View Full Version : Pedersen knife
Here are a couple of pics of a knife I made using a Trond Pedersen blade.
Blade is 12.5x3.2x0.4mm laminated carbon steel.
Handle is curly birch finished with danish oil.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v54/LJintheUK/beltkit/beltkit4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v54/LJintheUK/beltkit/beltkit5.jpg
TheViking
17-11-2004, 14:40
Look nice, but isn't the handle a tad too small compared to the blade? :?:
Look nice, but isn't the handle a tad too small compared to the blade? :?:
Yes :cry: But the tang was pretty short and thats the longest I could make the handle and still rivet the tang. I don't have huge hands so it fits OK but another cm would have been nice.
Fantastic looking bit of kit that! Excellent!
Thanks for posting photos!
Fantastic looking bit of kit that! Excellent!
Thanks for posting photos!
Thank you very much! :biggthump
I just love scandi blades and curly birch, only thing is I'm already looking at the Brisa website for my next project!
I thought the blade was meant to be long, like a leuku. Nice one though!
Hi, here mine
http://www.knifeforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB42&Number=392168&Forum=All_Forums&Words=&Searchpage=0&Limit=100&Main=392168&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=10128&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post392168
Nice, well done Snufkin :biggthump
Thanks guys.
Nice work Faca, how do you find the knife in use? I've only just finished this one and really haven't had time to play with it yet.
Excellent! I think the handle looks great. Trond makes really nice knives. You should send him a picture for his collection.
Hi it works ok but I worry about edge durability, it seems to cute for strong work as batoming, even it has got some nicks with only ligth chores, perhaps some steel touches on should help.
Enjoy
Dave Barker
18-11-2004, 07:18
Yes :cry: But the tang was pretty short and thats the longest I could make the handle and still rivet the tang. I don't have huge hands so it fits OK but another cm would have been nice.
As long as the tang was around 2/3 of the blade length then normal epoxy would hold on it's own. There is no need whatsoever to rivet the tang, other than for decoration.
if you use a slow cure epoxy thn you have time to make sure that the glue goes all the way to the bottom of the hole.
you can do this by standing the block up and then use a syringe to fill as much blue as possibe. Let it stand for 10 minutes then do the same again. The glue will sink into the hole and eventually the hole will be full.
Usual working time with the slow cure is about 2 hours.
IF you reall want to rivit, then you can drill a few small holes in the tang, and epoxy as normal. The epoxy will go thorugh the holes and creat something called an epoxy pin.
riviting and epoxy on a hidden tang blade is overkill.
Nice knife BTW!
Hi it works ok but I worry about edge durability, it seems to cute for strong work as batoming, even it has got some nicks with only ligth chores, perhaps some steel touches on should help.
Enjoy
The edge Trond grinds is done on a big wheel, so is slightly concave. Once it's been sharpened on a flat stone you should start to get better durability. I'm quite hard on one of my Trond blades and it holds up fine.
Take a look at:
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5634&highlight=hidden+tang+tutorial
for a tutorial on making a hidden tang scandi (which is now one of my wife's prize possessions) from a very similar trond blade. Loads of scandis are hidden tang so no prob with the construction method.
Cheers
David
Take a look at:
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5634&highlight=hidden+tang+tutorial
for a tutorial on making a hidden tang scandi (which is now one of my wife's prize possessions) from a very similar trond blade. Loads of scandis are hidden tang so no prob with the construction method.
Cheers
David
Nice tutorial, I'll have to try that method :biggthump