View Full Version : woodlore knife vs Fallkniven
Carpe_Diem
07-11-2004, 14:16
hi all
Just a quick question re some advice i'm after..
i've currently got a Fallkniven F1 and am considering getting both the H1 and also the Woodlore knife...
The only drawback i have with the F1 is that i find the handle too thin and it doesnt quite fit my hand as well as id like it too.
can anyone tell me whether the handles on the H1 and Woodlore knife are as thin as the F1 or thicker or more "rounder" etc????? I've heard that the H1 has a thicker and more rounded handle....how about the Woodlore????
Any feedback would be much appreciated as well as view/opinions on either of the two knives...
cheers
Jeelan
You will find that the handle on the WS Woodlore is chunkier and more contoured than the handle on the F1. The F1 is a more "multi-purpose" knife than the Woodlore is and I suspect that the handle in designed with using the knife with gloves/mitts in mind. The WS Woodlore handle is a nice, comfortable, natural handle. Having said that, I really do like the F1 too!
The Alan Wood Woodlore has a different handle to the WS Woodlore (slightly different) that makes it even chunkier and more contoured.
hi i have them both and find them both to be very good knive's the woodlore is a flat grind where is the f1 convex i beleive both are very capable knives and find that for bushcraft the woodlore has a slite edge for boaring hole's etc over the f1 but for everything else the f1 is equal but like adi said the woodlore handle is chunkier hope that helps :wave:
I haven't handled the H1 but do have both the F1 and the Alan Wood Woodlore.
The Woodlore has a much thicker and more sculpted handle than the F1; so thick infact that I eventually smoothed out some of the palm swell on the woodlore to get a better fit. It's now the most comfortable knife I own for prolonged use.
I find the squarish edges of the F1 combined with the chequered kraton rubber produces hot spots during heavy carving. I've never experienced this with the Woodlore.
There are many points for debate regarding the Woodlore versus other knives, not least cost but it's the one knife I would keep if I could only have one (perish the thought).
One of the more common comments on the WS Woodlore is that the handle is a little on the smallish side. I think this is only a problem with people who have fairly large hands. It's certainly larger than a red-handled mora handle. The handle also tapers quite a bit back towads the hilt, which some like and some don't. The handle is nicely contoured with no hotspots and I find carving with it very comfortable.
I don't have an F1 so I can't compare it. If you want a bigger handle though, I would consider getting a custom.
Jeelan
Have you thought about taking the handle off your F1 and replacing it with one that fits your hand ?
Much cheaper than buying a new knife and the F1 will mean more to you as you've personalised it.
It would be a fairly straight forward job, and there would be lots of advice both here and on British Blades Forum.
Jon.
ODS will even get a blade blank for you if you want. though you might find yourself wnating to go more into the knife making
ODS will even get a blade blank for you if you want. though you might find yourself wnating to go more into the knife making
Be warned, it is a slippery slope. I thought I was only going to make the one knife ..... :rolmao:
another good site is
http://www.brisa.fi/start3.html
Tutorials and supplies for scandinavian knife making. I've done business with them several times and have always got a fast efficient service
have a look at this costom Fällkniven (http://www.bushcraftuk.net/community/showthread.php?t=3770) made by Tvividr
Carpe_Diem
07-11-2004, 16:39
Thanks for all the responses...
I have considered replacing the handle on the F1 but i'm in Perth, WA and i dont really know where i can get things like slabs etc...i have tapped into the local knifeclub (there's only one) and a few people i've spoken to there seem more interested in selling me their own knives rather than helping me play around with mine.
anyway...i dont want to take the handle on the F1 apart and then not be able to use it....so i'm currently playing around with a Cold Steel Master Hunter that i had..but it's not a full width tang on that. Ive got some local hardwood to play with (jarrah) so we'll see how it goes....
i might have to rely on the expertise on these sorts of forums to help me out if i get stuck.
initially i wanted a dark wood handle, rosewood, african ebony etc but try as i might i can't get any locally.
Secondly i WAS interested in the H1 from a while ago anyway so i thought i'd take this opportunity to buy one or two more knives...use them for a few months and see which one i want to settle with eventually and personalise it from there. I also wanted a custom sheath made so inevitably it means i'll have to send the knife to the eastern states at the very least, maybe even overseas to get the sheath measured and made....
HAving said that though, the price on the woodlore w/maple handle is a little high for me when i compare to what else is out there so i'm having second thoughts as to whether its worth it or not.
Even the H1 is through mail order only so kind of hard to go into a shop and "feel" one in my hands..
thanks for everyone's inputs though..much appreciated.
ta
Jeelan
I remember heinnie haynes have a very good return policy so if you don't like the feel of it you could send it back. I'd asume you loose some on postage costs. I'm not sure about sending the knife all the ay across the world to get a sheath made. There must be someone over in britishblades that might do you one at a fair price. I can give you a number to help track down a company that makes sheaths if you like.
Jeelan. I have never handled a Woodlore knife, so I can't comment on that one. It is also quite a long time since I last handled Fällkniven knives with their original handles, but as far as I remember the H1 has got a slightly larger handle than the F1. I have however handled a lot of the blade blanks available from Fällkniven, and comparing these the H1 is slightly larger than the F1.
Personally I like the H1 slightly more than the F1, not only due to the slightly larger handle, but I also feel that the bladeshape is better for some of the things that I use my knives for.
I may be able to help you with the handle scales/slabs and tips for making your own, it's great fun, and you may become addicted :o): . I do have the dark woods that you mention (rosewood and ebony) etc, but if you rather want me to do a custom job for you, then I will gladly do so too :-P .
bombadil
09-11-2004, 20:32
Ok, Ok.... :roll:
I felt compelled to write this 'cos it seems the subject of the woodlore knife crops up all the time....
I have a Woodlore knife by Alan Wood, and I love it, it's a beauty, but....
The reality is that however good a knife is, it is only as good as it's owner! I also have a number of others, and in all honesty if I had discovered a few of the others first I may well have not bought my woodlore one. It's always discussed because Mr.Mears designed it and it sells because of that, and although it is remarkable in it's own right, it's just a knife, right? Sure, it's sturdy, solid, beautiful to work with and a pleasure to have something hand-crafted by Alan Wood, but my Iisaki Puuko cost a fraction of the price and is every bit as functional.(maybe more, in some respects...?)
People seem to lose themselves in kit talk all the time, and forget why we buy it....if you want my advice, keep it simple unless you want to spend some serious money, Puuko's from various makers are widely available and cheap, and do exactly what you need a knife to do and that is all.......
The people in those far-flung places of the world to whom a knife is a life tool don't care if it's an Alan Wood or an Opinel, as long as it works.....
(That should cause a stir :naughty: )
tenbears10
09-11-2004, 22:19
Jeelan if you need knife making supplies then take Gerd up on his offer or contact Joe (ODS) on british blades His prices are the cheapest anywhere and I'm sure he will deliver to you. it would be a way to get supplies if you can't them in OZ. outdoor supplies (http://66.147.225.206/) he has a new site where you can see the products but it says to contact him if you are outside Europe.
Bill
Jeelan, I have an H1 and have handled the F1, unfortunately I have not handled the woodlore so I cannot give comparison to this, but I like the H1, it is a good solid and above all comfortable knife and like the F1 it is a serious piece of kit.
ChrisKavanaugh
10-11-2004, 03:07
Fallkniven started with the F1. It is a dedicated survival knife and as such had to fullfill several requirements including size limitations ( sitting in a Saab fighter plane is different from a Volvo,) durability ( I may have to push this knife beyond normal use and perhaps not be able to readily sharpen it,) and it has to do numerous tasks reasonably well that oftentimes call for more specialised blades while fitting a large number of hands. My F1 is my second most valued piece of survival kit. That said, for 'bushcraft' I also carry a small puukko, Wetterling axe and bow saw.
OldJimbo
14-11-2004, 01:13
I can post some pics of the handle differences if there's still interest. I really like the H1 handle contours wheras I just haven't gotten used to the F1. The latter feels fine at first, but just isn't too ergonomic for me when used long term. Surprisingly - while I like thinner blades, the thicker (than F1) blade of the H1 is a great favorite.
OldJimbo
14-11-2004, 17:52
Let's see if I can link some pics..
Fist the knives in sheaths - notice the slightly bigger package of the H1.
http://oldjimbo.com/pics/h1pics/f1h1sheaths.jpg
Then the side by side comparison. The thing to notice here is that the F1 handle is slightly longer. Strangely I always find it a little too small, whereas the H1 feels just fine.
http://oldjimbo.com/pics/h1pics/h1f1sideview.jpg
A closeup of the handles with the F1 on the left.
http://oldjimbo.com/pics/h1pics/f1h1sidecu.jpg
The view from the top with the more rounded H1 profile being obvious:
http://oldjimbo.com/pics/h1pics/f1h1top.jpg
Now from the bottom. Naturally the coffee hadn't kicked in and I didn't line them up well - but you get the idea:
http://oldjimbo.com/pics/h1pics/f1h1bottomview.jpg
this is the one I should have got..
http://oldjimbo.com/pics/h1woods.jpg
People say that a thick bladed knife can't cut well, so here's an old shot of the H1 slicing the thinnest cigarette paper made:
http://oldjimbo.com/pics/h1.jpg
No it won't do it without a lot of grindiing - and most of what appear to be scratches on the blade are from the wax in the green buffing compound. As you can see, though, the blade gets a lot of use.
Jimbo,
Have you modified the grind on the F1?, its looks like the same modification I have done on mine, somewhere between a convex & a scandi.
I now have one of the "blade only " versions and have put my own handle on it. I ts one of the new laminated steel versions and is superb (give it a try).
Neil
neil1, thats the knife in the picture of your bushmans pocket? it looks nice, i was wondering what it was.
where do you get the blades from over here? i can't see them on heinnie.
cheers gb
Out of the both I would have to go for Mr Mears woodlore, it is a good all rounder, Splitting logs, carving, skinning, filleting, easy to sharpen, etc, etc, out of all the knives I have had I have not yet found anything else that comes close. And mine does take a hammering. Just got no complaints with it, well done Ray :biggthump
Frogo
OldJimbo
14-11-2004, 21:27
Neil:
Well I started grinding back on the F1.. It's a project in the works...
A few years ago I got a good deal on some Fallknivens through a dealer in Calgary. Eventually I ended up with WM1, F1, H1, A1. The notion was to test out the whole concept of thick blades being necessary - or whether they would work for heavy duty splitting and prying. I did all of that, but some of the techniques are really dangerous and so I held off until I could start to put up video. Now I can and eventually I'll get to it.
The most important issue around here is whittling fuzzy sticks, since if you can't get the fire started, it doesn't matter how much wood you've pried and split. I had to grind back the bevels on the blades to where they would work here. I found myself using the H1 all the time and so never finished the others. I'd want much more acute bevels on them. The H1 is now a real Scandi grind with only a hint of convexing at the edge. With the continuous curve of Scandi grind edge combined with a thickness of blade and tempered tang of the H1 - well a person has about the most optimally designed heavy duty blade possible. The question is whether a person wants such a knife. Strangely, despite being a thin knife and hatchet person, I did...
So that explains why I didn't finish the F1...