View Full Version : Felleskap!!
Right then... Who got one? What you gonna do with it?
Mine turned up in perfect condition (unlike some I've heard), It had a slightly hollowground edge where it look like the bevels had been ground on a wheel, but an afternoon with a bench stone soon prouced a lovely flat grind.... and this thing can shave the hairs off my arms after the course stone.... Hate to think what it'll be like after a fine stone/ceramic rod...
Not realy sure what handle material to use... I'm still making a list.
having loads of fun with this :lol:
Ed
Hi
I got one :-D
I thought I was being brave thinking about grinding the spine to sort out the tip. But changeing the bevels from convex to flat grind. It makes sense but now you've got me scared. That idea is going to go ticking around in my empty little head and convince me that I can do it without completely messing up the blade. It's going to end in tears.
Handle material I've ordered some Thuya Burl and some mosaic pins from Brisa, should be here any minute now. B & Q seems to be doing a roaring trade from me at the moment what with me buying rasps and sandpaper, and then "oh I'll be needing a vice", and "I'd better buy a coping saw while I'm here". So far I've avoided the power tools but willpower is failing.
So how many of these are there altogether ? Somehow I'm thinking about a dozen but I can't remember where I read that, maybe I just imagined it.
It will be interesting to see photos of what everyone does with them. I'm really enjoying thinking this through and descideing what to do.
It's kind of ironic that all this time and effort is going into making something that is designed to be taken out to a wood somewhere and beaten with a large stick to make it cut through another piece of wood. It's meant to be used hard. To be kept in a display cabinet seems like no life at all for the Felleskap or any woodlore style knife.
Who was it that said
"Have nothing in your house that you do not know to be useful or believe to be beautiful" William Morriss ??
Sometimes we can have both at the same time. Hopefuly this will be one of those times.
Jon.
It's kind of ironic that all this time and effort is going into making something that is designed to be taken out to a wood somewhere and beaten with a large stick to make it cut through another piece of wood. It's meant to be used hard. To be kept in a display cabinet seems like no life at all for the Felleskap or any woodlore style knife.
Answer is simple - make 2 of em. You can keep one for best, abuse the other and justify the expense of power tools. Then you can get some flat ground O1 bar steel, a Bar-B-Q forge, an anvil and....
Ahhhh.... you see how it starts. ;)
There is an old saying, good luck making your first knife, but dont worry how it turns out, cos it wont be your last. :)
Answer is simple - make 2 of em.
:-D :-D :-D
But changeing the bevels from convex to flat grind.
If it was convex grind I would have left it alone, but it was hollowground (like a cut-throat razor)..... couldn't have that ;-)
Ed
Roving Rich
04-12-2003, 11:49
Sorry Folks, but what the hell are you talking about?
I'am asssuming this is some blank you can buy for turning into knife?
Rich
Keith_Beef
04-12-2003, 12:52
Sorry Folks, but what the hell are you talking about?
I'am asssuming this is some blank you can buy for turning into knife?
Rich
Close. It's not what I'd call a "blank", it is a fully finished, full-tang blade. All you need to do is mount your own slabs on the tang. And maybe hone the blade.
But it's already ground and heat-treated, so at a push, you could even get away with just binding the tang.
Get yourself over to www.BritishBlades.com to find out more.
Keith.
bothyman
04-12-2003, 14:31
Sorry Folks, but what the hell are you talking about?
I'am asssuming this is some blank you can buy for turning into knife?
Rich
I was thinking much the same what is so special about it??.
Could'nt find any pictures of it to decide what the fuss was about??
I presume it is just the inthing to have a bit like the Woodlore Knife??
Roving Rich
04-12-2003, 14:52
Hang on, I think I remember seeing that on the britishblades site, was this someone in northern europe (over there) made a few, got alot of interest and you guys got a bit of a bulk order together to save postage...
Rich
Sorry Folks, but what the hell are you talking about?
I'am asssuming this is some blank you can buy for turning into knife?
Rich
Following a discussion on the forum, one of the BritishBlades members, a Scandinavian bladesmith Trond Pedersen (http://kniv.net/trond/), has forged a series of "bushcraft-esque" blades for us. They are a departure from the traditional Scandi-type blade with a straight top edge and stick tang that Trond usually makes, more like the Alan wood "woodlore" knife. They are hand forged by Trond the viking, and exclusive to BritishBlades....
http://www.britishblades.com/photopost/data/500/179sverdblad.jpg
(trond, the viking bladesmaith, forging a sword in his smithy.)
....with bushcraft as a focus. He's selling them on BritishBlades and many members are using it as a sort of community/forum project. For many, this is their first attempt at making/assembling their own blades. Those who've made knives before are chipping in with advice and help, in some cases materials too. I think Colin is providing leather blanks for the sheaths & has put together a sheath making tutorial (http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1666).
This is what it looks like...
http://www.britishblades.com/pics/trond1.jpg
The choice of handle material is up to the individual, all you get is the blank above. As you can see, it's a similar shape to the woodlore, with the traditional Scandi grind, about the same length, slightly thinner I think (about 0.5mm thinner). The blanks are hardened and tempered and pre-drilled for 1/4" bolts or pins, and a thong hole.
I guess the project has migrated over here too, naturally enough i suppose, as so many are members of both communities.
The initial project was referred to as Tronds Woody, but fearing that this may get us confused with some adult orientated material, we had a poll and the knife was renamed to Felleskap (roughly translated as fellowship or togetherness in Norwegian).
If you are interested, here are some related threads...
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1570
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1675
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1743
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1584
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1745
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1587
Hope that clears up any confusion. ;)
bothyman
04-12-2003, 15:21
Many Thanks Martyn.
Now I am up to speed with this one.
So may I ask what makes a Bushcraft Knife different from the others??.
What is different about the blade??
I am a member of BritishBlades but must admit I did not follow the thread.
Many Thanks Martyn.
Now I am up to speed with this one.
So may I ask what makes a Bushcraft Knife different from the others??.
What is different about the blade??
I am a member of BritishBlades but must admit I did not follow the thread.
Nothing much, it just suits the purpose. The blade is essentially a Scandi blade, but the handle is full tang, so you've less concerns about about strength when whacking the blade with a batton. The scandi blade grind, just happens to be very good a woodwork type tasks. Aside from that, the shape and style is essentially a traditional Scandi knife. The shape of the finished handle, is up to the person who makes it.
Just to add to what Martyn said above.....
I pm'd Trond when the offer was first made and asked him if members of BCUK could take advantage of his offer, I thought there would be alot of interest. But..... as this is his first blade like this (he has made thousands of stick tang blades), he was worried that it may turn out to be useless and would give him a bad reputation as a naff bladesmith. so he made a limited few (numbered) for people to try out/play around with and give him feedback... and he will see where it goes from there.... he even thanked me for having faith in him doing something he had never done before.... very nice man and a lovely blade.
:-)
Ed
OK, Where can I get one and how much are they?
Silas
Roving Rich
04-12-2003, 17:57
Likewise- I guess we've gotta wait until Trond is happy he's made some gooduns.
Rich
email Trond..
trond@kniv.net
Tell him you want a Felleskap and take it from there. ;)
I think they're about €80 Euro's or thereabouts.
bushwacker bob
06-12-2003, 16:20
Thanks for the photo. It made a strange thread into an exellent one! I want to build my own knife,and this is the first blank I've seen that looks like what I've been after! I have some split carvings that are made out of ebony that I was going to slice up for the scales,unless anyone here knows better? To avoid the work,(lack of time,not idleness!)i would happily swap some ebony for a decent 'bushcraft' knife or pukko!
I hate to ask this but why does anyone want a scandi blade with a full tang??
the scandinavians have been using puukko's in the wilderness for an extreamely long time and always use a stick tang
you can hardly argue that they dont know what makes a good knife!
its more than strong enough (the scandinavians are known for using their knives for things we would only do with an axe!) and its lighter in the hand and more comfortable
Trond has never made a full tang before for a good reason, there no point!
only the british and the americans insist on a full tang and in doing so we show our ignorance
i suppose for many it's simply a woodlore clone at a more achievable price. that ray mears bloke seems to have a pretty good idea of what works on a camping trip :shock: :lol: and he's seems to be about the only survival expert who actually uses the knife he designed.
the other factor with a stick tang vs full tang is the question of heat transferal. you don't want to be hanging onto bare metal in the subarctic regions. so a full tang is more of a disadvantage for scandanavian folks than it is for us.
for me personally, i want a full tang, exposed a little at the pommel for splitting wood that's wet on the outside, but maybe dry inside, for firewood. it's easy enough to split short lengths of wood by laying the knife across the spine and batonning. if you don't have a saw to make short lengths, you can stick the point of the knife into the side of the branch and hammer on the pommel, when the knife has pierced the branch, you start hammering down similar to the first method. usually, the wood breaks at a convenient point, and you get alot more wood split for less calories. both techniques are easier if you have three arms. :lol: you could hammer the point through the firewood and into a log, then start beating the wood up the knife. it's a trick i learnt from old jimbo, and one well worth trying out.
i don't always carry an axe, depending on when and where i'm going. i reckon that if a day comes when i really need a fire, i'll be travelling light, and it'll be wet :roll: i once had a jungle survival instructor who's catch phrase was "you can't reasonably expect wood to burn if you haven't split it." bark holds the moisture in too well. you can often see jets of steam and bubbles coming out of the ends of damp wood on a camp fire.
that's one specific reason, i'm sure there's more.
cheers, and
I was interested to read Stewarts post about stick vs full width tang. Surely swords, cavalry sabres etc have a stick tang, and are likely to undergo rather greater forces and stresses during use? I suspect the Scandinavians have been right all along.
I bought a Brusletto laminated stick tang blade and made the handle from curly birch. I'm not good at woodwork, and had to scrap the first handle, but I'm pleased with the second attempt. As it didn't cost much, I've been pretty rough with it, and I've I've not managed to destroy it yet....
Stick or full tang is courses for horses.
The difference is the handle material and quality of work - a stick tang shoved into a predrilled handle (mora classic) that is then used with a baton is liable to split. A full tang with a badly fitted handle rivetted on using poor materials and used with a baton is liable to have one of the scales fall off.
If such happens a stick tang can have the handle replaced simple by forcing it into a prepared piece of wood giving you a replacement handle while a full tang can be repaired by wrapping the tang with rag or some such - one problem here is the broken scale cannot be replaced by you in the field and will probably need machining to repair once back in civilisation too.
As was pointed out if working in cold climates a stick tang is better but having said that in the colder parts of the world you'd probably be wearing gloves anyway.
As I say courses for horses - choice of a knive should be made using experience, knowledge of its intended uses and materials as well as its looks.
Sargey i may have the wrong end of the stick here but are you suggesting that a stick tang is no good for battoning? :-?
Sargey i may have the wrong end of the stick here but are you suggesting that a stick tang is no good for battoning?
nope, not at all.
even your bog basic mora will withstand a fair amount of batoning on the spine or back of the blade. what i was referring to is batoning on the pommel end of the handle. like you would if it was a chisel. if your stick tang was peened over an end cap it might be ok, but if you had a knife where the wood completely enclosed the tang i think the handle could get damaged. whilst you'd still have a blade and tang, i don't think it'd be a great idea.
quite a long time ago a few of us were debating the usefulness of mors kochanski's survival knife toughness test. you baton a knife into a tree and stand on it. the general consensus was that this idea was bunk. i thought it was harsher than it sounded, so i went out to try it. the only knife i had that was up to this test was a chris reeves sable IV, one of his hollow handle one piece range. i chickened out with all the other knives. except a frosts deck knife. which ended up looking like this:
http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/Frostsbrok.jpg
you can see how the handle has been stuffed down the blade. but it took some very serious whacking to get there.
there's loads of info on mora and batonning over at jimbo's place
http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/baton.html
http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/mora2.html
cheers, and
the Lapps and finns use stick tang knives for this type of batoning and the lapps have over come this problem by having a metal cap over the pummel (all finnish and lapp knives have tangs which pass right though the handle)
if you look at the lapp puukko in the reveiw section you can see this
(or if someone explains how you add apicture to a post i'll put one up) :oops:
the frosts deck knife is not a fare representation of a stick tang
the deck knife only has a 2/3 tang!
if you try mors kochanski's test with a well made finnish stick tang knife it will cope with it no problem at all
"Can I post Images?
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clcuckow
09-12-2003, 18:41
back to the original thread I have a Felleskap (F5) blade, its my first crack at making a knife and B&Q and Axminster are getting a lot of trade at the moment. I am using Imbuya and I have made black/brass mosaic pins.
http://www.christopher.cuckow.dsl.pip ex.com/pics/pin.jpg
Like Martyn said I don't think it will knife so its probably going to cost me a packet as one of the things on my list is a double garage so I have somewhere to put the drill press from B&Q last night ;-)
I will still be using my Kellam Wildfinn Puukko so Stuart should still be happy ;-)
if you try mors kochanski's test with a well made finnish stick tang knife it will cope with it no problem at all
stuart, lend me your knife and i'll give it a go! :lol:
have you got a copy of mors' book? i still reckon this test is bunk! what he actually says is hammer a knife 4cm into a tree at ninety degrees to the grain, then stand on the handle. even with the reeves knife i had it in line with the grain. the next problem is hammering. i was using a big old beech baton, with full on double handed swings. then the next question is how much wood do you need to support your weight.
i do not believe that my trusty isakkii jarvenpaa (?sp) puukko would survive this test. seeing how much the reeves knife flexed while supporting my 85 kilos with the blade vertical was frightening enough.
this test is simply a very silly idea, IMO. i have no doubt that a good quality stick tang knife is plenty robust enough for any practical bushcraft demands. i like the idea of having a test to prove a knife is tough enough, i just don't think this is it.
cheers, and.
I was just about to take a Lapp puukko out to the woods and film it being hammered into a tree and being jumped on
If this test is bunk though what would you suggest?
what do other people think of the test?
could somone supply the whole discription of the test?
the only reason I argue in favour of a stick tang is that many people see them as inferior (this may be because they have not used a high quality well made stick tang)
well their not, anything you can do with a well made full tang you can do with a well made stick tang (and by well made stick tang i mean one that passes right though the handle and is burnt in, not just slotted in)
the benifits of a full tang is no bare metal or pins/pin holes and a much lighter knife (the result of this light weight is people thinking they are not strong)
the blacksmiths in finnland have never made a full tang knife, i just wondered why you asked a scandinavian blacksmith to make you a full tang knife when his skill is making stick tang
which would have been perfectly suitable for the task
Just as many in europe laugh and roll their eyes at the size of the cars the americans drive, the scandinavians roll their eyes at us brits and americans with our heavy over the top full tang knives
it was the scandinavians that taught us that we did not need big 6inch bowie style blades and enlightened us to the flat grind yet we do not follow their example with the tang
Ok that is just about the longest post i have ever written
I'll shut up and stop ranting now
:rant: :soapbox: :sword: :aargh4:
:uu:
Dave Barker
10-12-2003, 16:07
the Lapps and finns use stick tang knives for this type of batoning and the lapps have over come this problem by having a metal cap over the pummel (all finnish and lapp knives have tangs which pass right though the handle)
if you look at the lapp puukko in the reveiw section you can see this
(or if someone explains how you add apicture to a post i'll put one up) :oops:
the frosts deck knife is not a fare representation of a stick tang
the deck knife only has a 2/3 tang!
if you try mors kochanski's test with a well made finnish stick tang knife it will cope with it no problem at all
Picture you posted shows a tang that is incredibly wide! Most Scandinavian knives have a tang that is conically shaped and forms a point at the end ( or at least this is how I make them)
This actually means that the tang is fixed both physically and chemically into the shaft and I would doubt very much that the wood would split that easily.
Of course the taste of the pudding ……..
As far as this knife goes, it's just taste, it's what people wanted, so it's what Trond made. There's nothing wrong with either design, but the laps and fins also make knives that way because to some extent, they are locked into tradition. People buy them, because they want a traditional Scandi blade. If they started making Bowies, then they'd loose all their trade, cos there are a gazillion and 1 bowie makers in the rest of the world. At the end of the day, it's commercial enterprise and traditional art which drives em. Scandi blades aren't inherantly better than anything else. You pick the tool for the job you want. The American market is different to the UK. For bushcraft techniques, they are good blades, not necessarily the best though. There are a huge variety of blades on the market that will do quite well.
It wasnt the scandi's who taught us the benefit of their blade shape, it was Ray Mears & his preference for it for the tasks he was doing. But it's not a must have design, it's just one of many options.
But guys please (Martyn dons moderator hat), can you start a split tang v full tang argument thread if ya want to thrash it out further, we've drifted significantly from the original thread topic here.. ;)
have you got a copy of mors' book? i still reckon this test is bunk! what he actually says is hammer a knife 4cm into a tree at ninety degrees to the grain, then stand on the handle.[/quote]
Dosent the wight of the person standing on the handle make any difference????
Come on...
Silas
But guys please (Martyn dons moderator hat), can you start a split tang v full tang argument thread if ya want to thrash it out further, we've drifted significantly from the original thread topic here.. ;)
ok i'll start a new one, taking the liberty to copy and paste a few comments..
cheers, and.
I apologise the stick tang/full tang debate was my fault, sorry for going way off topic
I'll go and sit in the corner :-(
do we have an emoticon for sitting in the corner? :0:
clcuckow
10-01-2004, 00:12
Here we go. Next stop I will have to think about the sheath(another first I have never done any real leatherwork)
http://www.christopher.cuckow.dsl.pip ex.com/pics/Felleskap%20F5.jpg
Comments and suggestions welcome.
Nice work, very nice work. :-D :-D :-D
What sort of wood is that ?
It seems to have gone quiet here on the Felleskap front recently. Is that a good sign or a bad sign ?
How is everyone else is getting on ? Come on guys, talk to us
Jon.
Hello, I’ve just joined this forum. I guess I am kind of responsible for the start of this Felleskap project. It was I who originally asked Trond if he could make me a woodlorish type blade, which he kindly did (mine is trond 01). I made a mistake with my first curly birch slabs so have now used walnut from a 200 year old gun stock. I have made a start on cutting out the slabs. I did have a few hold-ups waiting for a friend to get around to slicing the wood down the middle on his circular saw and the fact that I worked all over Christmas and new year did not give me any time to carry on with my knife.
I have seen the one that Chris has done and it has convinced me all the more that my decision to go with a darker wood was the right choice. I’m looking forward to carrying on with mine.
Regards,
Paul Rowley (Ophidian from BB)
Colin KC
11-01-2004, 11:08
Haven't had a chance to even look at mine (Trond sent mine un-heat treated, as I wanted to get a temperline in there, use elephant ivory for the handle to make a presentation version (which will still be useable, of course) to be auctioned for charity)
It'll be a couple of weeks, but HT should be soon :-)
Working on mine right now. Just been down to B&Q again. I am making some mosaic pins from brass tube. If it is of any help 3 pieces of 2x0.3 tube will fit inside a length of 6X0.5 tube.
The large tube is about £4 and the smaller £1.49. I picked up the very last piece which was bent to hell so I told the checkout girl that it was the last piece and that I could use it but was not happy about it being bent.
They knock £1 off it so only costme 50p, got home easily straitened it out by hand + eye. I only need short lengths so I was laughing.
Regards,
Paul
clcuckow
11-01-2004, 17:19
Jon the wood is Imbuya (cut from a bowl blank from axminster). There are some more pics on BB http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1570&page=3&pp=20
I am half expecting Trond to ask for a Quick-time VR 360 next :wink: But you cannot blame him as I think it is the first time he has done a full rather than a stick tang, and then most of the people who bought one have never made a knife before and his name is on the blade.
Paul "O' Farther of the Felleskap" thanks for persuading Trond to do this blade. I have really enjoyed making my first knife and I am sure it will not be my last or what else will I do with my new drill press, 1 ton vice, bench grinder/belt sander, files etc. I think I will just have to get some sheet metal from somewhere and try at stock removal and then try and find someone to do the HT. But I really should really try to make the sheath first as it is literally razor sharp and not a lot of use it I cannot carry it!
On the sheath front any advice? I was going to try and make a neck sheath with a fire steel holder but the knife is 7 oz and so my be to heavy for a paracord loop.
Hi Chris, What size is that hole for your lanyard? looks large, what size tue did you sleeve it with?
Regards,
Paul
clcuckow
11-01-2004, 19:02
Paul Trond's hole was 10mm but I had a problem getting brass in that size. I ended up with some 18/42" brass tube from a model shop so I drilled the tang out to 11mm.
What do you think of the Sheath :wink: ?
http://www.christopher.cuckow.dsl.pip ex.com/pics/Sheath.jpg
See why I like the large lanyard hole? :lol:
Thanks Chris, The lanyard hole on mine is the same size as the pin holes @ 6mm.
Hey, Chris am I right in thinking you live on merseyside? If so where about? I work in Liverpool.
Regards,
Paul
clcuckow
11-01-2004, 19:33
Newton-le-Willows, North of Warrington, on the way to St. Helen's, on the Cheshire border.
Is that Felleskap wrapped in a curtain ?
Boy are you gonna be in trouble :-D
Jon.
clcuckow
11-01-2004, 22:41
No curtain, something much closer to my heart.
The side of a Chianti box. :wink:
Thanks Chris, I only asked where you live because I seem to remember you making a comment about Merseyside Police carrying Leatherman Waves.
Please can you tell me what size the large tube is that you used for your mosaic pins? I got 3 x 2mm tubes inside a 6mm tube, but you have four....which I guess are 4x 2mm inside an 8mm tube?
Regards, Paul
Keith_Beef
12-01-2004, 15:51
Thanks Chris, I only asked where you live because I seem to remember you making a comment about Merseyside Police carrying Leatherman Waves.
Please can you tell me what size the large tube is that you used for your mosaic pins? I got 3 x 2mm tubes inside a 6mm tube, but you have four....which I guess are 4x 2mm inside an 8mm tube?
Regards, Paul
If you pop over to here:
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1797
you'll find out how to calculate the inside diameter of the large tube, and the outside diameter of the thin tubes.
Keith.
clcuckow
12-01-2004, 18:49
Paul, 1mm(internal) brass tube from B&Q.
Re: Police and Leatherman's I have don't think is standard issue as you don't see all officers with them but I have seen them in Liverpool and St. Helens but if you have one you tend to spot them, it might just be personal kit.
I put the detail about where Newton was because I am from North Lincolnshire and don't know how well people round here the now the town, if I was talking to someone from lincolnshire I would take it for granted that they know where places like Scunthorpe, Brigg, Winterton, Hibaldstow, Louth etc. were. Sorry if I was doting t and crossing i's.
Paul, 1mm(internal) brass tube from B&Q.
Re: Police and Leatherman's I have don't think is standard issue as you don't see all officers with them but I have seen them in Liverpool and St. Helens but if you have one you tend to spot them, it might just be personal kit.
I put the detail about where Newton was because I am from North Lincolnshire and don't know how well people round here the now the town, if I was talking to someone from lincolnshire I would take it for granted that they know where places like Scunthorpe, Brigg, Winterton, Hibaldstow, Louth etc. were. Sorry if I was doting t and crossing i's.
Scunny Boy born n bred myself, where are you from Chris?
clcuckow
12-01-2004, 22:06
Westcliff, near ASDA :lol:
Well I'm a Grimbarian! :twisted:
Well I'm a Grimbarian! :twisted:
SWMBO and my Gran are Cod Heads too. :-D :-D 8-)
:biggthump
One of the guys at work (I'm down in Hatfield) keeps trying to wind me up by saying I'm going to end up filleting fish for the rest of my life! :-)
Keith_Beef
13-01-2004, 22:51
:biggthump
One of the guys at work (I'm down in Hatfield) keeps trying to wind me up by saying I'm going to end up filleting fish for the rest of my life! :-)
The fishmonger's daughter is so cute, when she lays on the slab and says "fillet"...
That just makes me think about the stories I've heard about bored men in fish factories! :nono:
I don't want to know ... I had fish for dinner! :yikes: :nono:
I am half expecting Trond to ask for a Quick-time VR 360 next :wink: But you cannot blame him as I think it is the first time he has done a full rather than a stick tang, and then most of the people who bought one have never made a knife before and his name is on the blade.
I dont understand, please explain to the thick headed blacksmith :)
well it's kinda like this but in reverse! :twisted:
New York's New Year (http://www.panoramas.dk/fullscreen3/f1.html)
Earlier in this thread there was mention made of the pros and cons of stick & full tang blades and why anyone should ever want to ask a Norwegian Knife Maker to produce a full tang blade.
Well as it was I who asked Trond to make a woodloreish blade in the first place I guess I’d better explain.
1. I have only been on the British Blades and Bushcraft forums for a few months.
2. I did not realise that I was committing a knife etiquette crime in asking a Scandi Maker to produce such a blade.
3. I had seen blade blanks available from a few different sources and always fancied making a knife, even if only putting on the handle.
4. I became aware of Trond’s work, checked out his web-site and thought I’ll buy some (stick tang) blade blanks….then though I wonder if he could make me something similar to this Woodlore Knife that there all raving about on B.B. (so I bought both the Felleskap… and a few stick tang blades)
5. Most (if not all) of the fixed blade knives that I have are full tang, and I guess that I never considered a stick tang knife, or the issues of strength.
6. Insulation from the cold is not an issue for me (if its cold I’ll wear gloves).
7. I work in a Herpetarium where the rooms are kept at 28c (to keep the snakes happy) and if I’m overseas it will be Desert or Rainforest conditions.
8. I know what I like in a knife and what works for me.
9. Although I have seen many of the Ray Mears programmes, I was unaware that there was much interest in Bushcraft here in the UK (until I joined the forums).
10. Bushcraft seems to be a cold climate activity?
11. I may not have done any “Bushcraft” per se, BUT I have done plenty of field, research & volunteer work in some very remote areas (Cameroon & Nigeria for example) where I am carrying blades all the time both as working tools and for protection…..generally, I sleep with a fixed blade in my bed or hammock.
12. I have been taught by the local people where to get water, start fires (and keep them going) and other skills that would be called Bushcraft.
13. I don’t have a problem with cross over pieces (look how popular the Americanised Tanto became)….I just hope Trond is not banished for his sins.
I am very pleased with my Felleskap, it is the first knife that I have made (OK, put handle on). I have enjoyed doing it and I hope that everyone else has as much fun.
Earlier in this thread there was mention made of the pros and cons of stick & full tang blades and why anyone should ever want to ask a Norwegian Knife Maker to produce a full tang blade.
2. I did not realise that I was committing a knife etiquette crime in asking a Scandi Maker to produce such a blade.
There's no breach of ettiquete, there is no ettiquete.
A knife maker will make anything you want, within certain limiting factors. Scandinavian makers tend to make pretty homogenous knives that are rooted in centuries of tradition, but that doesnt mean they are unwilling or incapable of other styles. Some of them may be unwilling to diversify, but that would be more likely because of the change in working practice making it more difficult to complete your request within a certain price point. Others, may not be able to complete your request, because of technical difficulties. Stick tangs are generally easier to make than full tangs, not that full tangs are difficult. When looking at the fors & againsts, you have to remember it's largely an academic argument and you shouldn't carry over any implications for ettiquete or any such thing.
It is an absolute fact that a full tang knife is a stronger construction method than a stick tang, to suggest otherwise is ludicrous. The debate is not about which is the stronger construction method (that's a given), it's about whether it makes any difference. Most well constructed stick tangs will take more abuse than you would ever normally throw at a knife, so it real terms, it makes no difference which you choose. The makers and sellers of stick tang knives are very keen to point this out, and do so with passion because it's their business. They just want to make sure people understand that there are no real world practical benefits of one type over the other. It boils down to your personal preference as a consumer.
For me, I like the "built like a tank" sense of confidence you get from a full tang blade, that I know will take an insane amount of unrealistic and OTT abuse. For that reason, they will usually be my first choice. Even though I'm fully aware that in real terms, there is no practical benefit of one style over the other. That's my choice as a consumer. If I want someone to make me a full tang knife, I have no qualms whatsoever about asking for one, whether they are from Scandinavia, America or the moon. It's my money!
Wel, first of all i would like to take the opportunity to thank Crock for giving me the kick in the a** to make a fuller blade. I have beene thinking about making a full tang blade for some time, but just never got the time to make it, cause there was so many orders on stick tang blades. When he askede me to make a "woodloreìsh" blade, I thought id make a blade that was not a copy of woodlore, cause i do not make copys, dont like to make copys of other peoples work, the blade shape, is not a original shape from woodlore, that shape i have made hundreds of blades before. The handle on the other hand, with the guard i had not made before, and i wanted a handle that in my mind looked a litle more designed, than the woodlore wich i find the shape to be a litle to "stiff" I tried to have the lines from the blade continue into the handle, and made the handle a litle more "weak" in the back where the landyard hole is, this to give the knife more balance. If I succeded is not up to me to judge, that is up to all the kind people that bought the blade.
Now, let it be said straight away, that there are several makers in norway, denmark and sweden that makes fuller blades, and there is no banning for making such blades.
And to Martyn, IMH it is not easier to make a stick tang blade, it is a different method, and i can make three stick tangs at the same time as i make one fuller. But, as i wil show in the hammerin, to make a stick tang blade is not easy, the stick tangs that i make are forged, tappered three layers, while the full tang is stock removal. (And i love to forge, and i hate to grind) :lol: