almost like stringy toffee to look at:) I now wish I hadnt burned it.....
I used to use a block plane for skiving the edges I got it for £3 in Wilkinsons but I now use one of THESE (http://www.clasohlson.co.uk/Product/Product.aspx?id=142651790)
The Oak is Holm Oak and is nice stuff.
I cut the slot on one side too like this one
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s269/alf-branch/alysheathmaking3.jpg